Excuse my ignorance, but I had a few questions about this species as I recently purchased one.
1) When would be the best time to remove branches?
2) How about repotting?
3) Wiring?
I've been watching a few videos on it and it seems like there are conflicting views on the above questions.
I removed quite a few needles five days ago (as Ryan Neil said in a video "to even out the energy"). Since doing so, the thing is budding like crazy.
Japanese Black Pine Styling
- Newbie.mia
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Re: Japanese Black Pine Styling
Hi, I'm still learning these guys myself but I will share what I have been told about repotting. A member of my local club has been reporting her black pines for years during winter when they are dormant which allows her to bare root them and do wiring toward creating good nebari. As for removing branches spring is when I have done mine at workshops and I choose to wire once the spring growth has slowed. Hope you find this helpful and I'm sure you will get even more info from more experienced members. Mia
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Re: Japanese Black Pine Styling
I've found black pines tend to bleed a lot when sap flow is high through the growing season so I prune heavy branches during Winter.
I root-prune & repot in late August up here but have heard of others who do it in Winter. JBP's are pretty tough so I think there is some leaway when potting & root-pruning.
If you're wiring, wait 4 to 6 weeks after repotting. If the tree hasn't been repotted, wire any time but be careful during the growing season not to let the wire dig in. I've found branches take a long time to set into position so the wire needs to be on for quite a while, you may even need to rewire if it doesn't set before the wire gets too tight.
Hope this helps.
Mal.
I root-prune & repot in late August up here but have heard of others who do it in Winter. JBP's are pretty tough so I think there is some leaway when potting & root-pruning.
If you're wiring, wait 4 to 6 weeks after repotting. If the tree hasn't been repotted, wire any time but be careful during the growing season not to let the wire dig in. I've found branches take a long time to set into position so the wire needs to be on for quite a while, you may even need to rewire if it doesn't set before the wire gets too tight.
Hope this helps.
Mal.
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Re: Japanese Black Pine Styling
Check this out:Daluke wrote:Does anyone know of a seasonal guide online?
https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index. ... h_month%3F
- kcpoole
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Re: Japanese Black Pine Styling
The wiki has great info and lkotsd of links to threads on here
Ken
Ken
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What is Bonsai? http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index.php?title=Bonsai
What should I do now? http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index.php?title=Newbie
How do I grow a Bonsai? http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index. ... _a_Bonsai?
Visit a Bonsai nursery to see some real nice trees http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index. ... _Nurseries
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Re: Japanese Black Pine Styling
I have to say I am extremely confused having read everything I can about JBP.
I want ramification and budding on hardwood in a particular part of my tree (the middle section).
I also want the trunk to thicken.
My take after reading material is that;
In spring, I should de-needle to ensure the sun reaches as much of the tree as it can. This promotes growth of candles.
In summer (at the end of the season), I should decandle everything. This promotes new buds everywhere which is desirable in a juvenile tree.
Energy goes to candles so that the tree grows. By selectively de candling, I'm reducing the chance of budding at cut sites and encouraging the candles not cut to get longer and not ratify.
I want ramification and budding on hardwood in a particular part of my tree (the middle section).
I also want the trunk to thicken.
My take after reading material is that;
In spring, I should de-needle to ensure the sun reaches as much of the tree as it can. This promotes growth of candles.
In summer (at the end of the season), I should decandle everything. This promotes new buds everywhere which is desirable in a juvenile tree.
Energy goes to candles so that the tree grows. By selectively de candling, I'm reducing the chance of budding at cut sites and encouraging the candles not cut to get longer and not ratify.