Propagating white pine

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Daluke
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Propagating white pine

Post by Daluke »

Having tried time and time again to propagate pine by cuttings and failing, I think the time has come to learn how to graft.

I’ve started researching but have found limited information online about it. Specifically I’m trying to learn how to graft white pine onto black pine under stock.

Does anyone have any links, posts or tips on it?

Excuse my ignorance if I use the wrong terms on the matter but when grafting the white pine onto the black pine roots do you remove all black pine needles before the white takes?
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Re: Propagating white pine

Post by treeman »

You can start grafting now.
Use a pencil thick BP stock, remove it's lower needles and shoots so you can work properly, and graft as low as you can lining up the cambium of both stock and scion on one edge of the cut of a simple side graft. Wrap the graft with tape to hold it in position. A good graft will stay in position before you tape it. (practice with disposable material) Cover the scion and union with clear plastic. Do not touch the stock until it has completely healed and then begin to cut back in stages over three years.
Last edited by treeman on July 18th, 2018, 2:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Propagating white pine

Post by shibui »

This one seems to cover the basics of pine grafting. http://bonsainurseryman.typepad.com/bon ... ft_fo.html
There is some info in there about timing but note that it is California so adjust the months to Southern hemisphere. Interesting that he says he now has better success grafting pines in summer. I once did a demo in mid summer, not expecting it to survive but it did so timing may be broader than we allow for if correct techniques are followed.
Note that he does not cover the scions but mentions relying on misting. I have had good success enclosing the scions with small ziplok plastic bags.

Here's another one that uses wrapped scions - Black pines as the subject but same technique used on white pine https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2013 ... ting-time/

I'll try to find photos of my attempts later.
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Re: Propagating white pine

Post by Daluke »

Thanks for the tips. I’ve tried - fingers crossed
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Re: Propagating white pine

Post by Ryceman3 »

Daluke wrote:Thanks for the tips. I’ve tried - fingers crossed
Pics or it didn’t happen!!? (or it did and you don’t have pics, but I like to think there’s pics...) :fc:
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Re: Propagating white pine

Post by shibui »

Here are a couple of photos to show how I have been grafting pines. This graft is black pine on black pine rootstock but the technique is the same for any pine and similar for most evergreens. Many growers use small variations on some or all of these steps while still adhering to the basic principles - ensure cambium contact; seal the cut area and prevent the scion from moving; provide humidity for the scion until cambium union is complete.

Scions are 1 year old shoots.
PICT0009.JPG
Remove excess needles and cut a wedge on the stem (note that the scion wedge for side wedge graft is longer on one side which does not show up in this photo)
PICT0010.JPG
Make a slanting cut to take the scion in the rootstock. Where possible make the cut as low as possible - see Treeman's comment above - to try to disguise the graft union amongst the nebari. This one is probably a bit too high but easier to see in photos.
PICT0011.JPG
Insert the shaped scion into the cut in the rootstock. Important note: All grafts rely on cambium layers being in close contact so the graft can form. Note that this scion has been placed toward one side of the stock so cambium contact is along the left side. If it was placed in the centre there would be no cambium contact between stock and scion and the graft would fail.
PICT0012.JPG
Tape up the graft to stop the cut surfaces from drying out and to prevent the scion from moving. Grafting tape is convenient but I've seen other materials used for this.
PICT0013.JPG
Ensure that the new scion does not dehydrate before the graft heals. I find ziplok bags easy to use and effective but other methods are used - mummy wrap in parafilm, grafting tape or gladwrap, plastic bags tied over the scion, misting, etc.
PICT0014.JPG
I know that some grafters tie a small bundle of sphagnum around the graft site to help with humidity and maybe to stop the grafted surfaces from drying but I have not found that necessary.

This photo shows the scion a couple of months later - still healthy. Plenty of condensation inside the bag indicating good humidity levels.
PICT0003.JPG
About this stage I open the bottom of the bag to allow more air circulation and slowly start getting the scion ready for open air.
The callus along this edge indicates that the graft has healed and sap is now moving between the roots and the scion.
PICT0004.JPG
The top of the rootstock can be gradually reduced to encourage more flow through the scion. (Not shown in these photos) Best not to remove all the rootstock in one go. Leave at least some live needles to keep the roots alive until sap flow changes through to the scion.

The following spring we get growth on the scion.
Black pine graft.JPG
Remove the rest of the old trunk when scion growth is strong showing it is being supported by most of the roots.

When the scion is growing strongly the last of the old stock trunk can be cut close to the graft.
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Re: Propagating white pine

Post by terryb »

Very well illustrated, thank you for taking the time to post
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Re: Propagating white pine

Post by Daluke »

As said previously - thanks for the pictorial reply!
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Re: Propagating white pine

Post by Ryceman3 »

terryb wrote:Very well illustrated, thank you for taking the time to post
Ditto... thanks shibui! Pics always make more sense. :yes:
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Re: Propagating white pine

Post by Raging Bull »

Thanks very much for this very informative tutorial shibui!! :worship: You have given me the confidence to try a graft on my JBP.
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Re: Propagating white pine

Post by Rare plant Pat »

Nice pics Shibu - would this work for re-working a JWP? I bought an older one a few years ago and some of the branches are too bare for what I'm trying to aim for. I'm wondering if its a pretty simple fix to side graft on the bare sections and then cut back in time as you have described. Would you recommend July as the grafting period. I'm in the Yarra Valley, so not quite as cold as you.

Also, if a cambium match is made, would this work for JWP where the trunk is missing a branch?
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Re: Propagating white pine

Post by shibui »

It is far more tricky to match cambium when the stock is much larger than the scion. I've also had trouble making a clean cut through the thicker bark of larger branches.
If you can master both those issues you can graft wherever you like. I understand that making 3 slices close together into thicker bark helps to get a clean, flexible grafting cut. Scions can be inserted at an angle so at least one place will have cambium contact.
I've had more success with approach grafting when putting shoots onto larger branches.
Others have used thread grafting - wrap the bundled needles in clingwrap or slip a split straw over the needles so you can push them through the hole.
I think August or September would be better for grafting. You need the stock tree to be starting to grow so it will heal up before the scion dies from dehydration. Quick healing is critical so trees need to be active. It is also possible to graft pines right through summer. Found that when I did an impromptu demo for a visitor and it survived. I put a couple of JBP grafts on a few weeks ago just to see what would happen and at least 1 looks good. Later grafts may not heal well before growth slows for winter so will take more months until it is ready to remove the top of the stock (or end of the branch with shoots grafted to long branches). Late spring and early summer it is difficult to find suitable shoots for scions as all shoots will be fresh and growing.
Saw a post just the other day from a pine grafter saying he uses shoots from donor trees that have been decandled the summer before because those shoots are shorter and compact and easier to use but any suitable shoots can be used. Note that decandling doesn't apply to white pines. You should have suitable short shoots anyway.
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