AusBonsai

Hi all
I have had this one for ages and thought I better post it as I had repotted today but forgo to take a photo. Will do tomorrow.
It started out as a Self sown seedling from the garden at home in 2005, and I put it into large pot to practice wiring and trunk chops on, as they grow fast and are bullet proof.
It has been in this pot for only a year and is developing nicely. Is potted in Diatomite / Zeolite.
I defoliate Constantly thru summer to try to keep the leaves in check but does not seem to mind. As you can see has been cut back several times and they will shoot back from bare wood. They seem to suffer a bit from die back thru winter.

Ken

Note the Green slime on this tree. It is similar / Same as the problem Brett mentioned about his Privets in this thread viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5559

This tree gets sun only to midday, so generally stay fairly wet all the time. The slime I am now convinced is caused by the soil staying too wet, and maybe having to much nitrogen? as there is no organics in the pot to decompose to remove it?

A wash and dry out of the mix will restore it to pristine clean ready for reuse, so I am up for ideas not how to lessen the occurance of it in the first place

When I lift the pots from the post it is on, the top is covered in Green tinge and some more protected spots on the bricks and concrete have it too. So just not only a problem on our trees. As we constantly water them, They get affected by it more?

Ken

Nice tree. Even though brisbane has heaps of jacaradahs, I haven't been able to find a good candidate for bonsai training. This is probably on of the best jac I've seen.
As to the slim. It happened to me too. I just used diluted cooking vinegar and sprayed on it a couple times and it peeled off after a week or so.
Cheer,
DK

Ah cool KVan, Thanks for the tip. I will Mix some today and try it

Ken

Hey Ken,

Nice Jacarandah, I have also found they thump along if the food and water are kept up to them. Of the many that i have played around with over the years they tolerate everything I have tried, even really big stumps can be dug & will just power along.

Winter dieback is a problem but I have found if I dont prune after the end of summer it is less of an issue and any dieback will usually restrict itself to the ends of branchs so you dont loose the whole lot. Another thing I have found is when a branch does dieback to leave the first inch or 2 of it as its not uncommon for them to reshoot up to 3yrs later, if you remove the whole branch with bonsai cutters you are also removing the dormant buds at its base.

Have you had any issues with getting wounds to heal over? Some of mine will heal up nicely, others not at all. Having said that i am not one to use wounds pastes etc so maybe thats a factor.

Matt

Ps if you want to get it to flower they take many years from seed when grown in a pot (in ground they can flower from 2yrs old) but correct pruning will also encourage it. Following the same process to avoid dieback IE not pruning/pinching after summer will allow the buds to develop & mature. Jacarandah flower from the leading tips of last years wood, remove the tips remove the potential to flower.

Hey thanks Matt
Will try and not prune after New year and see how we go this year.
I just assumed that Jac's woudl never flower in a pot

Re the Grow over. I always use cut paste, and on this one the first cut never healed over ( it was about 1 inch or bigger across), but the others which are smaller have done ok. They always leave a scar tho and wioll never shoot from them which is why I have to bring that branch down and Graft it in over the old chop

Ken

Hey Ken,

I had been told that they would never flower in apot, a friend has one in a giant earthenware pot that flowers reliably every year. And never flower if grown as a bonsai, however my oldest one finally did on its 21st birthday! Tho I dont think age had anything to do with it, I had left it untouched for most of the year to grow out. I planted some 2yr old seedlings in my garden here and they flowered the following november so age isnt the main influencing factor.

Thanks for the info re pruning scars, I might have to invest in some cut pastes.

Matt

wow nice tree probably the nicest jacarandah ive seen. ive been on the hunt for one but none have been suitable for a bonsai so hard to find a good one to work with

nauticadlay wrote:wow nice tree probably the nicest jacarandah ive seen. ive been on the hunt for one but none have been suitable for a bonsai so hard to find a good one to work with

LOL Thanks
Start with a seedling in a BIG Pot ( mine was about 2ft across) and you can have one like this in 5 years.

You could dig one from anyone who has a Jac in a garden. look round enough and you shoud find some. They do not take long, and are great teachers of technique

Ken

Just grabbed an updated photo for you all. not much change in the last 3 months but slightly moved in the pot

also add some of the cuts healing over slowly or not at all

Ken

I was considering what was going in the ground today and figured my Jacaranda stump was a candidate. I will try to remember to get a picture. I can't remember what the roots are like and has a massive scar to heal from the trunk chop but I am hoping it will come up nice in the ground.
This is a nice one Ken.

Thanks Brett
Put yours in the ground for a year or 2 will do it wonders
Ken

Someone at the show asked me today about Jacarandah and how they go, and mentioned this site and these threads so hope maybe he will find us here.
After talking about my tree, I had a look and decided it needs a little work so after it cooled off a little I grabbed it off the bench.

Cut back to to 2 leaves and wired the branches out as the always just grow directly up

i will not trim again to see how it goes this winter

Ken

Hey Ken,

Thats really starting to come on well.

How do you find it responds to wiring? With the way the new shoots can thicken do you have any trouble with it cutting in?

I normally just flex the new shoots down over the course of a few days till they set, it doesnt take long. I used to tie them down with string like I do most of my other trees but stopped as even that cuts in real quick on young shoots.

Matt

thanks Matt

As you say, after a few days they set so I will only leave the wire on for a few weeks.


Ken