Improving roots via air layer

[Andrew F]

Hi there,

Its come time for me to take a few Air layers that were set a few months ago:

Juniper Sabina
Japanese Maple
Peach

Before i remove them from the parent plant can anyone give me a few pointers on repotting them and how to train the nebari straight away???

If pics will help, i can provide them.


Cheers Drew.

[alpineart]

Hi Velvetsicklid , personally i would leave them until winter , with Summer on us it will need to be a very good layer with plenty of roots to survive . Leaving them on will only make them stronger , removing them now will only damage the new developing roots if you were to attempt to spread them to start the process of creating a good Narebri .

Cheers Alpineart

[Gerard]

I am quite confident separating air layered trees in late January, (elms and maples) I have not done junipers. I have had a maple air layer fail because it was left too long the bark healed and the new roots died.
If you separate the new tree now (or any other time) do not mess too much with the delicate new roots, wait until the next repot.

[Matthew]

now should be fine provided aftercare is top notch , dont play with the roots and dont cut the layer to close the them just over pot for a season than next winter cut the layer under the roots back, working the roots also.

[bodhidharma]

Step 1.. Make sure it has enough roots to support the tree If not leave it for a little longer..
Step 2.. Cut the trunk about 100-150mm below the layer as this helps stabilise the tree in the pot.
Step 3..Carefully unwrap the layer and place into a large growing container (already prepared) not a bonsai pot, do not try to untangle the spag moss or roots.
Step 4..slowly fill the soil around the layer until it is buried.
Step 5..Tie the tree into the pot firmly using electric cable or something similar. Tie at branch points on the tree.
Step 6..Move to a protected, dappled shade spot and water from the top, add seasol to the water. Mist a couple of times a day for a week.
Step 7..fertilise in a months time.
Regards,
Bodhi

[makro]

excllent tips bodhi, book marking this for Jan.

[Matthew]

everything bodhi said as i didnt explain very well

[bodhidharma]

everything bodhi said as i didnt explain very well

Yes you said all that Matthew, but i was just a little more concise.

[Andrew F]

Step 1.. Make sure it has enough roots to support the tree If not leave it for a little longer..
Step 2.. Cut the trunk about 100-150mm below the layer as this helps stabilise the tree in the pot.
Step 3..Carefully unwrap the layer and place into a large growing container (already prepared) not a bonsai pot, do not try to untangle the spag moss or roots.
Step 4..slowly fill the soil around the layer until it is buried.
Step 5..Tie the tree into the pot firmly using electric cable or something similar. Tie at branch points on the tree.
Step 6..Move to a protected, dappled shade spot and water from the top, add seasol to the water. Mist a couple of times a day for a week.
Step 7..fertilise in a months time.
Regards,
Bodhi

Thank you Kindly to everyone who has taken the time to post, i think i might leave them till just after christmas any longer and the roots will be punching thru the bag.

Thank you for breaking it down for me Bodhi.

I have some large Nursery pots on stand by, one more question, what sort of mix should I use at this point???

[bodhidharma]

Just use a very free draining mix. If you find you do not have access to materials buy an over the counter premium potting mix and some pine bark nuggets, 3-7mm scoria and purlite. Mix it at a ratio of 2-1-1-1.

[Andrew F]

Just use a very free draining mix. If you find you do not have access to materials buy an over the counter premium potting mix and some pine bark nuggets, 3-7mm scoria and purlite. Mix it at a ratio of 2-1-1-1.

Thank you Kindly Bodhi. Ill keep this thread updated.

[Andrew F]

Severed Both layers today [both had broken thru plastic bags and were drying out too quick]

Im fairly confident that both had enough roots to support the rest of the tree but i think in the next couple of days i might thin out the tops just so i can be sure. Both Layers were soaked in a heavily diluted seasol bath for awhile then potted in a mix of river sand, river gravel and pine bark chips.

First up is the Japanese maple:




My beautiful helper, photogenic as always:



Other half...of the tree. Thinking a nice twin truck shohin



The Sabina:

Note the different colour between layer foliage and that of the parent plant????




The donor tree:




The layer:




I then tied the trees to the pots with twine, secured to trunk and strong branches, happy they wont be up rooted by strong wind. Gave them a good watering making sure there were no air pockets they now reside in shade.

[GavinG]

I'd consider taking at least 2/3 of the foliage off - there's not a lot of root there to sustain so much greenery. Could be wrong, but.

Gavin

[Andrew F]

Thanks for the verification, iv been thinking it about it.

Spose its time to pick and choose as far as styling is concerned...

[shibui]

I'm with Gavin. The maple might wilt and drop a few leaves but they usually manage to survive.
Junipers are different and its likely to try to sustain all the foliage with just those few roots and die in the attempt.
Look for a side shoot to shorten the trunk back to - probably less than half way along that over long trunk and then thin out the side branches that are left - you'll probably need less than a third of them anyway so better off getting rid of them now.

Please post an update with the good or bad news on a couple of months.