Monster elm

Dane H · Post by **Dane H** » August 2nd, 2014, 2:16 pm

Hi guys just wanting some advise my my monster elm, I believe the branches have become too leggy and will need a hard prune now as this warmer weather has started swelling buds, its in a cheap training pot ATM and will be looking to repot next winter,sorry in advance for the large photos, couldn't figure out how to resize...
Let me know your thoughts

Cheers

Andrew Legg · Post by **Andrew Legg** » August 2nd, 2014, 4:19 pm

You are correct mate. It does indeed need a cut back. Probably should have happened about a month ago ideally, before the buds start to swell. It's called winter pruning if you want to do a bit of research about it.

That said, if you want some advice, perhaps take a photo of one pad with a sheet of paper under it so that I can mark it up for you to show you where I'd cut back.

Here's a link to a small elm that I did: viewtopic.php?f=140&t=9055&p=161417&hil ... g+#p161417

Cheers,

Andrew

Post by **kcpoole** » August 2nd, 2014, 5:48 pm

Nice trunk and time to get stuck in while you can see it all.

All downward pointing shoots and branches, Remove or wire to shape.
All upward pointing shoots and branches, Remove or wire to shape.

All junctions with more than 2 shoots, Remove the middle one (s) to leave only 2 shoots or else swelling will be a problem.
Any Straight sections, cut back to just outside a node so it will backshoot and give movement and taper
Any long sections more than 2 nodes with branching, cut back to the second node if close or the first if internode is a bit long.
Any long sections of branching with no taper, Cut back to a suitable node.

Then re-evaluate what is left, and wire and shape for the next growing season.

Ken

treeman · Post by **treeman** » August 2nd, 2014, 6:05 pm

Personally I would go much further than the other guys.
If you want to develop a REALLY top tree ( and this one could be) I would cut back all the branches right back to about a few (3) cm from the trunk.
All new branches should then be wired into possition in summer.
When they have set, defoliate the entire tree and remove the wire.
Cut back all wired growth to 20mm no more. This is what gives taper!!
Remove evrything else unless you want to use it.
Rather than just your standard first second back etc., create many more branches from the trunk.
Repeat the above continously.
Build your branches slowly and you will be able to feast your eyes after a few of years!
Don't keep all the branches on one plane. elms do not grow that way. Some branches should be allowed to go up then out and some down then out. That way you will get real depth.They grow quickly so don't worry about it taking forever..it won't.
Only add 5 cm (at the most) of new growth per season. It will take you 4 years to have something satisfying to look at and after another 4 you can show it.

Thats how I do it anyway

Webos · Post by **Webos** » August 2nd, 2014, 7:21 pm

I have to agree with treeman, but I'd go further again. Your photo from the side shows a much better nebari. I would b starting the whole tree again with a re-style using that nebari. It will be a much better tree in the end.

Rory · Post by **Rory** » August 2nd, 2014, 11:49 pm

I agree with the above posts, but I'd go EVEN further and further, and cut the trunk about 2cm from the base. Then in only a few years, it will look completely ridiculous.

Sorry... I'm not helping am I.

bonsaisensation · Post by **bonsaisensation** » August 3rd, 2014, 9:55 am

hi dane
i like the trunk movement and nebari either from the left or right hand side. the one thing which i think will really improve the look of the tree is the branch angles where they originate from the trunk. personally they either need to have downward angle or upward angle. being horizontal and flat just appeared to be under-developped, like they are still on their way to grow down or grow up. so i guess you need to decide how you want it to be. having said that, there is nothing wrong with the flat way it's been trained. personally i think it will look a lot more graceful and natural if the branch are pulled and wired upward, including the lower branches.

regards

Tien

Guy · Post by **Guy** » August 3rd, 2014, 11:57 am

five things --completely remove the too thick third rh branch and carve a little for smoother taper--completely remove the rh apex--remove or reposition the crossing over root----thread graft roots at the left front area--light prune --

treeman · Post by **treeman** » August 3rd, 2014, 6:07 pm

bonsaibuddyman wrote:
I agree with the above posts, but I'd go EVEN further and further, and cut the trunk about 2cm from the base. Then in only a few years, it will look completely ridiculous.

Dane H · Post by **Dane H** » August 3rd, 2014, 10:10 pm

wow a lot of those things had never occurred to me,thank you for the advise there is certainly a lot to think about,i only got this tree roughly 2 seasons ago,part of a bulk lot from a guy who wasn't interested in his trees anymore,there were some real gems amongst them but they were all chocka's with weeds and seemingly unhealthy(for some my tlc was too little to late)

thanks again guys, time to get busy

AusBonsai

Monster elm

Monster elm

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