2015 Native Symposium Photos

[Gerard]

33. Eucalyptus camalulensis
River red gum
History: This tree was collected from the shores of a lake 12 years ago. The tree has adapted well to pot culture and growth is very prolific. The scar at the front is a result of the removal of the main leader many years ago. It has been blackened to simulate fire damage.
Horticulture: Providing the tree is kept moist, growth is prolific. Pinching almost daily is required to keep the internodal distance short.
Full defoliation is carried out yearly to increase ramification and reduce leaf size.
The lower branches are not as strongly growing as the top branches so defoliation of just the upper branches is a practice that I might follow in the future. However, this is a bit tricky as, like many Eucalypts, the leaves tend to be renewed every 12 to 18 months.
The tree is very flexible, even large branches so wiring is very effective.

[Gerard]

34. Eucalyptus regnans
Mountain ash

native symposium 2015 34 eucalyptus regnans (mountain ash).jpg

History: This tree was collected as a seedling 30 years ago. The dead wood at the front is a result of the original top dying. The tree was reshaped six years ago and with pinching and pruning the shape is maintained. Being so apically dominant, this is a challenge.
Horticulture: The tree is now quite tolerant of root pruning, which is usually done in early summer, and does not miss a beat. Wiring is used to move branches around but never below the horizontal. The tree sheds some bark annually but greater amounts seem to be shed every two years. Repotting while the bark is shedding does not seem to be a problem. The tree likes to be kept moist, but in strong hot winds the fresh green foliage does burn a bit.

[Gerard]

35. Lagarostrobus franklinii
Huon pine

native symposium 2015 35 lagarostrobus franklinii (Huon pine).jpg

History: This tree was purchased as raw 30 to 35 year old stock 18 months ago.
The tree was used in a demonstration where of 60% of the foliage was removed. It was fully wired, removed from its 40cm black nursery pot, had 2/3 of its roots removed and potted in a bonsai pot. This all occurred in December 2013. The tree responded magnificently, putting lie to the fact that they are sensitive and should only be repotted in the cooler months.
Horticulture: The tree receives only morning sun and is kept moist. The wiring practice followed is to wire the branches up to allow the natural weeping ends to hang down. A once a year trim of any excessively long new shoots is all that has been required. No pest problems have been encountered so far.

[Gerard]

36. Acacia baileyana
Cootamundra wattle

native symposium 2015 36 acacia baileyana (Cootamundra wattle).jpg

History: The tree began life as a chance seedling in a pot that contained a massive Trident maple. For 19 years, the seedling competed for limited resources with the maple suffering the occasional cut back when it got in the way. Two years ago, the Trident maple was repotted and the wattle was rudely extricated from amongst the Trident maple roots. Remarkably, with no soil remaining around the very few roots, the tree survived. It has grown vigorously since then.
Horticulture: This tree, like most native species once they are grown in pots, is very thirsty. The branches are quite brittle so wiring has been used only to make subtle changes in direction of the branches.
Budding back on bare wood is unreliable but can happen as exemplified by the back branch which is 18 months old.
Growth is rapid and constant cutting back is required.
Repotting is quite easy now that a fibrous root system has developed. So far the only pest I have observed is Spittle Bug.

[Gerard]

37. Allocasuarina torulosa
Rose sheoke

native symposium 2015 37 allocasuarina torulosa (rose sheoke).jpg

History: This tree was purchased nursery stock in a 20cm black plastic pot about 22 years ago. It was potted in a grow box for two years and allowed to grow freely. It was then put in the current bonsai pot, had all its branches removed and has been developed ever since.
Horticulture: The tree is repotted about every three to four years. The needle like foliage is shortened by just pulling off the ends, definitely not cutting. The real feature is the rough bark, occasionally birds try to pull it off.
Wiring can be problematical. Occasionally some small wired branches just die. This does not seem to bother branches over about 6mm. It is moderately thirsty.

[Gerard]

38. Kunzea ericoides
Burgan

native symposium 2015 38 kunzea ericoides (burgan).jpg

History: This tree was collected about 10 years ago and was purchased by the current owner four years ago. The tree was then restyled. Both trunks were shortened and the old back was made the new front. I think the tree suits the unusual free-form pot.
Horticulture: Root pruning is not a problem and can be done at any time, but usually in early summer. Wiring is effective but with thicker branches, over 5mm, bending might have to be done over several days. Occasionally, I have had a branch start to die when the wire has cut in too deeply, this does not appear to happen all the time. If you take the wire off in time the branch usually recovers. This is a very thirsty plant, particularly in this shallow pot. If I let the branches extend the plant flowers well.

[Gerard]

39. Banksia serrata
Old man banksia

native symposium 2015 39 banksia serrata (old man banksia).jpg

History: This tree has been grown from nursery stock purchased about 30 years ago. It has always been shaped in a very traditional informal upright style. The tree has been progressively potted into larger pots to accommodate the increase in trunk girth.
Horticulture: If repotting is not done every two years it can be difficult to water the plant sufficiently as it develops a very fibrous root system. Only low phosphorous fertilisers are used. Pruning and trimming are carried out as necessary to maintain shape. I don’t usually let flowers develop because they have the effect of thickening the ends of the branches too much.

[Gerard]

40. Melaleuca stypheloides
Prickly paperbark

native symposium 2015 40 melaleuca stypheloides (prickly paperbark).jpg

History: This tree was originally styled in the early 1980’s. A number of the original trunks died and the tree fell into poor health. In 2013, after purchasing the plant, I concentrated on restoring the health of the tree. In 2014 the current styling was conceived. This involved a thorough wiring, change of planting angle, and potting into the freeform pot you see today.
Horticulture: The tree grows in full sun and requires a lot of water. Trimming and pruning is focused on developing the foliage pads which have developed remarkably in the last 12 months. Budding back on old wood occurs if the branches are cut back hard. Wiring and bending of thicker branches is difficult but with patience the desired positions are achieved. The roots are very vigorous thus the tree has required annual repotting

[Gerard]

41. Corymbia ficifolia
Flowering gum

native symposium 2015 41 corymbia ficifolia (flowering gum).jpg

History: The tree was purchased as an eight year old, partially-trained tree in 2012. The current styling was started in early 2013, at which time it was potted into the pot you see today.
Horticulture: Potting is usually done over the summer months and providing good after care is given no problems arise.
Wiring is done to manipulate the branches but not below the horizontal. The branches thicken quickly so the wire can cut in quickly if not removed in time.
The tree flowers regularly and is cut back to shape after flowering.
The tree likes to be kept moist over summer and is grown in full sun.

[Jan]

Thank you; I've really enjoyed seeing these.

Jan.

[shibui]

For all of you who did not see these trees in person the photos don't give a true impression of the trees.
The majority of trees in the display were LARGE - most around 1m tall and quite a few even bigger.

A great range of species and some absolutely brilliant bonsai, all Aussie natives

[EdwardH]

These trees are a testimony to peoples ingenuity to stretch the known boundaries of what can be done. The majority of them were started when most people still believed that Aussie natives couldn't be used for bonsai. Well done - there are some real gems in this collection.

[Ryceman3]

26. Leucopogon parviflorus
Coast beard heath

native symposium 2015 26 leucopogan parviflorus (coastal bearded heath) - Copy.jpg

History: This tree was collected from the wild about 20 years ago when it was a much smaller plant. Large plants are difficult to dig and keep alive. It has been grown as a bonsai since collection but underwent a major restyling about five years ago to produce the current shape.
Horticulture: Once in pots, quite aggressive root pruning is possible. The growth habit is to produce many upright shoots. Selecting and wiring some of these has produced the current shape. Constant pinching is used to maintain the shape. Small white heath-like flowers are produced profusely in spring followed by white edible berries. It needs to be kept moist.

Love this species... Just love it and was happy to see such a great one in the bark - very impressive development. Not sure who owns this but it is brilliant.
The whole exhibition at the symposium was incredible, blew my mind! Good job on photos/editorial Gerard

[Gerard]

42. Banksia integrifolia
Coastal banksia

native symposium 2015 42 banksia integrifolia (coastal banksia).jpg

History: After being ground grown for three years the tree was purchased from the previous owner in 2013. In December of 2013, the tree was reshaped and potted into its current pot.
Horticulture: Training has focussed on improving ramification by letting the branches extend then cutting back to force more branching.
It grows in full sun and requires ample water. Low phosphorous fertilisers are used.

[Gerard]

43. Acacia cardiophylla
Golden lace wattle

native symposium 2015 43 acacia cardiophylla (golden lace wattle).jpg

History: This tree began as nursery stock over 40 years ago. The tree was acquired in fairly poor health by the current owner in 2012. After recovering vigour, a major reshaping which involved removal of a number of major branches was done in late 2012.
Horticulture: In the past this tree lost vigour due to infrequent repotting. The roots are very vigorous so repotting needs to be done at least every two years, but preferably annually. After flowering, which is very profuse, a very heavy cut back is required otherwise internal branches and buds are lost. Wiring is seldom used in shaping due to the brittleness of the branches. Clip and grow is the preferred method of shaping.