AusBonsai

I thought I posted this one here before but can't find it
I had to pick up some pavers from a lady for work. This tree was the cause of the pavers lifting and after I pointed this out to her she said it was coming out. Well....I couldn't resist. It was growing in very sandy soil so was an easy dig and came out in about 20 mins. It has a nice base to it. It has started budding everywhere which is
I know I need to be patient but figured no point wasting energy on a trunk I have to loose anyway so might as loose it soon and let the rest of the tree use the extra energy.
This will obviously be a broom style unless someone can come up with something really creative
Soooooo.. which trunk do I loose and which front is best. I have my ideas but thought I'd throw it out there to see what people think. By the way, yes it is a two person lift. Some other angles I know it's a long term project but they grow like weeds so hoping it's not too long. Oh, and by the way I'm happy the trunk size so ne comments about putting it back in the ground thanks

All comments welcome
Josh

Base C is the pick for me. Given that a large amount of carving will be involved no matter what, I say pick the most attractive base and work from there.


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View C has the most attractive nabari, but the trunk angle is all wrong. If you can lean the front trunk back to at least near vertical without lifting the base roots out of the soil level, then I'd go with C. Otherwise, A would be my choice as the trunk angle makes a better starter, and the nebari is still pretty good IMO.
Either way, I'd remove the rear trunk of either view, and reduce the height slightly before growing a new leader.

Hi Josh,

Nice pick up. Front A or C work for me. I like the way the extending root balances the lean of the trunk, classic example of a slant style.

What you do with it also depends on where you get new shoots, it wouldn't have to be a broom. I don't have a lot of experience with dug up lillypilly's but make sure the shoots you want are strong and established before you decide which ones you want i.e. give yourself some options this early in development. Obviously any major branches or new leaders are going to take a long time to thicken sufficiently to work with that massive trunk but you said yourself this is a long project.

Well done in spotting the tree and transplanting it successfully. Look forward to future updates.

Matt.

Firstly you are officially mad - and welcome to the gang. I too like C and I would remove the "back trunk" and reduce the thinner one by about 20 cm or so, and then let it rest for at least twelve months. I have a few really big bonsai and they are so worthwhile and giving that you wonder why you bother with anything under a two person carry.
Good luck with it and please keep us posted.

Nate.bonsai wrote:Base C is the pick for me. Given that a large amount of carving will be involved no matter what, I say pick the most attractive base and work from there.


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Yeah C was my pick for nebari but the trunk does lean forwatd quite a bit

wrcmad wrote:View C has the most attractive nabari, but the trunk angle is all wrong. If you can lean the front trunk back to at least near vertical without lifting the base roots out of the soil level, then I'd go with C. Otherwise, A would be my choice as the trunk angle makes a better starter, and the nebari is still pretty good IMO.
Either way, I'd remove the rear trunk of either view, and reduce the height slightly before growing a new leader.

Not sure if I can lean it back without pull I ng the roots out of the soil. A still has a great nebari so also an option. This would mean the trunk leans away from the veiwer.

Matt S wrote:Hi Josh,

Nice pick up. Front A or C work for me. I like the way the extending root balances the lean of the trunk, classic example of a slant style.

What you do with it also depends on where you get new shoots, it wouldn't have to be a broom. I don't have a lot of experience with dug up lillypilly's but make sure the shoots you want are strong and established before you decide which ones you want i.e. give yourself some options this early in development. Obviously any major branches or new leaders are going to take a long time to thicken sufficiently to work with that massive trunk but you said yourself this is a long project.

Well done in spotting the tree and transplanting it successfully. Look forward to future updates.

Matt.

Shoots on this are NOT a problem. Its throwing buds everywhere and i mean everywhere. These grow like weeds here so it should put on good growth once it gets going again.

Watto wrote:Firstly you are officially mad - and welcome to the gang. I too like C and I would remove the "back trunk" and reduce the thinner one by about 20 cm or so, and then let it rest for at least twelve months. I have a few really big bonsai and they are so worthwhile and giving that you wonder why you bother with anything under a two person carry.
Good luck with it and please keep us posted.

Yep always knew I was mad, this just confirms it I see you post something I have to look to see if it's another monster and you rarely disappoint Yeah I find working on some of my small trees frustrating cause its hard to get into the branches, this one I'll just about be able to climb into to wire.


Thanks for the ideas guys. Some good points made and food for thought. I'll sit and look at it some more with above comments noted and see what jumps out at me. I have an idea that I need to work to see if it could work or not. I'll update this thread as it progresses.

Cheers
Josh

Josh wrote:

wrcmad wrote:View C has the most attractive nabari, but the trunk angle is all wrong. If you can lean the front trunk back to at least near vertical without lifting the base roots out of the soil level, then I'd go with C. Otherwise, A would be my choice as the trunk angle makes a better starter, and the nebari is still pretty good IMO.
Either way, I'd remove the rear trunk of either view, and reduce the height slightly before growing a new leader.

Not sure if I can lean it back without pull I ng the roots out of the soil. A still has a great nebari so also an option. This would mean the trunk leans away from the veiwer.

I should have been a bit clearer.
Ideally the base should move away from the viewer, and then move forward leading to the apex. Thus any new leader could be grown forward. It gives better depth and avoids pidgeon breasting.

G'Day Josh,
Wondering how your LP pulled through the transplanting.
Kevin

Yep, me too Josh I would have reduced it a lot more but i am sure you will find your way with it.

Cut it back to the nebari and grow 3 to 5 new trunks.

10 years. easy....

Kevin wrote:G'Day Josh,
Wondering how your LP pulled through the transplanting.
Kevin

Hey Kevin,
It never missed a beat. Just kept on throwing out buds. I haven't done anything with it yet cause I've just been to busy. You inspired me to revisit though Now to make a decision and sharpen the chainsaw

Josh.

bodhidharma wrote:Yep, me too Josh I would have reduced it a lot more but i am sure you will find your way with it.

Yeah probably should have cut shorter probably should have done something with it already probably should do something with now. Where would you cut it ???

treeman wrote:Cut it back to the nebari and grow 3 to 5 new trunks.

10 years. easy....

lp.PNG

Thanks Treeman, remember it's a lilypilly so would only be 5 years like your idea though.

Ok guys and gals, seeing its growth now what's your thoughts. Where do I chop it. Whatever I do it will be a big scare.

Josh.

Thanks Josh,
(Edit) - (We must have been posting at the same time) Spectator only.
That is amazing how well the LP transplanted.
Beside regular water and a sheltered position - any other secret for such a successful transplant?
I have been thinking about the LP, now you and Boics have definitely inspired me.
Time permitting, can you please keep your thread going.
Thanks mate,
Kevin

Kevin wrote:Thanks Josh,
That is amazing how well the LP transplanted.
Beside regular water and a sheltered position - any other secret for such a successful transplant?
I have been thinking about the LP, now you and Boics have definitely inspired me.
Time permitting, can you please keep your thread going.
Thanks mate,
Kevin

Yeah I'll keep this thread as a progression. LP are tough as nails. I watered it twice with seasol during the first week and that was it apart from normal watering. It's planted in 50/50 diatomite/pine bark. This is another one I have although a lot smaller. It is the top out of another tree I had. I trunk chopped it and shoved this bit in the ground and it grew roots. It would be an inch or so thick. As I said they are tough. Josh