AusBonsai

Got some threads going, here is another JBP is bought in the same batch as the other progressions. I actually put the least amount of attention into this tree however I think it deserved more, and here's why:

This is how I found it at the nursery June 2016


It had a decent trunk, vigour and branches, but I didn't pay much attention to it. Of course I fed it and in summer I candle cut.

I didn't take any photos during this process, mainly because I was doing many trees each time and this tree, like I said, I didn't pay much attention to.

When I got back from Japan in June 2017 I went to work, needle pluck, bud selection and wiring.

Finding the exact front was curious and difficult, however it lies spot on between the two first branches. The big shari/scar on the base was forgotten about of the year and so when I found it whilst working on the tree made me ponder weather to make it a feature or encourage its healing.

Recently it was repotted into a stunning Izymiya pot. I absolutely adore this style of pot and from, really understand the wabi sari notion.



Matt

I can only sit and stare in awe!

Beautiful pine and LOVE the pot.
Will be even better as the tree grows.

Pot is too wide and too shallow for this tree to me. Nice pot though!

Jeez, did you buy every pine that he had?


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Why's it too wide, Mike, if you don't mind my asking?

Pot is too wide and too shallow for this tree to me. Nice pot though!

I'm sorry Bunce.

I tend to agree with Mike re. (your beautiful) pot.

I am a big fan of your tree though - going to be a beauty in time.
Got a great craggy look to it.

treeman wrote:Pot is too wide and too shallow for this tree to me. Nice pot though!

no pot is too shallow. horticulturally speaking, yes pots obviously can be too shallow, but visually speaking, no sorry mate.

pot could be another 20% smaller, but considering what is came from.

Matt

Nate.bonsai wrote:Jeez, did you buy every pine that he had?


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I haven't been there for a month or so but I think it's safe to say that he has a couple left...

pot could be another 20% smaller, but considering what is came from

The tree will be 20% wider in time, will it not?

melbrackstone wrote:

pot could be another 20% smaller, but considering what is came from

The tree will be 20% wider in time, will it not?

yeh thats a safe bet

melbrackstone wrote:Why's it too wide, Mike, if you don't mind my asking?

Pot is too wide and too shallow for this tree to me. Nice pot though!

Black pine is a strong masculine tree. It does not look good in a weak feminine pot.

And not just

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=japa ... 20&bih=933

Depth indicates strength and forcefulness. Lower width to depth ratio gives the same feel. Shallowness the opposite.
It's a matter of balance.

Thanks Mike....I thought the hard cornered rectangular pots *were* masculine pots, but if it's shallow like this one it's more feminine, yes?

I'm learning all the time...

melbrackstone wrote:Thanks Mike....I thought the hard cornered rectangular pots *were* masculine pots, but if it's shallow like this one it's more feminine, yes?

I'm learning all the time...

the-beast.jpg

Depth isn't necessarily masculine, typically depth of a pot has a direct correlation to the thickness of a trunk. The rule of thumb (rules in bonsai should be viewed as 'guideline to success; not hard fast rule/laws) is 1.5 x the thickness of the trunk. While this is almost impossible to achieve every time, one thing we can do is use the depth of the pot (how high is is off the ground) to create depth on the horizontal plane. So we can use a very shallow pot to create a sense of a larger area in which the tree exists, regardless of how large the other parameters of the pot is. Which is why we use very shallow, even flat slate rocks, for group platings, because we are trying to represent an entire forest, not just one tree.

The larger the tree, the more focus we place on the immediate surroundings of the tree, and the open field is not as important. for Chuhin size a little more finesse is required, the an intimate size. Considering the size of the pot my tree came from, to the pot it's in now, I agree, its not perfect, and my choice was based more on what I had in my workshop/what was safe for the tree in the coming years of development.

The masculine and feminine aspects of pots are subtle and profound, however all the principles we apply to bonsai have their roots (pardon he pun) in Wabi Sabi. Wabi Sabi is a fascinating thing to study, it gives you a different perspective on the world, not just your bonsai collection. Whats clear in the Wabi Sabi teachings is that nothing is black and white, everything is varying degrees of grey. What some consider tall, other consider short whats masculine is feminine, and what is, is not.

I was said earlier that Black Pine is a masculine tree, said who? and why? because of its bark? its hard needles? I worked on many feminine pines in Japan, and many masculine shimpaku. And pots were chosen based not he features of the tree rather than a hard and fast "this is a masculine species" and vice-versa.

Take the time to consider the future of your tree, listen to how its growing, and take note of what sections are strong, what needs help, and which are helpless (consider jin). Understand weather a tree is going to take on a masculine or feminine role and plan the structure of the tree accordingly. Then, much, much later you have a better indication of what pot to use, and this may change from decade to decade, show to show.

Lesson: There are NO hard and fast rules in Bonsai, only guidelines to success.

Matt