.Cheers Ian
Phoenix Graft Shimpaku
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alpineart
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Phoenix Graft Shimpaku
This was done with the assistance of the Wife , much quicker with 2 people .Same principals applied to the earlier post . Deadwood trunk is Juniperus Chinensis from a collection of tree's many years ago that didn't survive . The Shimpaku junipers were layered off several stock plants here for grafting purposes Again to prevent damage to the shimpaku foliage , glad wrap was wrapped around the trunk to be inserted up through the deadwood hollow Cable tied and screwed into the grooved sections and a basic wire for the few shoots and branches and potted up That's it for tidying up the yard for a while .
Cheers Ian
.Cheers Ian
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Last edited by alpineart on November 10th, 2022, 12:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PWC
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Re: Phonix Graft Shimpaku
Hi Ian,
Good to see you recycling the old bonsai. Do you remove the bark from the side of the shimpaku that is inserted into the groove of the dead wood? or just use the screw and cable ties. I have seen reports that suggest that the removal of bark improves the integration onto the host trunk giving a better connection. I would be interested to hear your view.
Good to see you recycling the old bonsai. Do you remove the bark from the side of the shimpaku that is inserted into the groove of the dead wood? or just use the screw and cable ties. I have seen reports that suggest that the removal of bark improves the integration onto the host trunk giving a better connection. I would be interested to hear your view.
Peter.
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alpineart
- Aussie Bonsai Fan
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- Joined: July 14th, 2009, 9:04 pm
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Re: Phonix Graft Shimpaku
Hi PWC , mate all the previous old Tanuki I have done i have never removed the bark . They fill out and roll over exceptionally well .
The previous post i have removed the bark on the thicker trunk as the groove was too tight and some damage occured , I did leave it on the thinner one . If i stick around long enough time will tell which is better .
If you take bark of one side of a tree it will slowly dry out and die off , therefore it cant expand into the groove . The bark will attempt to heal the scar but if its tight enough it should simply roll over the new host .
This has all the bark in place and only needs to expand around 1mm and it will lock itself into the groove.In most places the groove is 60% or more of the live material being inserted . The groove is more of a "C" shape rather than a simple "v" shape. A vee shaped groove wont hold .
No screws were inserted into the live material as an ugly swelling takes place from past experience and take considerable time to heal after the screws are removed .
The head of the screws are used as a bridge to hold the live material place , these can be released slowly without damage to the bark .
Cheers Ian
The previous post i have removed the bark on the thicker trunk as the groove was too tight and some damage occured , I did leave it on the thinner one . If i stick around long enough time will tell which is better .
If you take bark of one side of a tree it will slowly dry out and die off , therefore it cant expand into the groove . The bark will attempt to heal the scar but if its tight enough it should simply roll over the new host .
This has all the bark in place and only needs to expand around 1mm and it will lock itself into the groove.In most places the groove is 60% or more of the live material being inserted . The groove is more of a "C" shape rather than a simple "v" shape. A vee shaped groove wont hold .
No screws were inserted into the live material as an ugly swelling takes place from past experience and take considerable time to heal after the screws are removed .
The head of the screws are used as a bridge to hold the live material place , these can be released slowly without damage to the bark .
Cheers Ian
