How to create randomness by following a strict routine.

[Grant Bowie]

43 years is a lot of bonsai growing!

After reviewing this thread I went and had a look at my juniper, using this method to clean things up. I was surprised at how clarifying it was to see the structure pop out from a mass of foliage I wasn't quite sure how to tackle. Thanks for sharing your thoughts Grant, and for the clear instructions and photos. Once I get it finished up and styled a bit, I'll post some results.

Please do,

As you say the structure becomes clearer after the clean up and random sot out; if you have no idea how to tackle the tree in the first place this can help a lot.

grant

[lackhand]

Here is the little juniper I worked on. It's small, and will need a few years to fill out, but I think the basic structure is figured out for now. Some of the branches will very likely become jin in the future, but at the moment I'm not sure which branches I like the most, so I figure I'll let them all grow and decide later. It's hard to see the depth here, which makes the foliage look more dense than it actually is. I don't have a better photo setup for now though, so it will have to do.

IMG_2785.jpg

IMG_2786.jpg

It started out as just a bush and I wasn't sure what to do with it, but following the 2x2x2 method, I was able to start sorting out the structure and come up with some ideas for styling. Very helpful Grant, thanks!

[Elmar]

I love the 'Nuts-N-Bolts' approach of this post! I'm going to print it and laminate it! Nothing like Bonsai for Dummies to get newbies off the ground!!
Love it.
Thank you Big G.

Cheers
EZ

[Grant Bowie]

Here is the little juniper I worked on. It's small, and will need a few years to fill out, but I think the basic structure is figured out for now. Some of the branches will very likely become jin in the future, but at the moment I'm not sure which branches I like the most, so I figure I'll let them all grow and decide later. It's hard to see the depth here, which makes the foliage look more dense than it actually is. I don't have a better photo setup for now though, so it will have to do.

IMG_2785.jpg

IMG_2786.jpg

It started out as just a bush and I wasn't sure what to do with it, but following the 2x2x2 method, I was able to start sorting out the structure and come up with some ideas for styling. Very helpful Grant, thanks!

Need to do a bit of compacting to get the best out of available foliage and branches; plus the loose nature of the type of Juniper hinders as well; but a good start.

This type of juniper could be grafted over to Shimpaku to help.

Grant

[lackhand]

Here is the little juniper I worked on. It's small, and will need a few years to fill out, but I think the basic structure is figured out for now. Some of the branches will very likely become jin in the future, but at the moment I'm not sure which branches I like the most, so I figure I'll let them all grow and decide later. It's hard to see the depth here, which makes the foliage look more dense than it actually is. I don't have a better photo setup for now though, so it will have to do.

IMG_2785.jpg

IMG_2786.jpg

It started out as just a bush and I wasn't sure what to do with it, but following the 2x2x2 method, I was able to start sorting out the structure and come up with some ideas for styling. Very helpful Grant, thanks!

Need to do a bit of compacting to get the best out of available foliage and branches; plus the loose nature of the type of Juniper hinders as well; but a good start.

This type of juniper could be grafted over to Shimpaku to help.

Grant

Thanks Grant. I would love to graft shimpaku, but from what I've heard it's too hot for the variety to thrive here in my climate. I need to talk to some members of the local club and see if anybody has had success. It may just wait, because I'll be moving to a cooler climate in 1.5 years or so. Maybe I'll do it then. I'll start a progression thread on this tree when I work it again so as not to clutter this one.

I do want to say though that I was afraid of it reverting to juvenile foliage after all I took off, but it hasn't. I think it's because following this method, you end up taking off the weakest foliage and the tree isn't bothered as much. Another credit to following a simple method - it works on more than one level.

[Grant Bowie]

Here is the little juniper I worked on. It's small, and will need a few years to fill out, but I think the basic structure is figured out for now. Some of the branches will very likely become jin in the future, but at the moment I'm not sure which branches I like the most, so I figure I'll let them all grow and decide later. It's hard to see the depth here, which makes the foliage look more dense than it actually is. I don't have a better photo setup for now though, so it will have to do.

IMG_2785.jpg

IMG_2786.jpg

It started out as just a bush and I wasn't sure what to do with it, but following the 2x2x2 method, I was able to start sorting out the structure and come up with some ideas for styling. Very helpful Grant, thanks!

Need to do a bit of compacting to get the best out of available foliage and branches; plus the loose nature of the type of Juniper hinders as well; but a good start.

This type of juniper could be grafted over to Shimpaku to help.

Grant

Thanks Grant. I would love to graft shimpaku, but from what I've heard it's too hot for the variety to thrive here in my climate. I need to talk to some members of the local club and see if anybody has had success. It may just wait, because I'll be moving to a cooler climate in 1.5 years or so. Maybe I'll do it then. I'll start a progression thread on this tree when I work it again so as not to clutter this one.

I do want to say though that I was afraid of it reverting to juvenile foliage after all I took off, but it hasn't. I think it's because following this method, you end up taking off the weakest foliage and the tree isn't bothered as much. Another credit to following a simple method - it works on more than one level.

Gosh, I am a genius and didn't know it. Makes sense though what you are saying about the non reversion to juvenile foliage. I shall keep it in mind and see if it pertains to other trees.

Grant

[Grant Bowie]

Slight update,

Another tip is that with branches you are bringing down sharply; do not use one portion near the trunk to form a back branch and then the rest to form the lower left or right hand side branch.

The part of the branch you push to the back never looks natural and it always over fattens the branch right at the trunk as well.

You don't want branches getting as thick as the trunk; it just never looks natural.

Grant

[Grant Bowie]

Update to the tree used in this thread.

IMG_7653.jpg

The tree has been allowed to grow relatively unchecked for about 2 years now and was repotted into a deep training/interim pot about 18 months ago.

Growth on Shimpaku is always very slow after a major wire, thin, style and again after repot.

If it was exactly shaped as I wanted at this point I would trim out the extensions and encourage even vigour all over the tree.

However in this case there are numerous places I would like to allow the elongated branches/growth to fill out new areas and so I will selectively leave extensions where I want new growth and cut out extensions where it is OK.

For instance the lower left hand branches look fine and I will just do a tidy up. The apex needs some extensions to grow to fill out a nice apex and the right hand side needs lots of new growth areas and extended growth.

It should go into a shallower pot this year or next year.

Grant

[Reece]

Great thread and great talent! Thanks so much for this grant. People (including me) will learn so much from this....

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[Rare plant Pat]

Hi Grant,

thanks for this progression. Newbie question. Is the raffia used as wiring protection? Is that typically something that is done for Shimpaku or do you use it for other species? How long do you keep it on for?

[kez]

Raffia is used before wire is applied in order to protect the trunk or branches from splitting when doing heavy bends.

[shibui]

That's right. Tightly wound raffia holds the wood fibres together while the branches are bent. Helps prevent breakages and when minor breakage does occur holds it all together so the tree can heal up.
How long to leave it on depends on a lot of factors. Most would leave it as long as possible to make sure the bends have set in place. Probably 3 -6 months but up to a full year if the tree grows slowly. I keep checking above and below the binding to make sure the tree is not expanding too much. At the first sign of the tree swelling at either end it must come off to prevent ugly swelling. If branches are not yet set rewire but raffia should not be needed as the stress of bending has already passed.
Other materials have been used instead of raffia: strips of bicycle inner tube, vetwrap and other flexible materials that can be wrapped tightly around the parts to be bent.

[Grant Bowie]

That's right. Tightly wound raffia holds the wood fibres together while the branches are bent. Helps prevent breakages and when minor breakage does occur holds it all together so the tree can heal up.
How long to leave it on depends on a lot of factors. Most would leave it as long as possible to make sure the bends have set in place. Probably 3 -6 months but up to a full year if the tree grows slowly. I keep checking above and below the binding to make sure the tree is not expanding too much. At the first sign of the tree swelling at either end it must come off to prevent ugly swelling. If branches are not yet set rewire but raffia should not be needed as the stress of bending has already passed.
Other materials have been used instead of raffia: strips of bicycle inner tube, vetwrap and other flexible materials that can be wrapped tightly around the parts to be bent.

I agree with everything Shibui says except about some biting in of wire; I definitely leave it on longer to ensure the wire has done its job, but everyone has there own level of tolerance to wire bite marks; pain, etc.If you need to rewrite then there is no need to re-raffia usually as it has done its job.
I have left raffia on a couple of trees till it literally rotted off in a dry and papery way(Literatilly if it was a tall skinny tree)
Grant