Flowering quince

[shibui]

Too right Kirky. My oldest chojubai stems are still under 1cm thick. Most of the cuttings I set are probably around 2-3mm thick. Takes a couple of years to thicken to 6mm.
It must be possible but I think layering chojubai would be hard. Lots of sharp spikes on the stems. Very thin stems.

[MsGreth]

Now you have me eyeing off the suckers on my smallish garden plant (the very ordinary red) I also have the fairly ordinary apple blossom one, but that is badly overshadowed by a vigorous rosemary and needs transplanting. Jobbies to be done.

[SuperBonSaiyan]

I noticed a cute little bud on my Chojubai this morning, so thought I'd share.



What a fun little plant.

[SuperBonSaiyan]

I've been reading this page on how to prune chojubai.

https://crataegus.com/2018/08/31/how-to ... -chojubai/

I was wondering if anyone could share some pictures of this part:

For a Chojubai the technique is trimming back the extended shoot about the time it’s hardening off in late spring / early summer. Leave about 1/3″ / 0.5 cm of the shoot, which will have several buds. From that area 1-3 shoots might arise, but usually just one. But back budding can occur as well.

I think I understand what he means, but I'm not sure... Leaving 0.5cm of a shoot, how do I know this will have several buds?

Are the buds the spot where leaves are growing? If so, these are spaced around 0.5 apart, so I don't really understand how leaving 0.5cm will leave several buds.

Thanks!

[KIRKY]

Have a look at this site it shows you what he is talking about seeing it may help explain it better.
There are some YouTube on trimming Chojubai as well in your google search.

https://crataegus.com/2020/11/20/focus- ... -chojubai/

Cheers
Kirky

[SuperBonSaiyan]

Have a look at this site it shows you what he is talking about seeing it may help explain it better.
There are some YouTube on trimming Chojubai as well in your google search.

https://crataegus.com/2020/11/20/focus- ... -chojubai/

Cheers
Kirky

Thanks, I have so many cuttings now. I hear they strike easily so I might plant a bunch in my garden along with the azaleas (again, I've heard they strike early but yet to be seen by my own eyes).

[treeman]

I've been reading this page on how to prune chojubai.

https://crataegus.com/2018/08/31/how-to ... -chojubai/

I was wondering if anyone could share some pictures of this part:

For a Chojubai the technique is trimming back the extended shoot about the time it’s hardening off in late spring / early summer. Leave about 1/3″ / 0.5 cm of the shoot, which will have several buds. From that area 1-3 shoots might arise, but usually just one. But back budding can occur as well.

I think I understand what he means, but I'm not sure... Leaving 0.5cm of a shoot, how do I know this will have several buds?

Are the buds the spot where leaves are growing? If so, these are spaced around 0.5 apart, so I don't really understand how leaving 0.5cm will leave several buds.

Thanks!

If your tree is not several decades old (I'm guessing it isn't) then you need to do the following... Feed them a lot after flowering. That means about twice as much as some other plants. Make sure you have a good balance of NPK. Something like 10 - 3 -10. The shoots get going a little late in spring. First you just have spring leaves and after a month or two shoots start to elongate. Let these grow until they are quite long. (Do not neglect feeding. Usually, liquid is not enough) When the lower part of the stem begins to change from green to brownish is the time to cut. They should be about150mm long more or less. If they are shorter and still green, leave them. Cut leaving 2 leaves. Keep feeding well because they will need it to re-grow new shoots as long as the one you cut off. If you feed properly, you should be able to cut three times in the season and the 2 buds left should both grow. Repot every year and repeat the above until the tree is 20 years old. After than it will may slow down a bit.
This is how much I'm feeding the quinces... At repotting I add nutricote, during the growing season I use organic cakes, blood and bone, or other organic solid feeds every 2 weeks. I also give them nitrosol liquid now and then. I give them seasol once or twice a month and a few times during the season I crush some compound fertilizer (superphosphate, ammonium sulphate and potassium sulphate) ...be extremely careful!) and put on the surface as much as would just cover a 2 cent piece and water that in.
If you don't feed well they will not develop well.

[Daluke]

I've been reading this page on how to prune chojubai.

https://crataegus.com/2018/08/31/how-to ... -chojubai/

I was wondering if anyone could share some pictures of this part:

For a Chojubai the technique is trimming back the extended shoot about the time it’s hardening off in late spring / early summer. Leave about 1/3″ / 0.5 cm of the shoot, which will have several buds. From that area 1-3 shoots might arise, but usually just one. But back budding can occur as well.

I think I understand what he means, but I'm not sure... Leaving 0.5cm of a shoot, how do I know this will have several buds?

Are the buds the spot where leaves are growing? If so, these are spaced around 0.5 apart, so I don't really understand how leaving 0.5cm will leave several buds.

Thanks!

If your tree is not several decades old (I'm guessing it isn't) then you need to do the following... Feed them a lot after flowering. That means about twice as much as some other plants. Make sure you have a good balance of NPK. Something like 10 - 3 -10. The shoots get going a little late in spring. First you just have spring leaves and after a month or two shoots start to elongate. Let these grow until they are quite long. (Do not neglect feeding. Usually, liquid is not enough) When the lower part of the stem begins to change from green to brownish is the time to cut. They should be about150mm long more or less. If they are shorter and still green, leave them. Cut leaving 2 leaves. Keep feeding well because they will need it to re-grow new shoots as long as the one you cut off. If you feed properly, you should be able to cut three times in the season and the 2 buds left should both grow. Repot every year and repeat the above until the tree is 20 years old. After than it will may slow down a bit.
This is how much I'm feeding the quinces... At repotting I add nutricote, during the growing season I use organic cakes, blood and bone, or other organic solid feeds every 2 weeks. I also give them nitrosol liquid now and then. I give them seasol once or twice a month and a few times during the season I crush some compound fertilizer (superphosphate, ammonium sulphate and potassium sulphate) ...be extremely careful!) and put on the surface as much as would just cover a 2 cent piece and water that in.
If you don't feed well they will not develop well.

When you say to cut to two leaves - are these the “baby” rounded ones or the maturer ones?

[treeman]

When you say to cut to two leaves - are these the “baby” rounded ones or the maturer ones?

Mature ones. You want good buds in the axils. If you don't have them it will shoot from older ones lower down.

[SuperBonSaiyan]

I found this article recently - seems like a good resource for anyone interested in creating a Chojubai bonsai.

I especially like how it's set out in years - gives a sense of how progression is accomplished.

http://www.internationalbonsai.com/file ... RTICLE.pdf

So much to learn. Loving this hobby.

[KIRKY]

Thanks for the link.
Just be aware it is for Japanese flowering quince. Not for Chojubai. They are not the same and grow completely differently. As long as you bare this in mind your good.
Cheers
Kirky

[SuperBonSaiyan]

Thanks for the link.
Just be aware it is for Japanese flowering quince. Not for Chojubai. They are not the same and grow completely differently. As long as you bare this in mind your good.
Cheers
Kirky

I had no idea, thanks for letting me know!

[SuperBonSaiyan]

Is now about the right time to start wiring chojubai?

How far can I contort a 5mm thick section? Is it juniper /pine flexible (90 degrees), or much less?

Would 45 degrees work (twisting in the direction of the wire).

I'm hoping to get towards something like this, but if it's safer to do on cuttings please let me know and I won't risk it.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CfQTHIkJsIh/

[treeman]

Is now about the right time to start wiring chojubai?

How far can I contort a 5mm thick section? Is it juniper /pine flexible (90 degrees), or much less?

Would 45 degrees work (twisting in the direction of the wire).

I'm hoping to get towards something like this, but if it's safer to do on cuttings please let me know and I won't risk it.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CfQTHIkJsIh/

I would definitely not wire a 5 mm branch on quince. Just use it as is without trying to force it into a particular pre-conceived shape. Time will sort out everything in the end. As for the rest, you can wire any species now. Overly-wired chojubai always look contrived to me.

[SuperBonSaiyan]

Good point, the ones I aspire to grow one day are like these: https://crataegus.com/2018/08/31/how-to ... -chojubai/

I don't see extreme contortions on those trunks.