AusBonsai

Hi

One reason the Cedars don't set well is because they are naturally quite flexible. A tree will only set if tissue damage results in scar tissue being formed. Cutting or splitting works for this reason, but the evidence is there for all to see for some time as mentioned because it is on the surface.

With smaller branches, especially on Cedar, often they are not bent enough to create tissue damage. If you bend them as far as you dare, and even compress the branch, your are more likely to create tissue damage. You then bring the branch, or trunk, back to where you want it to be. As the tissue is damaged it will create scar tissue and be more likely to set quiker, but of course will be on the inside and not visible. This is true of all species.

If you have something that never wants to set, this may be the reason. Give it a try.

Tony

Here's another Cedar bonsai. I got this one from Nell Saffin as a seedling, probably 1 or 2 year old - that was about 30 years ago. Photo is from 2007 but not much has changed.
This tree is currently 69 cm high and the trunk is 6.5 cm diameter just above the roots.
It always looks a but 'hairy' and untidy - probably needs more attention to trimming the new buds. I reckon you'd need the small needles of C. atlantica to make a smaller bonsai look good.
In relation to my earlier comment about the first branch on Fred's tree - the first branch on my tree is 16 cm from the ground and always looks abit low to me so unless you are growing a small bonsai any branches lower than about 15 cm will probably not be part of the final tree.

here is one of my cedars ,I have had this one for about 15 years one of my first trees after moving to tassie
i got it at the Tasmanian bonsai center as a trainer and put it straight into a pot has not thickened very much but has developed some good pads
could do with some time wiring

Tony Bebb wrote:Hi

One reason the Cedars don't set well is because they are naturally quite flexible. A tree will only set if tissue damage results in scar tissue being formed. Cutting or splitting works for this reason, but the evidence is there for all to see for some time as mentioned because it is on the surface.

With smaller branches, especially on Cedar, often they are not bent enough to create tissue damage. If you bend them as far as you dare, and even compress the branch, your are more likely to create tissue damage. You then bring the branch, or trunk, back to where you want it to be. As the tissue is damaged it will create scar tissue and be more likely to set quiker, but of course will be on the inside and not visible. This is true of all species.

If you have something that never wants to set, this may be the reason. Give it a try.

Tony

excellent advice/information, that i will be using/trying, on my libani trees.... learning more everyday..cheers..joe

Does this specie generally not do so well in hotter weather ??

Mine seems to have the perkiness and shine it did in winter compared to now.

Just picked this up from the nursery! Anyone got any good techniques for thickening?

btw

If you put it in the ground and feed well they will thicken well. I grew one in the ground for two years only before I put it in a growing pot. I was lucky that our property at that time was on an old chicken farm.
It grew from a little finger size cutting to about a 10cm circumference base in those two years.
lynette

I forgot to say to the person that asked about the hot weather. I have several deodars that grow very well in Coffs Harbour. A hot and humid climate in summer.
Lynette

Lynette wrote:If you put it in the ground and feed well they will thicken well. I grew one in the ground for two years only before I put it in a growing pot. I was lucky that our property at that time was on an old chicken farm.
It grew from a little finger size cutting to about a 10cm circumference base in those two years.
lynette

That's great! thanks for the help i will get on that.

Just a couple of questions...

1. what type of fertiliser/how much should I use?

2. Should I wait until next Winter before I place it in the ground?

3.While it's in the ground should I prune at all??

Thanks again

Here my little one. Bought it about 10years ago at Tim's garden. Slowly grown from a tiny starter..

mykal85bonsai wrote:Here my little one. Bought it about 10years ago at Tim's garden. Slowly grown from a tiny starter..

Did you mean to post a photo here?

Heres a seedling i got from from bunnings
planning on putting it in a grow box next month unless there is a better time to repot ?

Matthew wrote:my large one just over 1 metre tall formal upright. over 30 years old.i have other pics of it alone but do you think i can find them

rsz_anzac_2011_2.jpg

close to 8 years on, can we have an update of your collection

plantmanky wrote: ↑June 24th, 2011, 4:39 pm I would do some preliminary cutting back of those long lanky branches to begin the ramification process right away.

Very interesting. I have some cedars growing in the ground, but I was advised to let the branches grow long to thicken the trunk faster.

Matthew wrote: ↑June 25th, 2011, 10:42 am my large one just over 1 metre tall formal upright. over 30 years old.i have other pics of it alone but do you think i can find them

rsz_anzac_2011_2.jpg

Update of this cedar earier in the year . It has actually trunk thickened abit since 2011 and branches have become more dense . This tree is currently about to undergo a large restyle in the coming weeks .



rsz_ginko.jpg