AusBonsai

No worries Peter,sorry I missed it,looks like you a have plan,very good and good luck.
Anthony

Hi everyone
I'm intending to use a technique that I saw Mauro Stemberger use, in which he cuts a thin channel down the trunk , then use a dremel to hollow out the heartwood. He then places a wire or two inside the channel and wraps it all up, which makes it easier to bend my question is do I make the channel on the inside of the intended bend or the outside, or does it not really matter. Any input would be most welcome
Cheers peterb

Hello Peter,

Interesting Question. Looking forward to the answer.
If you want to bend wood for landscaping purposes, for example garden edging - The cuts are always on the inside of the bend.

Kevin

peterb wrote:Hi everyone
I'm intending to use a technique that I saw Mauro Stemberger use, in which he cuts a thin channel down the trunk , then use a dremel to hollow out the heartwood. He then places a wire or two inside the channel and wraps it all up, which makes it easier to bend my question is do I make the channel on the inside of the intended bend or the outside, or does it not really matter. Any input would be most welcome
Cheers peterb

I would make it on the back of the tree. i did it on this Radiata and have had good sucess
viewtopic.php?f=131&t=7125&hilit=radiata#p93611

the only change would bee to place a strip of timber over the wire to close up the gap and then wire / Raffia over as there is little to stop the wire coming out and leaving a big scar

Ken

Which part of the trunk do you want to bend? How thick is it? I have bent quite a few junipers and I get good results from splitting the trunk into halves (one split)or quarters(two splits), wrapping with raffia, wiring with thickest wire possible, then bending and/or guy wiring. I haven't had a single death occur using this technique and have bent large, hard branches this way. I think channeling is a lot more work for similar results.

Good luck

Adam

Channel must be at the back once the branch it bent, so plan for that when you cut it. If you plan to twist when you bend you don't want it coming into view!

Hi guys
Appreciate the feedback, webos I like your idea because I've never tried the channeling and I'm nervous to try. I've split one trunk and a branch both in the last month . The trunk was 1/2 inch and the branch was 3/4 inch and I made one split. The trunk I want to bend now is 11/2 inch thick (32mm) should I do 2 splits. The place I want to bend is about 100 - 150mm after the first bend I made in the trunk , you'll be able to see the area in the second lot of photos. Appreciate the input
Cheers peterb

Hi Everyone
Just an update on this tree, have done some heavy foliage reduction and created a shari. Just have a question to put out there for some opinions. The smaller trunk that is circled should i jin it or keep it and build a foliage pad in the the circled area. Any input and ideas welcome critiques welcome to that"s how we learn. So far this is my biggest project.
cheers
Peterb

I would reduce that trunk to a jin. Adding extra jin there would fit in well with your new shari.
The exaggerated bends suggests a tree from a harsh climate so I'd be looking for an abbreviated canopy rather than abundant foliage pads.
Looks like there is a branch just above it that could be dropped down to fill any space created if you think it needs something there when that trunk is removed.

Thanks Shibui, that fits in with what I had in mind, just wanted to find out if somebody had any other ideas that I hadn't seen. I've left more foliage than the final image will be as I didn't want to do too much at once.
Cheers
Peterb

Just another question, how hard would it be to graft shimpaku foliage onto this tree. The foliage on the tree is very coarse and I'd read about replacing foliage. How would one go about doing it
Cheers
Peterb

It took me a few years of trials to get a couple of junipers grafted with shimpaku. I found approach grafts were the most reliable but I know that some growers who have experience simply graft scions on to the existing branches.
Here's thread that includes some info and pictures of one I did. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=18163&hilit=+graft+shimpaku
And another one started by Grant Bowie with helpful comments by some really experienced growers. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=12117&hilit=+graft+shimpaku

Hi Shibui
Really appreciate the feedback you give, I have have 2 shimpaku that I want to take cuttings off this winter, is now a good time to do it. When those cuttings have struck and settled down I'm going to attempt approach grafts with them. I really think this tree will look so much better with shimpaku foliage.
Cheers
Peterb

I have successfully struck shimpaku cuttings all through the year. Autumn and spring are probably prime time to get quicker results but they will still root at other times. Winter cuttings are also OK and don't dry out like cuttings in summer but probably won't make many roots before spring/ summer. A few out of each batch will usually root and be ready in a few months but some can sit for more than a year or more before deciding to make some roots.
As with most cuttings, softer wood roots quickest but that only gives us very small cuttings which then take another couple of years to get big enough to use as scions (or anything else). I usually try to root larger cuttings - 20-30 cm long 2-5mm thick young shoots which are then long and large enough to use for grafting or twisting within 12 months after potting up with roots.

really appreciate the willingness to share your time, knowledge and experience Shibui. so helpful to us noobs. Going to take some cuttings this weekend and get them started