Japanese maple repotting

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Japanese maple repotting

Postby Joe.sab » April 12th, 2018, 4:50 pm

Hi guys, i just bought last week about 1 meter long Japanese Maple Was good and healthy, I wanted to thikin the trunk so i plant it in a box With new soil ( bonsai soil) wich I always use ,but I didn’t take all it’s soil out and didn’t cut any roots from it, after two days the leaves Gose like burning from the up of the tree ,is this because wrong time of transportation
Or something else.
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Re: Japanese maple repotting

Postby pebble » April 12th, 2018, 6:19 pm

Maybe post up some photos if you can, it will make it easier for the experts to let you know what is going on


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Re: Japanese maple repotting

Postby shibui » April 12th, 2018, 8:59 pm

I can think of several possibilities:
1. You have moved a tree from a protected, shady nursery into a sunny place at your home. The leaves are not used to sun and all get burnt - nothing to do with the repotting, just a simple case of sunburn. The tree will usually shoot again in a few weeks or next spring.
2. You have damaged the small feeder roots which are the ones that take up water and nutrients. With a few hot days the roots cannot supply enough water to support the leaves. in most cases the tree will grow again in a few weeks or next spring.
3. Slip potting - where the existing root ball is put into a larger container with new mix around it can sometimes cause problems. If the old soil mix is different from the new mix it can be difficult for water to move from one to the other. Even when the new, outside mix is wet the water does not pass easily into the older, compacted mix and the tree will get dry even though you think you are watering well. (the opposite can also happen where the original root ball stays wet because water cannot drain properly into the new mix around it) Depends how badly the tree is affected whether it will survive or die.

I always encourage growers to do a thorough repot and root prune at the first opportunity after buying a new tree. This is to check and sort out any root issues - prune hard if necessary to encourage a better nebari and to see what you have in case you need some even more drastic root work to build a better nebari. Nebari is quite important for maple bonsai. There's no point growing a thick trunk if it has poor nebari so best to focus on roots first. Best time for this severe root work is winter through to bud burst. A thorough repot will also get your tree into the mix you know and trust which can save disappointment when the old mix does not hold water or drain like you are accustomed to.
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Re: Japanese maple repotting

Postby Joe.sab » April 12th, 2018, 10:17 pm

shibui wrote:I can think of several possibilities:
1. You have moved a tree from a protected, shady nursery into a sunny place at your home. The leaves are not used to sun and all get burnt - nothing to do with the repotting, just a simple case of sunburn. The tree will usually shoot again in a few weeks or next spring.
2. You have damaged the small feeder roots which are the ones that take up water and nutrients. With a few hot days the roots cannot supply enough water to support the leaves. in most cases the tree will grow again in a few weeks or next spring.
3. Slip potting - where the existing root ball is put into a larger container with new mix around it can sometimes cause problems. If the old soil mix is different from the new mix it can be difficult for water to move from one to the other. Even when the new, outside mix is wet the water does not pass easily into the older, compacted mix and the tree will get dry even though you think you are watering well. (the opposite can also happen where the original root ball stays wet because water cannot drain properly into the new mix around it) Depends how badly the tree is affected whether it will survive or die.

I always encourage growers to do a thorough repot and root prune at the first opportunity after buying a new tree. This is to check and sort out any root issues - prune hard if necessary to encourage a better nebari and to see what you have in case you need some even more drastic root work to build a better nebari. Nebari is quite important for maple bonsai. There's no point growing a thick trunk if it has poor nebari so best to focus on roots first. Best time for this severe root work is winter through to bud burst. A thorough repot will also get your tree into the mix you know and trust which can save disappointment when the old mix does not hold water or drain like you are accustomed to.


Hi shibui, I’m thinking about the first problem as I got it from shaded area but thought I wouldn’t mind full sun, I give it today seasol and hopefully going to be okay, can I trim the roots and put it back now or wait till winter? I’ll post some photos tomorrow.
Cheers
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Re: Japanese maple repotting

Postby shibui » April 13th, 2018, 5:35 pm

I would normally wait until winter because I know that I can prune roots quite fearlessly at that time.
I suspect that if it has lost most of the leaves it could also be root pruned now but I have not tried that and so cannot recommend attacking it now.
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