AusBonsai

P.Mume can be easy to work with once their growth patterns are understood.

After the initial growth burst cut back to four nodes in spring once hardened off. they will not grow for a while but late spring they should put our a second flush of growth if the tree is healthy. Let this extend until growth stops then cut back in late summer. this will help leaf buds form and also keep the shape of the tree for when ti flowers the next winter.

The hardest part of training P.Mume is getting leaf buds where you want them. If you cut a branhc back it can be easy to cut off all the leaf buds which will then cause the branch to die back.

On healthy plants you will get advantagious buds growing at the base of last years branches. These are good for regrowing a branhc you dont liek but if you want to keep the existing branch (and if their are leaf buds on it) remove these buds or they will sap the stregnth from the existing branhc and cos it to wither.

I foudn the easiest way for P.Mume it to let ti grow out fo shape for a few years and get some age into the basci brach structure. then cut back hard which will stimulate a lot of back budding. This back budded growth i then replace each year with advantagious buds. I keep the shape and dont have to stress about leaf buds on last years growth etc

if this doesnt make sense(sorry, writing it at work hehe) or you want more info just say the word. happy to help

another tip is to take it our of the bonsai pot after flowering and plant in a large growth pot. Once the roots can extend it will put out a big flush of growth. I do this every two years with mien to ensure vigor

astroboy76 wrote:P.Mume can be easy to work with once their growth patterns are understood.

Much thanks - while there's a bunch of writing on maples and pines finding info on stonefruit has been unsuccessful

i got most of my knowledge from international bonsai magazines. although these helped, the differences in climates etc made it useful as only a guide. I have had four years experience with P.Mume and many other prunus as they are primarily all i work on. so this has been the biggest way i have obtained knowledge

Thanks Astro! I appreciate your advice mate.

Regards,
Steven

You might find this helpful

http://peterteabonsai.wordpress.com/201 ... um-basics/

Great link Astro, thanks

Bump!

Hi Steven, how did you go with this tree last season? Did you get a second lot of grow after pruning? Do you have any new photo's? Is it flowering yet? I have a few prunus and one (A plum of unknown type) has come out with flowers already which I wasn't expecting as they are on fresh growth...

Hi Ninegrain,

I followed Astroboy's technique and actually got three growth spurts.
This Apricot flowers in July each year. Not many flowers but they are pretty. Unfortunately it was raining lots so I didn't get any photo's of it in flower.
I removed the wire and repotted a couple of weeks ago and took the following picture. Looks like I should have potted it slightly more to the right. I'll need to reapply some wire again too.
Thanks for your interest.

Regards,
Steven

astroboy76 wrote:P.Mume can be easy to work with once their growth patterns are understood.
<snip>
I found the easiest way for P.Mume it to let ti grow out fo shape for a few years and get some age into the basci brach structure. then cut back hard which will stimulate a lot of back budding. This back budded growth i then replace each year with advantagious buds. I keep the shape and dont have to stress about leaf buds on last years growth etc

Ok, so having done the "four bud" thing last year and now have back buds etc - can I cut back to two or three shoots/shooting buds now?

Normally the Japanese teach prune back and keep the top shoot and wire down....Naka did the opposite...On Prunus species it is advisable to prune to a bottom shoot and wire it up...
That is all I know and that they rot very well.
Nice tree!

hi stephen,

glad it ramified well for you. unfortunately it is always a choice between branches or flowers in the developing stage. once u have the ramification you like you can then focus on flower production

thoglette,

you can always cut back to growing shoots. the danger can sometimes lie if you cut back below shoots or leaf buds.

astroboy76 wrote:you can always cut back to growing shoots. the danger can sometimes lie if you cut back below shoots or leaf buds.

Thanks - pruning this weekend!