How to grow Junipers, conifers from cuttings

Discussions about propagating from cuttings, seeds, air layers etc. Going on a dig (Yamadori) or thinking of importing? Discuss how, when and where here.
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Kharetore
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How to grow Junipers, conifers from cuttings

Post by Kharetore »

What is the process of growing junipers and conifers from cuttings?
I have seen and tried with new grow and taking a heel when you strip the shoot from a branch.
Can you grow them from bigger cuttings as well?
Do they propogate if you air layer them?
Is it to late in the season now to try more?
What about cedars?
I haven't had much luck with any cutting I have tried I thing I may leave to much leaves on and they dehydrate.
Swamp cypress do they strike from cuttings as there are allot up here.
Any advice for any type of plant would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
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Ray M
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Re: How to grow Junipers, conifers from cuttings

Post by Ray M »

Kharetore wrote:What is the process of growing junipers and conifers from cuttings?
I have seen and tried with new grow and taking a heel when you strip the shoot from a branch.
Can you grow them from bigger cuttings as well?
Do they propogate if you air layer them? Yes they will
Is it to late in the season now to try more?
What about cedars?
I haven't had much luck with any cutting I have tried I thing I may leave to much leaves on and they dehydrate.
Swamp cypress do they strike from cuttings as there are allot up here. You can propagate by softwood cuttings in spring and hardwood cuttings in autumn. They also Air Layer very well.
Any advice for any type of plant would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
Regards Ray
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Re: How to grow Junipers, conifers from cuttings

Post by shibui »

I strike juniper cuttings at all times of the year. Rooting is quicker in spring and summer but they can make roots any time.
Many conifers are very slow to root. I have some juniper cuttings that have taken nearly 12 months to strike and you will need to maintain good conditions all that time. A proper propagating setup will improve success and reduce time taken.
Very few growers use heeled cuttings now. It has been shown that the heel can start to rot away and infect the cutting so most use just straight stem cuttings. Half hard wood will usually give best results.
I have only struck cuttings from 3mm to 6 mm thick. Older wood usually tends to be less able to root so I suspect that thicker cuttings may be difficult.
Layering is definitely possible, even with species that are difficult to strike as cuttings like black pine. Junipers layer well. Many of the shimpaku in my grow beds have roots from branches close to the soil without me even doing anything.
I think now is a good time to start layers and they should root reasonably quickly.
Cedars are very difficult as cuttings. I think I have done it in the past but last couple of tries were failures. It may be possible to layer but I have not tried. Some other conifers are also difficult or impossible (pines) but some are quite easy.
Swampies do strike as cuttings. My success rate here is low but I'm not sure why. Should be quite easy. Dormant cuttings would be easiest but if you can maintain humidity I think they should root with leaves on.

I remove at least 2/3 of leaves from cuttings to reduce transpiration. You will also need to maintain high humidity. I have an automatic misting bed to maintain humidity but you can use a plastic bag or clear plastic box for small scale cuttings.
Always use a propagating mix to set cuttings - 50/50 peat/sand or peat/perlite (buy bags of propagating mix at the nursery). Soil or potting mix has too much pathogens.
Rooting hormone will improve results. Some growers use honey or other solutions to dip cuttings but most are only growing easy to strike species so the dip may or may not be helping.
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