Heat Stress

Share your success stories about defoliation, bare rooting and anything else relating to maintaining healthy bonsai.
Marc
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by Marc »

Guys... So far i'm lucky, I think only 1 fatality... but it aint over yet. I have some others looking VERY ill....

Question: If a Japanese Maple bleeds BLACK blood (sap) right out of the trunk, is it dead ??? :shock:

So far I have 2 decent maples, not bonsai, actually regular trees, however, not old, about 7 or 8 years old each. On both trunks and branches have gone very brown, some nearly black, a baaaaaaaaad sign. And from these brown sections of trunks, black sap has come out. I presume they've simply cooked in the 40+ heat day after day...

I THINK these parts of the tree are dead, fingers crossed it shoots back to life in the next few weeks.... :evil: There are a few small green bits of trunk and branch left, so we'll see.
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by Bretts »

Heat stress or leaf burn as I call my trouble has been my biggest hurdle in the 4 years I have been doing this. I got hooked on the hornbeams that are a cold climate tree. They strugle in our heat. I was constantly searching for the best solution to shield them from the heat. I made some mistakes. a couple of years ago I made a shade house that was in a large area behind the shed. It was 70% shade cloth and had very limited ventilation I set this up with a misting watering system. This was the worst year I had. I lost branches and one of my hornbeams.
I spent the next year researching and talking to anyone I could for advice on this. This is what I have found.
Area is very important. Many of the part shade trees like maple and Hornbeam don't even need direct light. If you can find a spot that is always in the shade but has sky above, you will have a great start. My area is a back corner, which is not optimal for ventilation but is the best I have. It is important to have some understanding of air flow around your garden. You want good ventilation but you don't want it exposed to wind currents. I have erected a triangle pergola with bench that gives me sun until about 10am then a range shade from two neighbors trees. The outer most part of my bench is were I put the sun lovers.
Micro climate is very important. An article in Bonsai Europe #66 was very informative in this. It states that misting is of little use as the local humidity will be slightly increased but only for a minute. Appaerently placing water trays or even ponds near the trees will have only a marginal effect on a still summers day but no effect as soon as there is wind.
But have you ever noticed how fresh and cool it is when standing near lush vegitation. This is apparently because the leaves are constantly transpiring. This is much greater even when compared to the surface of a pond. So surrounding your bonsai with plants that have large or soft leaves will dramatically influence the micro climate of your growing area. Hosta are a great choice as they have soft lush leaves are easy to grow and die back in the winter frost to have their bulbs burst out again in spring. They can also make great accent plantings.
Like Pup I think shade cloth is best. I Find lathe houses interesting and I will have to experiment with them in the future.
The best trick with shade cloth as Pup states is to not have it up at the beginning of the growing season. I put mine up when the temps start to hit the 35*. This allows the leaves to harden up some. Remember though I have part shade from trees as well. Remove the shade cloth in Autumn as the temps again drop down past 35*(Autumn colour is increased from sunny days and cold nights)
As heat stress comes from the roots not being able to supply water to transpire through the leaves fast enough then it seems obvious that the better your root system then the better it will be able to cope. So I work at getting the best root system possible. I do this by the best soil I can manage. This is free draining a soil that can never be overwatered. This allows me an almost a scientific approach to watering. There is no need to check each morning like I had in the past which need watering. I can tell when the trees will need watering by the weather conditions of the day. When in the 30's about a third of my trees need watering twice a day. When it gets close to 40 or over I tend to water all three times a day. The joy of this system is I can water all trees multiple times a day with little concern of over watering. Also I can instruct anyone I have recruited on nesacary watering even though I can not see the trees.
Also to encourage root growth I fertilise weekly with full strenght fertiliser as long as I have growth and use seasol to get as much growth as possible from the roots.
Lat season and this have been a great improvement although not yet perfect. In the far corner of my growing area I can feel the coolness from the shade and lush growth under my benches. We have got to 40* this year(not as hot as some) but I still have new growth comming out on my hornbeams.
This is the overall shot of my area showing the shade trees.
bench long.jpg
Her is the inside corner of my bench area. I went mad with hostas last year but they are hidden behind all the other plants/trees growing under my bench. I cut these back before Christmas but I will let the grow wild until the worst of the temps are over. You may also notice the 50% shade cloth (sail). After having trouble finding someone to sew a custom one up my Wife and I spent a day sewing rope to the outside edges so it hooks onto eyelets on the pergola and can be removed easily.
bench corner.jpg
I also have been game to leave some sun lovers out in the full sun with no protection at all. I did pull these in on our hottest days recently as I was testing a auto watering system and I decided to be safe than sorry.
bench pond.jpg
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Last edited by Bretts on February 2nd, 2009, 11:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by Bretts »

Marc your maple does not sound well. I have never had anything like you describe, What are the leaves like. Heat stress will show up in the leaves first.

If you look at the long shot of my pergola at the left front post in the bigger blue pot is growing a japanese maple this gets sun most of the day it has some burnt leaves but is still growing. It's mix is very free draining and is watered 2-3 times a day. It is a feature plant type pot not a bonsai pot though. I put it here when I was reorganising one day and expected to have to move it but it has been fine.
Last edited by Bretts on February 2nd, 2009, 11:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by Asus101 »

soltan wrote: Micro climate is very important. An article in Bonsai Europe #66 was very informative in this. It states that misting is of little use as the local humidity will be slightly increased but only for a minute. Appaerently placing water trays or even ponds near the trees will have only a marginal effect on a still summers day but no effect as soon as there is wind.
But have you ever noticed how fresh and cool it is when standing near lush vegitation. This is apparently because the leaves are constantly transpiring. This is much greater even when compared to the surface of a pond. So surrounding your bonsai with plants that have large or soft leaves will dramatically influence the micro climate of your growing area. Hosta are a great choice as they have soft lush leaves are easy to grow and die back in the winter frost to have their bulbs burst out again in spring. They can also make great accent plantings.
Like Pup I think shade cloth is best.
I have a large amount of my tree's down the side of the house with very thick shade cloth. Misting there increases humidity and it will stay humid all day. It wouldnt stay humid though IF I doidnt have the plant i have in there.

Edited for spelling, and possible misunderstandings...
Last edited by Asus101 on February 2nd, 2009, 6:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by Bretts »

Try walking into an area sourounded by lush plants on a hot day and you may understand what I am saying. What I have given is sound advice.
Last edited by Bretts on February 2nd, 2009, 2:12 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by 63pmp »

Keeping roots cool is a very important issue to consider in hot weather, as they literally stop working when they get too hot. I'm not sure of the exact temperature, but its close to 40 C. The ground never goes over about 16 (from memory, don't quote me) at a depth below 15centimetres, and soil is usually shaded in a forest setting. So roots never have to cope with real heat, and when in a pot, in the sun, they cook. A good option for heatwaves is to bury your pots in moist soil in the ground, or sand pit, or in a pile of potting mix, wet straw, anything that will stay cool. Definitely shade them so heat does not penetrate the medium, they will survive many weeks in the shade without dying. Where as one scorching could kill them.


I have my cold climate trees under shade clothe all the time. I've found that hornbeams and japanese white beech hate direct sun in spring and summer. Maples are happy with only summer shelter. I find keeping humidity high with misting is very helpful. I have overhead sprinklers which wets everything.

Remember not to over water if your drainage is not up to scratch, no point in stressing them with water-logging, better to keep the roots cool than saturated.

Sounds like you guys a having it tough, we've only been nudging 40 lately and that's miserable, I don't know how you cope with 45's.

Good luck

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Re: Heat Stress

Post by Asus101 »

soltan wrote:Try walking into an area sourounded by lush plants on a hot day and you may understand what I am saying. What I have given is sound advice.
I am agreeing with you. Here I need to mist as the heat has 0% moisture. If I didn't mist leaves burn and dry out.
I like creating mirco climates, and only change plant positions when seasons change.
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by Bretts »

OOps sorr Asus I thought you said it would stay humid if you removed the trees :oops:
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by Bretts »

Hey Paul if you are hiding Hornbeam and Beech up there then that three hour drive is looking shorter all the time. ;)
Ray won't sell me beech because he reckons it is too hot here.
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by aaron_tas »

wow :shock:

and i thought the 38-42 degree day (which also made records) down here was super hot :!:

:arrow: good luck to everyone this summer
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by 63pmp »

Hi Soltan,

So far the hottest we've had is 37, so not all that hot. Were expecting 39-40 on Saturday, but the record is only 42.2, so it doesn't get all that hot here in Mudgee.

I've got two lots of Hornbeam (just to gloat a bit ) two Rock Hornbeam, and two "american" hornbeam. C. coralinum (or whatever the spelling is) oddly enough I bought them from Ray. (Just don't tell him were you live and that you have heaps of cold climate stuff). I've got 3 Fagus crenata, my little babies, which I molli-coddle as they are quite rare in Oz. I bought them from Megumi Bennetts nursery. Bit of a story there. They imported 30; 2year old seedlings from Japan. 15 died in customs and another 5 died at the nursery. The rest were looking very poorly. I was speaking with Megumi's son, who I can't remember his name now and fagus came up in the conversation. He took me up the back of the nursery and showed me these struggling Fagus. Didn't quite know what to do with them as they were too sickly to put in the nursery. He sold me three, for $30 each. I thought it was an absolute bargain. Took them home and repotted them as they were in a clay sand soil and drowning. I keep them sheltered in my shade house, (50% shade clothe) they seem to like morning sun before summer really sets in, the leaves get a little scorched in summer, but Fagus are best in winter anyway. Their only four or five years old, so nothing much to see, their not real fast growers, but they've got a little taper happening already. If you keep their roots cool, and moist, in summer they get through it without too much trouble.

I tried propagating them by cuttings, which is said to be impossible. However I did get about 60% to root, but they failed to shoot next spring and died. When I've got my propagation house up and running i'll have another go. I only had little Yates propagators, and so had to trim the shoots down. I now know that the first one or two buds on F. crenata are dorment if the shoot is left to grow. So to get them to fit in the incubator I had to chop them down to three nodes. But others with obvious buds failed to shoot. I intend to use Vitamin B1 and full length shoots in my next attempt.

The hornbeams just rock on, they are still growing strongly, even though a couple of leaves have been burnt, they seem to tolerate heat better than some japanese maples I have. I treat them like the Fagus, I tried putting one of the american hornbeams out for spring, but the sun just burnt everything off and the plant nearly died. I don't do that anymore. I wasn't brave enough to put the Rock hornbeam out, though the Japanese say they should have spring sun.

I've got a few other coldish climate things, but nothing to write about.

Thanks for the taking interest.

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Re: Heat Stress

Post by Bretts »

I have no chance of keeping my location away from Ray he knows were I live already. It is very intresting that you have american" hornbeam. C. coralinum from Ray. I do too and I have had some comments that they may be Hop hornbeam because of the rough bark.
Ray is adamant that they are american" hornbeam. C. coralinum. He states that he brought seeds back from japan and only one germinated. I have found niether hornbeam nor hop hornbeam with bark like mine. There is suggestion of seed variation. This may be possible. My best guess is carpinus coreana.
I have been so intreeged by this that I have recently sent a sample of this tree to sydney botanical gardens so I can get an ID. I am not looking forward to any conversation about this with Ray if id comes back as different to american hornbeam.
I will post mine in a new thread soon. I hope you can add a pic too so I can compare the tree caracteristics. It would be very intresting to see others of these trees from Ray as well :)
I purchased a witch hazel as a replacment for beech this season. All though all info I get on the internet states cold climate tree these ones I have been comming accross state they are heat tollerant? It had burnt leaves when I got it but it has been putting out new growth for about a month or so.
Thanks for the Info
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by 63pmp »

Hi Soltan,

I've never been a hundred percent confident with any of Ray's identifications, as he has a lot of stuff unlabeled. When I bought my hornbeam's of him they weren't much bigger than a few inches and looked the same, when they grew a bit I realized he had them all labeled wrong, one rock hornbeam was labeled american, and vise versa. It took a few years before the rock hornbeams took on the proper leaf size and branching habit. I'm still not 100% certain on the other, but I've nothing to compare it to and so call it an american hornbeam. I'll take a picture of them and post them up soon.

Paul

PS, Checked weatherzone for Parkes this morning, it said 5 days of 40+!!!!!!! Don't know how you cope.
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by PeterW »

Good luck to all you Southerners over the next few days, i hope the temps dont reach what they are predicting!
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Re: Heat Stress

Post by kcpoole »

Today it is going to be over 40 again here.
Tomorrow is to be hotter again at up to 44 Deg!

Yesterday it was 27 in Sydney but here, Only 30 Km away in the Suburbs it was 39. We have had weeks not of temps in the mid - hi 30s

Most of my trees are under the Eucalypts in the yard so are in dappled shade all day so are suriving quite well. I water only once in the morning.
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