To dig or not to dig, that is the question...

[JimmyBanks]

So I have a bottlebrush (not sure the specific name) in the front yard in a shallow bed. I like the base but the trunk etc needs significant work. I simply planted it and let it grow. It's been growing for about 2 or 3 years. I'm considering digging it up and attempting to turn it into something but am not sure.

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Before I decide to go down this path what should I consider? These are a few of considerations I've come up with but would be grateful for those with more experience to let me know if there is anything else I should consider:

1. When would be the best time to dig it up?
2. Should I put it straight in a bonsai pot or should I put it into a grow box?
3. Would I be better off leaving it where it is and cutting it back now to let it develop in the ground?

All thoughts appreciated.

Cheers,

[shibui]

Any time of year is the correct time to dig Callistemon in Melbourne.
It is slightly easier to look after the transplants when it is not super hot and dry or really cold so spring through to early summer or late summer through to autumn may give it a slightly better chance given you don't seem to have much experience.

I would chop in ground because new shoots will be prolific while it has an intact root system. Just make sure you chop low enough. Growth will almost all be up from the chop point so there's no point chopping at the height you think the tree will be. Need to allow for new leaders to grow and ramify above the first chop.

I've had good results with a chop then dig and transplant when it has some strong new shoots growing.
I've also had good results doing a big first chop then pruning the resulting new shoots several times over the next couple of years to get some good ramification quickly then dig and transplant when they have a new trunk line and some branching.
Don't think there's any one 'best' way.

[legoman_iac]

I don't have experience with Callistemons but did a big maple "ground to pot", and have an equal big thread here: https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/forum/view ... =7&t=28887

It has:
- lots of great advice from members, some is species specific
- shows my mistakes
- covers the migration, timing
- discusses pot size
- did a successful air layer
- designed and made by own "grow pot"

Tree(s) doing well, feel it's a great technique to try, except I keep eyeing off trees in the neighbourhood ... once you do one, you might want to do more!

I'm proud of the grow pot. Not as pretty as a pot, but function over form. Happy to share the design of there's interest.

[JimmyBanks]

Thanks for the advice Shibui, and thanks legoman_iac for pointing me to the thread on you maple - great thread with plenty of advice.

Your assessment is correct, I don't have much experience. After reading what you have said it might be best to hold off on the transfer given we are expecting a week of 30+ temperatures.

[legoman_iac]

The way I read Shibui's post, is:

- cut back, hard (now-ish)
- wait a while for new growth (weeks?)
- then dig?

There's no one right way ... but many less-good ways. You need to be willing to break a few eggs to make a bonsai, or omlette.

If this tree means lots to you, consider air layering a branch or two

[Keep Calm and Ramify]

..not to dig

the stock is not great - uninteresting (straight) trunks with
mature surface roots circling the base that will need major work to reduce or hide? (that's if it survives the transplant)

If your after some experience in digging trees then do it - but as legoman mentions, you would be better off either air layering a more interesting branch section and develop from there, or if possible, purchase some young tube stock that you can have full control over whilst growing & learning
as developing.


sorry to be a "Debbie Downer" in this instance.

[Keep Calm and Ramify]

[TimS]

agreed with KCAR, not every single tree or shrub in the world can or needs to be a bonsai, nor should it be.

[legoman_iac]

If it were me, I'd probably dig. I dug. No regrets. I realise I've got short "telegraph poles", particularly the air layered fork ... but it's all a great experience.

- dSc

[shibui]

agreed with KCAR, not every single tree or shrub in the world can or needs to be a bonsai, nor should it be.

Agree wholeheartedly with this statement. Many proposals I've seen would take longer to convert than to start fresh of trunks with no redeeming qualities.
This one, however, could just be a viable conversion. The trunk does have some useful features - the low fork and bend are just 2. It is also a Callistemon so is amenable to many techniques and should respond quickly.

Here's one possible idea.

callistemon1.png

Reduce thicker trunk to dead wood and carve to natural shape.
Tilt trunk around 40 degrees
Chop thinner trunk quite short and use the resulting new shoots to grow branches and canopy - New design could be almost any shape depending on the new shoots that emerge.
Ground layer just above existing roots if the current nebari is still not acceptable at the new planting angle.

Callistemon are responsive to all the above techniques so the conversion could be well under way in 5 or so years?
Even if the tree never makes it into a bonsai pot the experience of creating dead wood and carving, transplanting, changing trunk angle and/or layering will all be well worth the attempt

[Jan]

Thanks for starting this thread, JimmyBanks.
Excellent information, thanks to all contributors.
Husband is about to remove an old Cal from his shed garden so nothing to loose giving it a try, unfortunately wont be able to grow new shoots before digging but it does have some new shoots down low so all good.
I'm inspired to give it a go.
Jan

[JimmyBanks]

Interesting idea shibui I hadn't thought of a dead wood option for the larger trunk. It's far too straight and was trying to consider what the options would be for it. Creating dead wood as you have shown would certainly be a learning experience for me.

..not to dig

sorry to be a "Debbie Downer" in this instance.

No need to apologise, I have very limited experience and was considering it more for learning purposes. Where it currently is I am thinking of replacing it with another shrub and I have very little experience when it comes to growing in ground and then transferring into a bonsai pot, so it would mostly be for educational purposes rather than turning it into a beautiful bonsai specimen.

agreed with KCAR, not every single tree or shrub in the world can or needs to be a bonsai, nor should it be.

I agree with the sentiment in this post, but I also don't want one of the first trees I dig out of the ground and turn into a bonsai to be a really good tree that I will be worried about losing. This would be more for practice and education rather than creating a brilliant bonsai.

[GavinG]

Maybe, if you're just starting out, choose something that's not such hard work... Try to pick something with low angles, something you can cut a large trunk off, and leave a smaller branch to carry the trunk line on. Dig smart, not hard!

If you belong to a club, see if you can tag along on a digging day, and get people to explain why what they've dug will work well as bonsai. Pick brains, and figure out how a bonsai is made, in stages. Then when you know how to make it work, go crazy!

Gavin

[tgooboon]

I have dug up 6 Callistemons which were yard trees, done major chop at the same time and all have survived. If it were in my yard and I had plenty of time, what i would consider is:
- major cutback of both trunks now down to what you like the look of.
- dig on two opposite sides using a sharp shovel. cutting 25% of the roots on one side and 25% of the roots on the opposite side - Think of a clock face 12-3 & 6-9.
- wait 3-6 months - if the tree is still strong and covered in backbuds. cutting remaining 25% of the roots on one side and 25% of the roots on the opposite side - Think of a clock face 3-6 & 9-12. I would let the backbuds grow as freely as possible to retain vigor unless they are causing an issue.
- wait 3 months or until the tree is still strong. Dig it up, cut back any bad roots, Put in in a bonsai pot. it should be covered in fine roots and finer growth.
- wait 6 months or until it is showing strong signs of health before doing major styling on branches.

[GavinG]

And don't forget - Mackay Qld may treat trees easier than Melbourne... Get some local knowledge as well.

Gavin