Callistemon branch re design

[Pat.G]

Good evening all,

I have recently purchased this Callistemon viminalis (not 100% sure of the exact species) and I want cut back the first branch and regrow it lower on a different angle.
Do I leave the main branch attached while I grow the selected shoot out, or cut back right now?
I would like to take a cutting from the branch aswell. Do they strike that large?
Critique also welcome!
Cheers,
Pat



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[tgward]

my immediate thought on seeing this was to totally remove the trunk or create a jin above the first branch -try to create a bit of movement in the lower trunk(with clamps) and create a literati style-- these are of course just thoughts from first impressions

[tgward]

or air layer above first branch?

[Jan]

Or......
layer both the main trunk above the first branch and
layer the first branch above the first shoot producing two new trees.
then build the parent tree from the first shoot on the first branch and any subsequent shoots that sprout on the remaining portion of the main trunk.

Just a thought, and another option.

[Pat.G]

I like all the ideas guys thanks! I never really even considered giving it the full chop then re develop. It’s probably the best route when I think about it.
When is the best time to air later Callistemons?


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[Watto]

Pat, would you mind putting your location in your profile please? It makes it much easier to provide assistance and advice because many things are climate related, thus the location is part of the essential information needed.
I will propose an alternate method. Keep it the size it is now and wire the branching to indicate a windswept or water swept image. A crescent pot would complete the picture in my view.
I love Callistemon so good luck with it and I am looking forward to the next installment.

[Andrew E]

For me I would cut back to the first branch. Cutting back to the first branch will give you taper and develop some movement in the trunk.
Regarding growing on, it depends on a few things. Final projected height of the tree, thickness of the trunk, taper development and also how quickly you want to grow your tree.
They do take from cuttings up to pencil thick.
They're a hardy tree that takes to bonsai techniques well. Love the flowers too.
Good luck with it!

[Pat.G]

Pat, would you mind putting your location in your profile please? It makes it much easier to provide assistance and advice because many things are climate related, thus the location is part of the essential information needed.
I will propose an alternate method. Keep it the size it is now and wire the branching to indicate a windswept or water swept image. A crescent pot would complete the picture in my view.
I love Callistemon so good luck with it and I am looking forward to the next installment.

I’m living in the Hunter Valley, NSW.
I’ll change that now!
Not sure about windswept, it’s never been a style that has interested me. It may also be abit to top heavy if I do that. Saying that it’s not off the cards as I could wire it windswept and choose then what direction I want to take.


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[terryb]

Assuming they are healthy, Callistemon (does the genus still exist?) will shoot back prolifically after a cut back. However, it has been my experience that most of the buds that are activated are relatively close to the cut sites. Perhaps someone else who has been growing these far longer than I can comment on this observation. If that is the case and you still want buds lower than the current branch, I think you are going to have to cut back fairly hard to reliably get buds in the position you want.

[shibui]

You are correct about Callistemon no longer being valid TerryB. These are now all part of the Melaleuca genus but changing the anme does not change the way they grow.
I have found that each species has its own quirks. What used to be C. sieberii (now Melaleuca paludosus) would regularly grow lots of new shoots all over the trunk even on 20 year old wood with thick bark. Other callistemons are more like many other plants and bud mostly close to the cut sites with just occasional shoots lower down. One species with really thin needle like leaves is really reluctant to bud after pruning but throws new shoots from the base and roots after hard chops.

There is no real scale in the original photos so hard to judge just how thick the trunk is or how large the tree actually is.
As always there are many possible ways to style this tree.
Watto's proposal could be achieved in a year or 2. If the tree seems a bit too top heavy it should be pruned and thinned. That's what styling is about.
The others have suggested a much longer development program. Chopping and regrowing will take 3-5 years + more to grow branches and achieve ramification. Add another year if you go for layering new trees.
Unless the trunk is a lot thicker than it appears to be I'm not sure layering will be worth the time and effort as these are readily available at pretty good prices if you want a different shaped trunk and I can't see any sections that are outstanding for bonsai.

I'm generally a chop and grow person so I would probably chop somewhere and see what came from that but you would need to accept the longer term nature of that path and there are no guarantees that what you get will be better than what you currently have.