golden elm.
- treeman
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golden elm.
This tree is the one I'm enjoying most in winter at the moment however there are 2 main problems with it. (main problems...there are a gazillion minor ones)
Can you spot them?
Can you spot them?
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Last edited by treeman on October 6th, 2016, 3:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mike
- Rory
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Re: golden elm.
You have moss on your trunk.
The upper branches appear too thick and long when compared to the lower branches.
There is too much crap and empty pots to the left and right of the tree.
The pot is too bluish.
Your background sheet is quite dirty.
There is a lot of negative space on the bottom right. Needs some positive space.
There are not enough scars on it so it doesn't look natural.
The crown looks like a bouquet of flowers.
It looks fake because it doesn't have any leaves.
and lastly....the trunk line and movement is spot on, but the growth flows away from the lean.
The upper branches appear too thick and long when compared to the lower branches.
There is too much crap and empty pots to the left and right of the tree.
The pot is too bluish.
Your background sheet is quite dirty.
There is a lot of negative space on the bottom right. Needs some positive space.
There are not enough scars on it so it doesn't look natural.
The crown looks like a bouquet of flowers.
It looks fake because it doesn't have any leaves.
and lastly....the trunk line and movement is spot on, but the growth flows away from the lean.
Rory
I style Bonsai naturally, just as they would appear in the wild.
Central Coast, NSW
Bonsai: Casuarina Leptospermum Banksia Phebalium Baeckea Melalueca Ficus
Growing Australian natives as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=289480#p289480
Buying and repotting Native nursery material: viewtopic.php?f=78&t=30724
Growing tips for Casuarina as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=244995#p244995
How to reduce moss from the trunk without damaging the bark: viewtopic.php?p=295227#p295227
I style Bonsai naturally, just as they would appear in the wild.
Central Coast, NSW
Bonsai: Casuarina Leptospermum Banksia Phebalium Baeckea Melalueca Ficus
Growing Australian natives as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=289480#p289480
Buying and repotting Native nursery material: viewtopic.php?f=78&t=30724
Growing tips for Casuarina as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=244995#p244995
How to reduce moss from the trunk without damaging the bark: viewtopic.php?p=295227#p295227
- Matt S
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Re: golden elm.
The main problem I see is that it's not mine.
Otherwise the negative space takes up about half the height of the tree, not an ideal proportion.
Matt.
Otherwise the negative space takes up about half the height of the tree, not an ideal proportion.
Matt.
- treeman
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Re: golden elm.
but but... wait... slow down..Rory wrote:You have moss on your trunk.
The upper branches appear too thick and long when compared to the lower branches.
There is too much crap and empty pots to the left and right of the tree.
The pot is too bluish.
Your background sheet is quite dirty.
There is a lot of negative space on the bottom right. Needs some positive space.
There are not enough scars on it so it doesn't look natural.
The crown looks like a bouquet of flowers.
It looks fake because it doesn't have any leaves.
and lastly....the trunk line and movement is spot on, but the growth flows away from the lean.
Mike
- treeman
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Re: golden elm.
No. I'm talking about 2 problems which are difficult to fix.
Last edited by treeman on October 6th, 2016, 6:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mike
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Re: golden elm.
Gosh Rory, you certainly let him have it, reading that was like a machine gun going off
One of my favourite trees Mike. To my eye the straight bit between first and second branch. Also not sure if it is the pic angle? is it starting to develope a bit of reverse taper? Having said that I would still make room for it on my bench.
Actually the more I look at it the more you should get rid of it
Cheers
Kirky
One of my favourite trees Mike. To my eye the straight bit between first and second branch. Also not sure if it is the pic angle? is it starting to develope a bit of reverse taper? Having said that I would still make room for it on my bench.
Actually the more I look at it the more you should get rid of it
Cheers
Kirky
Great oaks from little acorns grow.
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Re: golden elm.
Treeman, I don't like trying to find faults with such a nice tree - it seems pointless for a tree of this calibre.treeman wrote:No. I'm talking about 2 problems which are difficult to fix.
And besides, if the "problems" are rule-based then it doesn't really matter anyway - it is the final result which is appreciated, not whether or not the technicals were "bent" getting there.
However, since it is you, the owner, who is asking, I'll give you the two which hit me straight away - and they are IMO difficult to fix.
- Inverse taper.
- Bottom branch - is it a branch, or a trunk? If it is a branch, then it is positioned too low. If it is a 2nd trunk, then it should be positioned towards the rear for depth and perspective. Either way, to me it is very creative, and fits the character of the tree.
I'd leave it alone and enjoy it for the great tree it is.
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Re: golden elm.
Forgive me Mike,
I am far too busy enjoying the tree to spot any faults. Lovely tree.
Cheers
Willow
I am far too busy enjoying the tree to spot any faults. Lovely tree.
Cheers
Willow
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Re: golden elm.
Mike the faults are too many.. I'll take it!!! it is no good for you :p
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- treeman
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Re: golden elm.
Ok so the big issues for me are these.
Problem 1. The crown or apex is no good. Point 1 is way too thick for where it is on the tree. It should by now be more like area 2 in ramification. I need a round crown and to continue ramifying as it is will not lead to that but a pointed one. To fix this is a big problem because I need to cut back quite heavily into this area and find a replacement apex which will set back the development of the tree substantially. It could be a number of years before it catches up with the rest of the tree and may never do so unless I also cut back the other areas so they all end up re-growing evenly. It is a BIG problem and the longer I leave it the worse it will get.
Problem 2. Area 3 has no front branches. This is another big problem because to fix it (which it should be) means grafting at least one and preferably two branches in the front. Point 5 needs one and point 4 had one which died, and a new branch here would also improve the design. To graft new branches there, would mean either growing 2 branches long enough to approach graft, or find a couple of small trees of the same cultivar to use. Just sicking a piece in there will probably fail. (although it's worth a try I guess). So that is another huge problem to overcome.
As for reverse taper forming, this was caused by point 6 which had a long scar (probably from sunburn). Because of the scar there was no pressure build up due to an incomplete circle of cambium. When this are finally heals, there should be rapid thickening. It can also be helped by selected branch removal from the heavier area.
Comments?
Problem 1. The crown or apex is no good. Point 1 is way too thick for where it is on the tree. It should by now be more like area 2 in ramification. I need a round crown and to continue ramifying as it is will not lead to that but a pointed one. To fix this is a big problem because I need to cut back quite heavily into this area and find a replacement apex which will set back the development of the tree substantially. It could be a number of years before it catches up with the rest of the tree and may never do so unless I also cut back the other areas so they all end up re-growing evenly. It is a BIG problem and the longer I leave it the worse it will get.
Problem 2. Area 3 has no front branches. This is another big problem because to fix it (which it should be) means grafting at least one and preferably two branches in the front. Point 5 needs one and point 4 had one which died, and a new branch here would also improve the design. To graft new branches there, would mean either growing 2 branches long enough to approach graft, or find a couple of small trees of the same cultivar to use. Just sicking a piece in there will probably fail. (although it's worth a try I guess). So that is another huge problem to overcome.
As for reverse taper forming, this was caused by point 6 which had a long scar (probably from sunburn). Because of the scar there was no pressure build up due to an incomplete circle of cambium. When this are finally heals, there should be rapid thickening. It can also be helped by selected branch removal from the heavier area.
Comments?
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Mike
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Re: golden elm.
Mike, really like the way you analyse your tree. There is no easy answer for most your points raised, is also clear that things willl probably remain as is or get worse over time (in context of this discussion, is a fantastic tree).
If I were trying to tackle points raised, might consider reducing apex to smaller branch just above arrow 5, then give it 3 - 5 years to balance out. This would address the apex issue, give the framework to develop a rounded crown, might also produce some buds for much needed branches front right.
Double branch lower right over time might swell, would you consider removing perhaps upper back? Would be a shame losing this ramification though.
Suppose this is drastic, but trees do continue to evolve. Interested to see the outcome.
If I were trying to tackle points raised, might consider reducing apex to smaller branch just above arrow 5, then give it 3 - 5 years to balance out. This would address the apex issue, give the framework to develop a rounded crown, might also produce some buds for much needed branches front right.
Double branch lower right over time might swell, would you consider removing perhaps upper back? Would be a shame losing this ramification though.
Suppose this is drastic, but trees do continue to evolve. Interested to see the outcome.
- treeman
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Re: golden elm.
Thanks Craig. I agree with your views. Taking a long term view, I may well have to basically cut very deep and ''start again'' It's frustrating to have to do that. The ''double branches'' are not quite double but they are very close to the trunk. At the moment I'm not overly concerned and I think they give the tree a natural appearance but perhaps at some point one may have to go.CraigM wrote:Mike, really like the way you analyse your tree. There is no easy answer for most your points raised, is also clear that things willl probably remain as is or get worse over time (in context of this discussion, is a fantastic tree).
If I were trying to tackle points raised, might consider reducing apex to smaller branch just above arrow 5, then give it 3 - 5 years to balance out. This would address the apex issue, give the framework to develop a rounded crown, might also produce some buds for much needed branches front right.
Double branch lower right over time might swell, would you consider removing perhaps upper back? Would be a shame losing this ramification though.
Suppose this is drastic, but trees do continue to evolve. Interested to see the outcome.
In short, I will consider anything! I'd rather have one outstanding tree than ten so -so ones.
Mike
- treeman
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Update
So I decided not to cut deeply into the apex but rather remove a little and replace it with a thin weak branch which will hopefully slow down the top??
But the other good news is that a bud has appeared exactly where I wanted it too! (red arrow)
But the other good news is that a bud has appeared exactly where I wanted it too! (red arrow)
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Mike