Sheoak literati

[The Surgeon]

Hi all

I bought this Sheoak from a local nursery at the cost of $5.

IMG_1783.jpg

It is approx 1300mm high

IMG_1785.jpg

The base is only about 45 mm wide and has nice bark.

IMG_1786.jpg

Tomorrow I will attempt to wire. As the bark is brittle down low, I will try to anchor the wire to the grow pot rather than take all it the way to the base, and use raffia on the tree prior to wiring above the brittle bark.
My aim is to wire to a literati style but not touch the lower truck (to preserve the bark).

more to come!

[shibui]

The last sheoak I wired proved to be extremely brittle. 3 bends and 3 breaks but all healed up afterward. One good thing about Allocasuarina is that they will bud from bare trunks right down to the roots so if it does break while you are bending just chop wherever you want the first bend and wait for the new shoots.

[The Surgeon]

Will do, That was the plan - if it's a failure ......trunk chop,

Thanks

[Rory]

That is incredibly sparse of foliage for a Casurina in that size pot.
To me this indicates it’s either incredibly pot bound or starving or both.

It’s not the optimal time to do a trunk chop for a casy, but if it was mine I’d only repot, and just separate the roots initially, and get some fresh potting mix in there, as you may find it’s like cement. Feed it up well and full sun for the next 8 months, then once it’s bushy and happy, bend it like Beckham or chop it like the Karate Kid.

Most casys are very hardy, but occasionally on stock that isn’t in great health or with a great root system, they can sulk badly if attacked by a bonsai enthusiast when you’re approaching the cooler months.

But excellent choice for a literati. Bulging base Allos that have developed the swell at the base don’t look good on literati in my opinion.

[The Surgeon]

That is incredibly sparse of foliage for a Casurina in that size pot.
To me this indicates it’s either incredibly pot bound or starving or both.

It’s not the optimal time to do a trunk chop for a casy, but if it was mine I’d only repot, and just separate the roots initially, and get some fresh potting mix in there, as you may find it’s like cement. Feed it up well and full sun for the next 8 months, then once it’s bushy and happy, bend it like Beckham or chop it like the Karate Kid.

Most casys are very hardy, but occasionally on stock that isn’t in great health or with a great root system, they can sulk badly if attacked by a bonsai enthusiast when you’re approaching the cooler months.

But excellent choice for a literati. Bulging base Allos that have developed the swell at the base don’t look good on literati in my opinion.

Thanks Rory,
As I repotted yesterday I was surprised at how few roots there were. As a result I simply teased them out a little, didn't remove or trim any and repotted in a course mix.
So despite my initial course of action to bend today, I have put it back on the benches to see how it goes.

Should I feed now? Probably another couple of weeks before it starts to get cooler here?

Jason

[Rory]

If it was me, I'd leave it alone for 8-9 months now. Let it recover its health. Do not cut off any new growth, let everything grow from everywhere.
Place it in full sun or as much sun as you can give it.

Make sure you tie or anchor it into the new pot, because especially with tall material that isn't anchored well...it will easily blow over in the wind.
And nothing says Death quicker than a recently repotted tree with an exposed and blown over root system.

Only put in slow realease Osmocote native slow release granules for fertilizer. I wouldn't use liquid fertilizer so soon on a repot.
Wait about 6 weeks if you really want to use liquid fertilizer like Powerfeed. And use a reduced strength like 40% for your first attempt.

Its just had a massive root upheavel and doesn't have a lot of foliage, so its not going to soak up water like before. Keep it well watered for the next 3 weeks, but then be careful not to keep the mix always damp. You then need to only water it when it starts to get dry after 3 weeks.
But for the next immediate 2-3 weeks, DO NOT let it get dry.

Good luck.

[The Surgeon]

If it was me, I'd leave it alone for 8-9 months now. Let it recover its health. Do not cut off any new growth, let everything grow from everywhere.
Place it in full sun or as much sun as you can give it.

Make sure you tie or anchor it into the new pot, because especially with tall material that isn't anchored well...it will easily blow over in the wind.
And nothing says Death quicker than a recently repotted tree with an exposed and blown over root system.

Only put in slow realease Osmocote native slow release granules for fertilizer. I wouldn't use liquid fertilizer so soon on a repot.
Wait about 6 weeks if you really want to use liquid fertilizer like Powerfeed. And use a reduced strength like 40% for your first attempt.

Its just had a massive root upheavel and doesn't have a lot of foliage, so its not going to soak up water like before. Keep it well watered for the next 3 weeks, but then be careful not to keep the mix always damp. You then need to only water it when it starts to get dry after 3 weeks.
But for the next immediate 2-3 weeks, DO NOT let it get dry.

Good luck.

Thanks Rory,
Great advice, Much appreciated.
I have supported the trunk so it wont blow over. Thanks for the watering tips. This is my first native!!

[The Surgeon]

A quick update - 10 weeks later

Placed in full sun.
Fert = Amgrow Ferticote Native Plants - Slow release (NPK 17.3/1.6/9) and Seamungus

Noticeable increase in growth.

Sheoak 230521.jpg

[Watto]

Coming along nicely now, only about 5 or 6 more months to wait before you get the wire and scissors out.