Innovative ways to get taper

[Akhi]

I dug this juniper( don't know it's ID) last year. Chopped its top off which was at least two meters and planted it in a large pot.
A year has gone by and during that period some 3-4 branches died and instead of keeping them for creating stubs I cut them flush with the trunk (dumb idea).
My idea with this one is to create a large formal upright but haven't done that before.
Generally it has a straight trunk but no taper at all. I was wondering whether I can take out a wedge of wood from the top to say midway and try to fuse the trunk to develop the taper.
Anyone tried this before?

IMG_2021.JPG

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This is how it looks currently



This is what I am thinking of doing?

[Boics]

Yes I've seen this done before and there is a thread where it is documented.
Try searching the forums or I'm sure someone will chime in with a more defined lead for you.

[terryb]

Hi Akhi,

here are a couple of threads using that technique
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3562&hilit=willow+leaf+fig
viewtopic.php?f=58&t=6051

[Akhi]

Thanks guys that is a really good thread I am not as adventurous though just planning to cut to halfway down the tree


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[bonsaibruce]

Greetings from holiday Glasgow, cold and wet summers day,
It appears that you have not looked at or tried to manage the root structure!
There will always look to have no taper if all the roots are covered.
Manage the roots first before you worry about the green.
Never cut off the lowest branch!
Consider a radical bend to a branch for a new apex.
If you are new, join a local club and receive help at a workshop.
Happy bonsai,
Bruce

[Akhi]

Hi Bruce,
Not new to Bonsai but definitely new to Juniper and pines. I only got this last year at which time I had hacked the roots, there was one thick root and pretty much nothing else so I was pleased that it actually survived given junipers I understand from other posts have a tendency to die if their roots are cut drastically
( didn't know it at the time)


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[shibui]

You should still be able to remove the wedge to just halfway down the trunk. The theory is exactly the same. In practical terms it may be a little more difficult to close the gap because you will have 2 fairly thick wedges of hard juniper wood to bend together at the bottom of the wedge which will require a fair bit of force. Hollowing the inside of the trunk at that point may help. You should be able to search for threads covering that technique which is normally used to help bend large branches and trunks.
In my experience when plants are injured they make callus to close the wound. The wounded area often gets thicker so there is a risk that performing this operation could cause inverse taper if the tapered area swells as it heals.
I've also split thick juniper trunks to make bends. Then the whole area is bound up to hold it together while it heals. I assume you're intending the same. The bindings need to stay in place for a year or more as the cuts heal up but in the meantime the trunk is still growing and thickening and mine have usually started to bulge just below and above the bindings. Yours will be wrapped right up to the top so reverse taper above the wrapped area should not be a problem but could be below.

Have you considered dead wood as another option to give taper? Converting part of the trunk to dead wood can give the impression of taper even where there is none. Dead wood is also a common feature of junipers so should fit in well with this tree. If just simple shari doesn't do the job you could carve the dead wood down to really give taper to the remaining trunk.

[Akhi]

Is this the best time to do this just as spring is approaching or wait for full spring growth to kick in?


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[shibui]

the time is right for most procedures whenever I'm ready and have some time. I think now would be a great time to try taking the wedge out. I'd let the tree dry out for a few days beforehand so the remaining pieces will bend a bit easier when you try to pull them together.

If you're talking about making shari I usually try to leave it until the tree is actively growing because the bark strips off cleanly and easily. If you make deadwood in winter you need to scrape off almost every tiny scrap because the bark is stuck tight when the tree is not active.

Photos of the procedure and follow up as it recovers would be awesome.