JBP for newbie

[Foddy101]

Hi All,

Recently got a nice healthy JPB, I've done a lot of reading on how they grow, decandling etc. Most tutorials seem to be dealing with pines that have much smaller candles that need to be removed rather than how to deal with the larger ones. Do you just let these grow out into branches? Do you apply similar branch selection techniques reducing down to two shoots?? Pics attached any advice welcome!

I am probably just going to let this sit and grow for quite some time but would love to know of anything that would be required at this stage to help down the track.

[Watto]

Would it be possible to put your location in your profile, Bio as advice is most often location specific. Timing actions are a lot different if you live in the Snowy Mountains, Cairns or Alice Springs.

[Foddy101]

Will do, Newcastle NSW FYI

[Ryceman3]

You are correct on 2 counts… that’s a very healthy looking pine, and most info in relation to JBP is focused around decandling on a tree in refinement, rather than working on trees in development… it’s just not as exciting or dramatic I guess.
The other thing you’re right about is this tree needs to grow in order to thicken up a bit and create opportunities for taper. In pines, one of the most common methods to get this done is to grow sacrifice branches. These are branches that have no place in the final design, but are left on the tree and encouraged to extend and develop. Doing this will result in thickening of that branch, and as a by-product thickening of the trunk also, primarily below the branch. Therefore where the sacrifice connects to the rest of the tree is important. Ideally low(ish)… close to the base is good, out of line of sight from the front of the tree is preferable, and if you want it to start doing it’s job quickly make sure it is a robust and healthy branch to begin with. You can even have several sacrifices on the go in different locations on the one tree to maximise the pay off… but of course sacrifice branches are eventually going to be removed, which means cut sites, which take time to heal so keep that in mind. Generally I pick one or two sacrifice branches, strip needles close to the trunk line that are shading/interfering with the growth (or possible growth) of the tree in the area you want to keep and let them run.
Branches that you are interested in keeping in the final design on the other hand are treated differently. If you want them to thicken, you most likely will need them to extend like a sacrifice but leave needles close in as this is where future budding/branching is likely to come from. If you have branch junctions where 3 or more originate, reduce to 2 to avoid knuckles which are generally thought of as unsightly and not very appealing.
To move your tree in the direction of a bonsai, you’ll need to decide where the “front” lies in order to create a strategy using the above info and develop your tree further. All the usual stuff applies in determining that, but on little, developing trunks it can be a bit of guess work as angles and nebari will develop as the tree matures
There’s plenty more but I’ve crapped on enough I think to give you food for thought and most likely confuse you quite a bit.
It really is a healthy looking tree and looks to have plenty of branching/options so you can’t ask for much more to start with.

[shibui]

Pines can produce new buds from any healthy needles so it is possible to cut further back than just the new 'candles'

JBP needles generally live for 3 years then die (meanwhile new needles have grown so the tree always has young foliage)

That means it is possible to allow a JBP to grow for up to 3 years then prune hard back to the lowest healthy needles and still be confident of getting reliable budding and keeping the tree alive and growing. Some experienced growers I know are happy to allow up to 5 years because healthy pines will usually back bud on bare wood where needles have recently dropped. Leaving it for much longer risks ending up with long, bare branches so while allowing the tree to grow is good, leaving them to grow for too long can be a problem.

I think the pictures show some slightly unusual growth for JBP which could mean this is one of the selected cultivars and may need slightly different treatment than straight JBP. Can you tell us where this tree came from? Is it grafted?

[Foddy101]

You are correct it is a Kotoboki-ono variety. I got it from Bonsai World...not sure if its grafted or not.

[shibui]

Most of the named varieties are grafted as that's the easiest and quickest way to get trees going. Grafts are not always a problem but occasionally it will cause swelling or one section will grow faster than the other leading to an abrupt change of thickness in the lower trunk.
At this stage it should be relatively easy to spot any graft union.
I just checked on Kotobuki Ono pine. It appears to be a moderately fast growing dwarf variety with a narrow upright habit. 1.2m tall after 10 years?? (I assume that is without pruning)
The dwarf growth habit makes development and maintenance just a little difference from standard JBP. Most aspects are similar but you will need to remove more buds and branches on this one.
Not sure what the upright habit will do for you. May need more attention to wiring to get spreading branches.