Newbie advice for WINTER

Share your success stories about defoliation, bare rooting and anything else relating to maintaining healthy bonsai.
User avatar
Rory
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 2807
Joined: January 23rd, 2013, 11:19 pm
Favorite Species: Baeckea Phebalium Casuarina & Banksia
Bonsai Age: 24
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Has thanked: 22 times
Been thanked: 456 times

Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by Rory »

Winter brings reduced sun and with this, potentially a few other problems:

If you have species that likes a lot of sun and doesn't like their roots wet for longer (well, nearly all your stock do not want their roots constantly wet) particularly like conifers, banksia, bougainvillea, pines, etc then it is advisable to monitor these extra carefully over winter. Evaporation is significantly less over winter. One of the great mistakes newbies make is they assume that watering is sufficient because of the potential for extra rain. However, it is the roots you have to be careful of. If your trees soil is not drying out sufficiently, or staying damp too long between waterings, you might want to bring susceptible species undercover to reduce the amount of rain these get and let them dry out between waterings, and try to move them to positions to maximise sun. Remember, the sun in winter is a lot weaker, and some trees will not even need a daily watering, some will happily go days without a water, depending on the species.

Do not over-pot trees ever, but even more so over winter:

Another mistake newbies can make is that they want the trunk to thicken up quickly, so they plant the tree into a substantially larger container than is required. Unfortunately the roots will have no chance of filling this pot in the next few years. At first thought, it seems like a great idea - like planting in the ground. But the problem is that the soil will not dry out in time and generally remains damp for even longer periods, thus promoting fungus, and eventually root rot, then death. The roots need to be generally a snug fit into the container you are placing the tree (just slightly more room than the roots). If you are wanting to increase the girth of the trunk and grow the tree the fastest way possible ; you gradually increase the pot each year as the roots grow, and this will correctly grow the tree so that the roots use up the moisture in the pot sufficiently between waterings, and not be left in damp soil. Planting in the ground is very different, because roots from everywhere will soak up excess water, and generally the watering will not be as saturating as in a pot when watered. If you have trees in growing pots, check that the bottoms are drying out occasionally (underneath the pot), as water can pool and promote fungus growth.

Be careful of pots that bulge up in the middle from the base:

This is not a well known issue, but many factory produced pots I have seen (and in bonsai nurseries) are terrible for this reason. If the pot has a slight bulge up in the middle, it means water is going to stay pooled on the edges of the bottom. This spells disaster for drainage and can rot the roots, more so over winter. If the pot does do this, throw it away.... actually smash it, so no-one else will re-use this death trap. If you are unsure of what I am talking about, get the pot and pour water in it. You will be able to tell if water is pooling in it by looking at how much pools on the sides when there is no tree inside it. There are very, very few trees that will ever benefit from this, and in my opinion it is not worth keeping the pot.

For evergreen trees, it helps to have a lot of foliage on your tree over winter:

The less foliage an evergreen tree has, the less water it will require. So if your tree has a good 'head of hair' going into winter and you know it is a susceptible tree to root rot, then leave plenty of foliage on it over winter which increases the water intake and helps the roots get sufficiently aired in between waterings to continue to slowly feed the tree or at the very least - depending on the species, keeps the soil dryer. For instance, if you have heavily cut back the tree going into winter, it is going to use a lot less water going forward, and due to most species not growing over winter and requiring less water, it will spell doom for the roots unless you have great drainage and adequate watering.

Do not 'clump' your trees together ; space them apart to maximise sun:

The sun travels very differently across the sky than in summer and is usually a lot weaker in strength, because of the angle of the earth over the corresponding 6 months. I know this may not be easy, but if you have a day when you are not doing a lot and are at home, if you can spare a full day then every half hour or so, take note of where the sun is shining during winter over your trees and adjust your trees accordingly. Basically, the same tree will get potentially very different angles of sun than in summer, and may need to be moved to get sufficient sun. Remember, that with group plantings especially, you will need to rotate them more often so each side gets plently of sun for the opposing trees. It wouldn't hurt to also turn all your trees a bit more regularly over winter too.

And on a side note, take note and be careful of strong winds:

Even if the sun is reduced over winter, strong winds can still dry out the soil quickly, so don't assume the tree doesn't need water because of the lack of sun, but just remember to check each tree and do not 'blanket water' your trees because you think a few of them need watering. Each tree will usually require different watering levels over winter so you have to be very careful not to over water your trees during this time, and unfortunately the best way is checking each tree individually.

This leads on to the final point - Check each tree individually!

This may be a time of collection culling when you realize you have too many. You might need to part with some to properly maintain your collection. Just remember that having a large number is not viable and means you may be overwatering jewels of your collection just to maintain the high numbers of trees simply because you can't be bothered giving each one the proper level of attention that is required. It is far more important to water your best stock correctly, rather than try to blanket water all of them just on the assumption that most need water.
Make sure your benches and the top soil are clean and free of dead leaves or build up of any clutter or organic dead matter. This can invite a host of unwanted disease or pests into your collection.
Last edited by Rory on May 4th, 2015, 11:37 am, edited 2 times in total.
Rory
I style Bonsai naturally, just as they would appear in the wild.
Central Coast, NSW
Bonsai: Casuarina Leptospermum Banksia Phebalium Baeckea Melalueca Ficus

Growing Australian natives as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=289480#p289480

Buying and repotting Native nursery material: viewtopic.php?f=78&t=30724

Growing tips for Casuarina as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=244995#p244995

How to reduce moss from the trunk without damaging the bark: viewtopic.php?p=295227#p295227
nikki
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 7
Joined: March 9th, 2015, 6:57 pm
Favorite Species: maple
Bonsai Age: 1
Location: Australia

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by nikki »

Thank you so much for this post - it is really appreciated :D :D
User avatar
Reece
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 519
Joined: August 8th, 2012, 9:26 am
Favorite Species: Conifers.
Bonsai Age: 2
Location: Sydney

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by Reece »

Thank you! Great advice!

I'm having problems because of some of the stuff written here.... My problem was that I was away and it rained the whole time. I was only ever worried about drying out while I was gone. Boy was I wrong!
63pmp
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 492
Joined: December 20th, 2008, 7:41 pm
Bonsai Age: 25
Location: rural NSW
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by 63pmp »

"Be careful of pots that bulge up in the middle from the base:"

This occurs when pots are fired upside down and not supported properly, I've seen it in both chinese and japanese pots. Rectify this problem with one of these, 1/2 inch diameter works well.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=diam ... 7&dpr=1.25

You can get them from hardwares easy enough.

Mark where the water ponds with a pencil and drill away, careful not to damage the feet of the pot of course.

Not sure I agree with your over potting statement. As long as you are using sieved particles of potting mix, then it doesn't matter what size pot you use as water will not pond in the mix any more than it does in a bonsai pot. It's the amount of air filled porosity which determines root life and death, not the presence of water. If you have adequate air filled porosity you can plant a seedling in a bath tab full of mix and it will grow fine. Insufficient air filled porosity; than only bog plants will survive. In the ground its different because soils are effectively infinite in size and drain away to low lying areas. But plants like air, only specialist plants grow well in wetlands, but its only because there is no air in the soil, not because of too much water. People have to stop thinking that water holding capacity of soils is the most important thing, and think instead of air holding capacity. It takes days for a plant to die from dehydration, but it only takes hours from oxygen deficiency. Water is not toxic, lack of air is. Sorry for the rant.

Regards

Paul
"The older I get, the less I know"
User avatar
Rory
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 2807
Joined: January 23rd, 2013, 11:19 pm
Favorite Species: Baeckea Phebalium Casuarina & Banksia
Bonsai Age: 24
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Has thanked: 22 times
Been thanked: 456 times

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by Rory »

63pmp wrote: As long as you are using sieved particles of potting mix
I understand your rant, but that is assuming the drainage is exceptionally good in the medium being used - in your case this would be a multitude of macropores for maximum benefit of air-filled porosity. And I would probably doubt that a newbie has made adequate planning for this.

But thank you for bringing this to note for more experienced enthusiasts. :tu2:
Last edited by Rory on May 4th, 2015, 12:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Rory
I style Bonsai naturally, just as they would appear in the wild.
Central Coast, NSW
Bonsai: Casuarina Leptospermum Banksia Phebalium Baeckea Melalueca Ficus

Growing Australian natives as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=289480#p289480

Buying and repotting Native nursery material: viewtopic.php?f=78&t=30724

Growing tips for Casuarina as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=244995#p244995

How to reduce moss from the trunk without damaging the bark: viewtopic.php?p=295227#p295227
User avatar
Jarad
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 1232
Joined: November 27th, 2014, 1:04 pm
Favorite Species: Juniperus, Melaleuca, Taxodium
Bonsai Age: 9
Location: Perth, WA
Has thanked: 22 times
Been thanked: 13 times

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by Jarad »

Very detailed post Rory, thanks for going to all the effort to type it up!
-Jarad

I don't trust Bonsai, they are a little shady.
phillicondor
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 40
Joined: February 17th, 2014, 7:34 pm
Favorite Species: ficus
Bonsai Age: 0
Location: Grafton

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by phillicondor »

Thanks mate. After reading this I took wander around my garden this morning. I've just noticed that a little maple I had in a nice sheltered spot in summer isn't getting any sun at the moment. I never thought about how much the angle of the sun can change through the seasons. And I have a few big grow pots I have in a corner that just get the hose on them every now and then that I'll have to keep an eye on because there getting less sun too. I've also got a few maple cuttings that are now getting full sun because the mulberry tree next door has dropped it's leaves. Things I never would have thought of. These sort of posts are real handy for those of us just starting out. Cheers phillo
User avatar
Rory
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 2807
Joined: January 23rd, 2013, 11:19 pm
Favorite Species: Baeckea Phebalium Casuarina & Banksia
Bonsai Age: 24
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Has thanked: 22 times
Been thanked: 456 times

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by Rory »

Yeah, same. Every 3 months or so in fact I have to rearrange most of my trees to optimize for sun. If I could afford it, I'd move and get a sunnier place, but we have to work with what we have.

Just make sure anything needing full sun isn't being shaded or over-watered
Rory
I style Bonsai naturally, just as they would appear in the wild.
Central Coast, NSW
Bonsai: Casuarina Leptospermum Banksia Phebalium Baeckea Melalueca Ficus

Growing Australian natives as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=289480#p289480

Buying and repotting Native nursery material: viewtopic.php?f=78&t=30724

Growing tips for Casuarina as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=244995#p244995

How to reduce moss from the trunk without damaging the bark: viewtopic.php?p=295227#p295227
User avatar
Elmar
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 1205
Joined: October 12th, 2013, 10:33 pm
Favorite Species: living trees!
Bonsai Age: 2
Location: Port Hedland
Been thanked: 1 time
Contact:

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by Elmar »

Thanx Rory,
Good food for thought! Same as others I had assumed (mother of all stuff ups) that what worked in summer will work in winter, just less watering time!

Time to go over the layout outside.


Cheers
Elmar
Cheers
Elmar
phillicondor
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 40
Joined: February 17th, 2014, 7:34 pm
Favorite Species: ficus
Bonsai Age: 0
Location: Grafton

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by phillicondor »

With all this cold weather is anyone having Any problems/ losses? I'm in Grafton so it isn't too cold but there's been lots of wind. Lows down to 5ish and still getting to 20ish of a day with lots of dry wind. I've moved a couple of figs and my bougs under the house for a few days. Any other plants that don't like the cold? How do natives usually go. I'm keeping an eye on my baeckea but it seems to be ok apart from drinking all the water in its tray every day in this wind. I'm actually getting a bit worried about things drying out. I've been trying the chopstick thing cos the top of my pots seems to be drying but it's still moist underneath. I just thought this would be a good place to talk about losses or problems this cold snap was causing anyone.
Cheers Phillo
elljuu
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 123
Joined: January 30th, 2015, 12:21 pm
Favorite Species: wisteria. apple. japanese elm.
Bonsai Age: 5
Location: brisbane

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by elljuu »

How well do bonsai hold up in frost? There is frost predicted for brisbane on Wednesday morning
Jason57
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 37
Joined: May 26th, 2015, 6:21 pm
Favorite Species: Pine
Bonsai Age: 0
Location: Adelaide

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by Jason57 »

Great Info......thank you very much!!
User avatar
kcpoole
Perpetual Learner
Perpetual Learner
Posts: 12272
Joined: November 12th, 2008, 4:02 pm
Favorite Species: Maple
Bonsai Age: 15
Bonsai Club: the School Of Bonsai
Location: Western Sydney, NSW, Australia
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 84 times
Contact:

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by kcpoole »

elljuu wrote:How well do bonsai hold up in frost? There is frost predicted for brisbane on Wednesday morning
It depends on the species.
Tropicals can suffer badly with leaves and tips getting damaged but everything else should be fine

Ken
Check out our Wiki for awesome bonsai information www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki
What is Bonsai? http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index.php?title=Bonsai
What should I do now? http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index.php?title=Newbie
How do I grow a Bonsai? http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index. ... _a_Bonsai?
Visit a Bonsai nursery to see some real nice trees http://www.ausbonsai.com.au/wiki/index. ... _Nurseries
User avatar
two40
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 7
Joined: July 12th, 2015, 11:24 am
Bonsai Age: 0
Location: Sydney

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by two40 »

Excellent post - thanks from a newbie.
User avatar
Rory
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Aussie Bonsai Fan
Posts: 2807
Joined: January 23rd, 2013, 11:19 pm
Favorite Species: Baeckea Phebalium Casuarina & Banksia
Bonsai Age: 24
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Has thanked: 22 times
Been thanked: 456 times

Re: Newbie advice for WINTER

Post by Rory »

Another important tip over winter:

Before you rewater your tree, check the interior soil near the base of the tree. It may still be quite damp closer towards the ball of the roots, and reasonably dry towards the outer area of the pot. Make sure you are not rewatering the tree if the inner area near the base of the tree is still damp too.

I have lost Casuarina and Callistemon trees before from not properly checking this. :palm:
Rory
I style Bonsai naturally, just as they would appear in the wild.
Central Coast, NSW
Bonsai: Casuarina Leptospermum Banksia Phebalium Baeckea Melalueca Ficus

Growing Australian natives as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=289480#p289480

Buying and repotting Native nursery material: viewtopic.php?f=78&t=30724

Growing tips for Casuarina as Bonsai: viewtopic.php?p=244995#p244995

How to reduce moss from the trunk without damaging the bark: viewtopic.php?p=295227#p295227
Post Reply

Return to “Tips, Techniques, Maintenance and Advice”