DEVELOPING FIGS-TRUNKS AND BASES
Posted: February 13th, 2009, 6:40 am
Hi everyone,
I have read some postings from beginners who are buying some ordinary stock and appear to need some guidance. I hope this article helps slightly in the development of a Fig.
cheers
Dave
Growing quality bonsai from seedlings is a slow process and I, being rather impatient, tend to be at
odds with a lot of other enthusiasts, in advocating the purchase of better quality raw material that has
been purpose grown for Bonsai culture.
Having said that, if you are a dedicated “seedling” person, I will share some growing techniques that I
use to develop “taper” and “trunkline movement”, two essentials in the production of a bonsai with
that “wow factor”. Just planting a seedling into a tiny bonsai pot will probably never amount to
anything of quality.
Most enthusiasts should be able to keep a bonsai in good health and develop either “structured”
branches ( left, right, rear ) or a “canopy” design, so the distinguishing feature that separate trees on the
show bench, is the character of the trunk.
Over the years I have purchased some very large old Figs that I subsequently restyled and this has saved
me many years work, however, in this article I will outline my methods employed to grow quality stock
from starter plants.
Firstly, all seedlings are Not the same. Select the one that has some natural taper, an even root spread
rather than a tree with a large root on one side or pick one that is different and has “character”. These
attributes will ensure a headstart in the development of your future bonsai.
DEVELOPING TAPER :-
It is obvious that a trunk needs to be thicker than any branches above it, to ensure it is capable
of supporting them. On this basis if we grow a thick and heavy “sacrifice branch”, the trunk
below it will grow bigger to support it. The more “sacrifice branches”, the more thickening of
the trunk below them.
The single most important thing to remember is that the “sacrifice branches” should be as low
on the trunk as possible. Further, the main trunk line should be shortened to ensure that due to
apical dominance, the top of your tree doesn’t become too thick and most of the tree’s energy
is channeled into the sacrifice branches.
Whether your intention is to grow a very large tree or something smaller doesn’t matter, the
principles are the same with the only difference being the size of the growing container. Leaf
size doesn’t matter during this grow on period, in fact the bigger the better. Fertilize regularly
for the best results, using a high nitrogen fertilizer.
If your trunk’s apex becomes too thick, it can also be treated as a sacrifice branch and removed,
utilizing a new shoot on the trunk as a “leader” for the new trunkline.
When the trunk’s taper is acceptable, all other sacrifice branches are removed and with the help
of sealing paste, should heal over in no time. Note that the warmer months are the best time to
work on figs when the sap is flowing.
DEVELOPING TRUNK MOVEMENT:-
Because Figs shoot back on old wood, you should always have an abundant choice for future branching in the later development of the tree. As such there is no need to worry about branch placement at this time, our main priority is to establish an interesting trunk.
In conjunction with the development of “Taper”, we can cut the trunk on an angle just above any bud and use this bud as a new leader.
As can be seen in photos, this cut and grow method certainly changes the direction of the trunk line and creates more interest. The scars heal quickly and soon there is no evidence of the cuts.
Branch development and defoliation techniques will be covered later.
The bottom photo has been grown on, in a bonsai pot only and has had its sacrifice branches removed.(see scars)
I am growing a lot of my figs short and squat to accentuate their wide bases.
I have read some postings from beginners who are buying some ordinary stock and appear to need some guidance. I hope this article helps slightly in the development of a Fig.
cheers
Dave
Growing quality bonsai from seedlings is a slow process and I, being rather impatient, tend to be at
odds with a lot of other enthusiasts, in advocating the purchase of better quality raw material that has
been purpose grown for Bonsai culture.
Having said that, if you are a dedicated “seedling” person, I will share some growing techniques that I
use to develop “taper” and “trunkline movement”, two essentials in the production of a bonsai with
that “wow factor”. Just planting a seedling into a tiny bonsai pot will probably never amount to
anything of quality.
Most enthusiasts should be able to keep a bonsai in good health and develop either “structured”
branches ( left, right, rear ) or a “canopy” design, so the distinguishing feature that separate trees on the
show bench, is the character of the trunk.
Over the years I have purchased some very large old Figs that I subsequently restyled and this has saved
me many years work, however, in this article I will outline my methods employed to grow quality stock
from starter plants.
Firstly, all seedlings are Not the same. Select the one that has some natural taper, an even root spread
rather than a tree with a large root on one side or pick one that is different and has “character”. These
attributes will ensure a headstart in the development of your future bonsai.
DEVELOPING TAPER :-
It is obvious that a trunk needs to be thicker than any branches above it, to ensure it is capable
of supporting them. On this basis if we grow a thick and heavy “sacrifice branch”, the trunk
below it will grow bigger to support it. The more “sacrifice branches”, the more thickening of
the trunk below them.
The single most important thing to remember is that the “sacrifice branches” should be as low
on the trunk as possible. Further, the main trunk line should be shortened to ensure that due to
apical dominance, the top of your tree doesn’t become too thick and most of the tree’s energy
is channeled into the sacrifice branches.
Whether your intention is to grow a very large tree or something smaller doesn’t matter, the
principles are the same with the only difference being the size of the growing container. Leaf
size doesn’t matter during this grow on period, in fact the bigger the better. Fertilize regularly
for the best results, using a high nitrogen fertilizer.
If your trunk’s apex becomes too thick, it can also be treated as a sacrifice branch and removed,
utilizing a new shoot on the trunk as a “leader” for the new trunkline.
When the trunk’s taper is acceptable, all other sacrifice branches are removed and with the help
of sealing paste, should heal over in no time. Note that the warmer months are the best time to
work on figs when the sap is flowing.
DEVELOPING TRUNK MOVEMENT:-
Because Figs shoot back on old wood, you should always have an abundant choice for future branching in the later development of the tree. As such there is no need to worry about branch placement at this time, our main priority is to establish an interesting trunk.
In conjunction with the development of “Taper”, we can cut the trunk on an angle just above any bud and use this bud as a new leader.
As can be seen in photos, this cut and grow method certainly changes the direction of the trunk line and creates more interest. The scars heal quickly and soon there is no evidence of the cuts.
Branch development and defoliation techniques will be covered later.
The bottom photo has been grown on, in a bonsai pot only and has had its sacrifice branches removed.(see scars)
I am growing a lot of my figs short and squat to accentuate their wide bases.
was 30 today in the middle of winter 
MM these figs look like they all have good potential and are on there way. You dont have any frost issues with burnt leaves? they all look quite happy even with snow on them.
