Fongarid V Anti Rot

[63pmp]

Pythium and Phytophthora root rots in ornamental crops.

Not quite sure what your point is here, I guess I missed something amidst the coin collecting posts.

Paul

[Pup]

G,day Jarryd you should be able to get Mancozeb from any of the good hardware places like Mitre 10 or the other one or any good nursery.

Just remember not the plus one as it has oil mixed and that is not good for conifers. You can also try any copper sulphide fungicide. For the Phoma if that is what you have.

Cheers Pup

[paddles]

I have heard, that Camomile tea (as in you water with it, not drink it) is good for fungal disease. (as in preventing it) I don't know if it will stop it once you have it tho. I've used it on seedlings to prevent damping off, and it appeared to be successfull.....


worth a go....

[NBPCA]

Phosphorous Acid (Phosacid) has been around a long time (according to my mate Ric) and went off the retail market a long time ago as it wasn't patentable and there wasn't a lot of profit in it.
Its hardly new and has been available in commercial quantities for the last 20 years that I know of. It is now back in retail packs.

I have used Fongarid and have credited it with saving a few trees, plus repots of course when necessary. So did the repot save the tree, the Fongarid, the extra attention, the new mix etc? The Scots Pine back from the dead is doing fine and only had Fongarid used on it..

I purchased some retail Yates Anti Rot about 10 days ago and used it as both a drench and a spray on a few items. I will let you know. Ric swears by it!

Grant

Thanks Grant I was hoping we could hear from you on this as I knew you used fongarid. If anti rot does the job it will be great being non-toxic

I found my container of Agri-Fos 600 and the instructions at home.

Active constituent 600g/L Phosphoous(Phosphonic)Acid present as mono and di Potassium Phosphonate. It is a group Y Fungicide.(Important if you want to vary the group of Fungicides you use to decrease resistance to one and get a better kill with the other group)

I used this for many years as a preventative spray in my nursery when,on occasions , I thought there was a problem with a certain crop. Weather was variable where I lived. One weekend we had 300ml of rain and other times it would not rain for 30 or 40 days. Temps varied from minus 2 up to 45 dgrees on a few occasions. It is of course diificult to have the perfect watering, potting mix, sun, shade regime for all plants so sometimes chemicals are used.

If there was a problem with a particular bonsai or major nursery piece even after preventative treatment I would use Fongarid as a drench and always had good results. Fongarid is also used for Pythium and Phytophthora and it cured most trees and problems. It is also a systemic Fungicide.

Now that the Phosphorous acid is available in retail packs I would recommend using it as a first call/preventative and Fogarid if the problem persists. If that doesn't fix it there are other fungicides in the commercial range but they are very expensive and very nasty.

Anti Rot is listed as Phosacid 200g/l Phosphorous Acid as mono di potassium Phosphite.
My guess it is at retail strength.

Grant

[Ash]

In refute to the 'Fongarid is useless' claim- I have used Fongarid on tassel ferns and bonsai and have observed positive results when it was used as directed and specifically for killing off Pythium. If you are unsure of what the symptoms look like Pythium appears in root tips and at the stem surface and can be ID'd by sending a sample (and payment) to a plant pathologist. Symptomatically it appears as a soft stem and soft root rot.

Fongarid is an expensive product and I have frequently observed nurserymen and gardeners using a weak (and positively useless) solution of it to save money. It is a false economy and this ineffective application may be the source of mistrust of the product. As sold Fongarid often comes in 2 g sachets and it is one sachet per 2 L of water, there only a handfull of sachets per box. You DRENCH the plant. It takes a couple of boxes to get through my dozen bonsai.

Furthermore the rot may have misdiagnosed in the first place. There are a lot of other rotting microbes, Fusarium, Phoma and Colletotrichum and a whole swag of bacteria (we need Plantibiotics) that turn up in the nursery trade. Also mites, heat stress, fertilizer burn etc. may symptomatically appear like a rot. Also check for Bradysia flies which are called fungus gnats. The larvae of these little bastards chew root tips and spread disease. They are evil incarnate. Can be reduced with Gnatnem nematodes or parasitic mites from a Biological control supplies or Scotts Crown.

Other usefull fungicides I have tried in the nursery are Benlate (now deceased but specific for Fusarium), Ridomil, Banrot and Zyban were good at controlling or preventing specific microbial diseases.

And use a condom!

regards
Ash

[NBPCA]

One thing I liked about Fongarid was that it was in a premeasured packet which made it easy to gauge what you needed for a small job and not having to make up too much material. It did make it a few dollars for each drench but a valuable tree is worth it.

Banrot was effective but very expensive ($100s of dollars) per container and you should be very carefull for yourself.

Grant

[Mojo Moyogi]

The only down side of Anti Rot is that it does not work as a dormant spray so I am still looking for a great non-toxic dormant fungicide.

Brett, why not a multi pronged attack to assist with your multi fungal infested trees.

This season: Only water when your trees start to become dry. No feeding sick trees. Isolate infected trees. Religiously disinfect your tools between trees, whether they are healthy or not. No defoliation. Don't water foliage on deciduous trees (rinse the dust off healthy foliage every now and then if you must) this includes foliar feeding. Avoid watering deciduous trees in the evening or night (yes I know that you have to during hot spells, windy nights etc.), don't go mucking about with roots - hold off until repotting time.
In general leave your trees alone, from what you have shown us most of the affected tissue is either sacrificial or can be replaced.

Dormancy: Lime Sulphur deciduous trees at leaf fall, mid winter and bud swell. Bye bye spider mites and aphids as well, at least at the start of the growing season, which is a bonus. Dilute as directed and prevent overspray from entering soil or getting onto bonsai pots.

Next season and beyond: Free draining, moisture retentive soil. Air circulation around your trees, under pots. Plenty of sunshine early in the season until the weather becomes hot and or windy and threatens to burn foliage. Protect roots - don't allow surface roots to become sunburnt.

There are probably a few other cultural measures that you could try as well, but I think I have pointed out the main ones.

Good luck.

Cheers
Mojo Moyogi

[Mojo Moyogi]

I have heard, that Camomile tea (as in you water with it, not drink it) is good for fungal disease. (as in preventing it) I don't know if it will stop it once you have it tho. I've used it on seedlings to prevent damping off, and it appeared to be successfull.....


worth a go....

That's great paddles, I find the stuff unpalateable (a bit like a mouth full of dirt), I'll be sure to try it as an organic fungicide.

Cheers
Mojo

[Bretts]

Thanks for all the comments Everyone. Being non-toxic lets hope Anti Rot does what we hope. Seems Fongarid isn't that toxic either.
Another one I tried this year was Triforine It is also a Systemic Fungicide it is a bit more toxic than Fongarid but still on the lower scale. Harmful to unborn babies and liver damage from long term exposure.
Not sure if it works for roots?
For systemic control of black spot, powdery mildew and rust on all types of roses.
Did not seem to help me much but sounds like a killer
Triforine is a systemic fungicide which is absorbed into the sap stream of the rose, where it destroys any fungal infection.

Acts as both a preventative and a curative, destroying diseases already in the plant and preventing diseases from entering the plant.

Anyone tried Triforine?