2015 AABC National Convention - Adelaide

[Gerard]

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Before and after Koji workshop

I like the 2 main trees reworked. But I kind of prefer the 3 minor ones ''as before'' The the extreme left one in particular seems forced down to far to me?

Appreciate the thoughts Treeman, Koji's major message was that the talest tree was hidden too much. After the first adjustment Koji worked his way around the room and suggested to bring it down more. I thought it was OK with the last tree a little more upright but plan to re-pot in spring (freeform tray) so I will re assess at that time.

[Steven]

What a great convention!

I've come away feeling inspired and invigorated thanks to Koji, Tony, Joe and everyone else sharing their skills and passion on stage. Andrew, your committee and the South Australian Bonsai Society are to be congratulated for the huge effort you have put in!
Thank you to everyone who contributed to the exhibition, demonstrations, sales area and the partying
It was great catching up with bonsai friends, new and old from around Australia and getting to know Koji from Japan.

I was fortunate to do 2 workshops with Koji and also spent a lot of time asking questions and learning about bonsai from his point of view. I've picked up lots of great advice and tips and I can't wait to start putting into into practice.

I worked on 3 tree's in the workshops. The little Shimpaku that I took with me as hand luggage, a Dwarf Spruce that was grown by Treeman and a Procumbens grown by Tien at Bonsai Sensation. I ran out of room so the procumbens is being driven back to Sydney by a friend.

The Spruce was a simple exercise in wiring and rearranging the branches. BTW I love Treeman's stock!!

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The Shimpaku was a lesson in growing shohin from scratch. Koji went into great detail explaining the process and techniques of growing high quality shohin material from initial shaping of trunks to branches, styling, creating deadwood etc.
Eventually this tree will only have the 3 pads of foliage on the left hand side. Everything else on the tree has been shaped and is growing on to become deadwood. In early Spring I'll start increasing the shari up the trunk and extending it out to the dead branched.

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And here we are just after the full day of workshops (and before we hit the town).

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Now I'm back home I'll be able to catch up on some sleep

Regards,
Steven

[Matt S]

Hi Steven,

I'm glad you had such a great time at the convention. I've only just caught my breath and I'm full of ideas and enthusiasm.

You mentioned you spent some time talking to Koji about creating Shohin from scratch. Any chance you could start a thread and share some of what you learnt? I have half a dozen juniper cuttings I bought just for this purpose and I'd love to get some pointers.

Matt.

[Boics]

Hi Steven,

I'm glad you had such a great time at the convention. I've only just caught my breath and I'm full of ideas and enthusiasm.

You mentioned you spent some time talking to Koji about creating Shohin from scratch. Any chance you could start a thread and share some of what you learnt? I have half a dozen juniper cuttings I bought just for this purpose and I'd love to get some pointers.

Matt.

Yes please!

[Luke308]

Hi Steven,

I'm glad you had such a great time at the convention. I've only just caught my breath and I'm full of ideas and enthusiasm.

You mentioned you spent some time talking to Koji about creating Shohin from scratch. Any chance you could start a thread and share some of what you learnt? I have half a dozen juniper cuttings I bought just for this purpose and I'd love to get some pointers.

Matt.

Yes please!

Steven - Not sure if I missed it if you have, but would love to see a post on this please

[Steven]

G'day Luke,

I posted it HERE and here is the quote.

Following on from my post in THIS THREAD and Matt's reply, below is a summary of Koji Hiramatsu's advice for creating shohin from scratch. He was specificity referring to Pine or Juniper but most can be used for any species.

• Minimum 5 years and up to 10 years is required to create high quality shohin material before styling.
• Start with thin cuttings or young seed grown material.
• Grow in pots to control the tree easier.
• Work the roots first to ensure even radial growth and no tap root.
• Wire early. Ensure there are NO straight sections. Put exaggerated bends into the trunk and all branches. Bends should be forwards and backwards as well as side to side. AVOID CORKSCREWS. Movement should start right from the base of the trunk and the beginning of branches.
• Let the trunk and branches grow freely after the wired section. This creates the energy to fatten the trunk and branches.
• Let any low branches grow freely and uninhibited to act as sacrifice branches. These will cause the base to fatten and create taper.
• Maintain the centre foliage (Close to the trunk) and the outer foliage on branches. The centre foliage will be used for the future tree and the outer foliage creates the energy for growth. Removing the foliage in the middle of branches allows light to get into the centre foliage.
• Shari (dead wood on the trunk) should be started as a thin (>5mm) line in early Spring. It can be increased by 2mm to 5mm twice a year in early Spring and early Summer. This lets the bark grow in between cuts causing a textured and natural shari.
• If shari is done on the front and back at the same time it will make the trunk or branch fatten sideways. With practice this can also be used to create movement in straight sections.
• When shortening or removing branches turn them into deadwood (jin) first and if they are not required they can be removed later.

Regards,
Steven