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https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=30896
How do the Japanese prevent this from occuring on their older trees?PeachSlices wrote: ↑July 11th, 2023, 5:52 pm my biggest one same thing one branch went brown then whole tree died slowly
your not alone, might be just winter colouring aswell
Simon
Probably a combination of all and;SuperBonSaiyan wrote: ↑July 12th, 2023, 3:26 pmHow do the Japanese prevent this from occuring on their older trees?PeachSlices wrote: ↑July 11th, 2023, 5:52 pm my biggest one same thing one branch went brown then whole tree died slowly
your not alone, might be just winter colouring aswell
Simon
I know there's preventative spraying, which I've been doing (lime sulphur in winter, rose shield throughout growing season).
I guess I just need to add a stronger (copper and or mancozeb) spray to my Itoigawa throughout the year as well?
I've potted up a few junipers with your suggested sand mix.treeman wrote: ↑June 11th, 2023, 11:56 am If you want junipers to thicken as quickly as possible in the ground (or pots) don't grow them in soil or potting mix, grow then in quartz sand beds around 8 inches (20mm) deep with maybe 10% organic mixed in. The sand should be a mix of 0.5-4mm particle size. They will respond to that quickly.
If they are in an airy place in full sun, like mine, water every day in summer along with everything else. If you have just repotted, they will take a while to dry out, especially this time of year. Use the finger in the mix technique. if moist, no need to water. Junipers are very drought tolerant, especially if they get daily dew or misting. But of course they grow faster if well fed and watered.SuperBonSaiyan wrote: ↑September 1st, 2023, 11:34 pm
I've potted up a few junipers with your suggested sand mix.
Could you give info/tips about watering? Because sand doesn't change colour when wet, how do you go about watering junipers in sand?
When I repotted one of your junipers the roots were fantastic, so I know it works. Just want to make sure I water correctly.
Also, would this sand mix work for pines?
Happy to report that this plant now seems to be doing well. Pushing out new growth from the tips (healthy light green).SuperBonSaiyan wrote: ↑July 10th, 2023, 9:09 am I have an Itoigawa that's doing a bit poorly compared to the others.
treeman wrote: ↑June 11th, 2023, 11:56 am If you want junipers to thicken as quickly as possible in the ground (or pots) don't grow them in soil or potting mix, grow them in quartz sand beds around 8 inches (20mm) deep with maybe 10% organic mixed in. The sand should be a mix of 0.5-4mm particle size. They will respond to that quickly.
I've repotted all my plants now, most of the developing junipers in sand, like you suggested.treeman wrote: ↑October 4th, 2023, 3:16 pmtreeman wrote: ↑June 11th, 2023, 11:56 am If you want junipers to thicken as quickly as possible in the ground (or pots) don't grow them in soil or potting mix, grow them in quartz sand beds around 8 inches (20mm) deep with maybe 10% organic mixed in. The sand should be a mix of 0.5-4mm particle size. They will respond to that quickly.
Sorry that was not a reply, just fixing an old spelling mistake.SuperBonSaiyan wrote: ↑October 5th, 2023, 5:01 am
My question was more around when to put the Itoigawa in question back onto the benches. It's kept isolated so it doesn't infect the others, but I'm not sure how long to keep it isolated to be safe.
Interestingly, grafted shimpakus seem more resistant to the disease but that is another unproven hypothesis. I might try grafting some more Ito onto procumbens or Kaizuka and see how they go.....I noticed some of my Itoigawa foliage was yellow. Is yellowing of the foliage an early indication of disease? Or is it something normal for this time of year?treeman wrote: ↑October 5th, 2023, 8:17 amSorry that was not a reply, just fixing an old spelling mistake.SuperBonSaiyan wrote: ↑October 5th, 2023, 5:01 am
My question was more around when to put the Itoigawa in question back onto the benches. It's kept isolated so it doesn't infect the others, but I'm not sure how long to keep it isolated to be safe.
It should be fine to put it back on the benches. This disease does not seem to be that contagious as I've had sick and healthy ones side by side without much change. I think the disease enters through a wound made either by scissors or by some kind of insect. I don't really know much about it's spread. Whether it is directly (sap to sap) or by wind-borne spores or both. So regular spraying would help - not that I do it.....
https://www.bjornbjorholm.com/care-and- ... juniperus/Additionally, juniper bonsai will likely shed interior foliage as the temperatures start to heat up in summer. This yellowing growth is referred to as toya in Japanese. This is a normal process wherein the tree is shedding weaker foliage in favor of stronger external foliage to help offset over-transpiration. In order to limit the amount of toya produced by a juniper bonsai, consider removing some growth from the tree earlier in the Spring season. For example, remove foliage on the undersides of pads, as well as crotch growth and unnecessary branches in the tree's design. Once again, though, be sure to leave the extending shoots intact and uncut at this point in Spring.
