Melaleuca Rhaphiophylla Cuttings

[deeno]

I have one of these in my side yard and I have attempted to strike cuttings from it multiple times. They grow around my local area and I would really like to try to grow one myself but I haven’t seen any in Nurseries (even the local community nursery that only stocks natives) and considering I have one in my yard I’d rather not pay for one if I can get one for nothing.

I read that most Melaleucas strike relatively easily but I have only had success with M. Nesophilla. (I had that in a clear plastic storage box I was using as a mini greenhouse and with the pot sitting in a water bath).

Is there some trick to this, can someone step through what they do to get them to work and is it too late in the season to try again?

Thanks.

[robb63]

Hi Deeno
Why not get a bit of a head start with an airlayer.
There are plenty of examples on this site to help you if needed

[Ryceman3]

Hi Deeno
Why not get a bit of a head start with an airlayer.
There are plenty of examples on this site to help you if needed

100% agree with that. The fact you have it in your backyard and (I presume) can monitor it regularly seals the deal completely for me. Look for a good spot with a bit of movement/interest in the potential trunk and nice branching etc.. and layer just below.
Here's a link to a thread I did on airlayering a melaleuca, but there are sure to be others if you do a search.
https://www.ausbonsai.com.au/forum/view ... =9&t=19321
Good luck with it - there are some great examples of this species as bonsai posted by Pup amongst others if you need inspiration.

[shibui]

While layers will give thicker trunks suitable shaped branches are not always available. Even branches that initially look good often end up being less than desirable once in a pot.
Smaller material is far more flexible in regards to trunk shape, size, etc.
I have never grown M. raphiophilla over here but I think I may have some seeds somewhere. Should find them and sow now.

I can't find any advice for cuttings of M. raph. but so many other Mels strike readily it is worth trying again. The box you described should be good for cuttings.
In general, half hard wood strikes best so take cuttings from spring growth from mid - late summer. Look for sections of stem that will bend a bit but crack when bent further. Very soft fresh wood strikes well but can be challenging to maintain enough humidity to keep them healthy while roots grow. Older wood is hardier but seems to have less ability to make roots so half hard sections are good.
Easy to strike species can root in soil or potting mix but these media have pathogens that can invade slower to strike species. Inert media is better. Use a good propagating mix. 50/50 perlite/peat(or coir) is used a lot. Same ratio of coarse sand peat is also good.
Morning cuttings are usually better hydrated so take material early for better results.
Cutting material can be stored in plastic in the fridge for a few days if necessary but the earlier you do them the better the results should be.
I prefer sections around 100-200 mm long. Remove lower leaves. Some leaves will help rooting but too many can stress the cuttings so reduce leaf to around 1/3?
Dip the base of cuttings in rooting compound available in powder, liquid and gel forms. I prefer gel as it also contains nutrient which can help kickstart roots. Base of cuttings should be cut fresh to help uptake of rooting compound so recut the base if it has been exposed to air for longer than 5 minutes or so.
Use a stick to make holes in the propagating mix for each cutting. There's no point adding rooting compound if you just scrape it off again by shoving the cutting into the mix.
Water well then place in the cutting area. Good light is important but strong afternoon sun could cook your babies.

We have found that cutting ability is linked to parent health and vitality. Cuttings from garden grown trees strike better than the same species in the bush because the garden ones generally have better nutrient and water. There also appears to be some individual genetic ability to strike. Cuttings from one plant will give a better rate than another plant nearby. If you still have problems with cuttings from your tree it could be worth trying another tree for cutting material.

Most advice for propagating this species is around seed. Should be easy to grow from seed. Seed will add a couple of years to the project but you will have nice soft, flexible stems to work with initially.
You could also look for young stock in local native nurseries. They might cost a few $ each but you will be a year or so ahead.

[deeno]

While layers will give thicker trunks suitable shaped branches are not always available. Even branches that initially look good often end up being less than desirable once in a pot.
Smaller material is far more flexible in regards to trunk shape, size, etc.
I have never grown M. raphiophilla over here but I think I may have some seeds somewhere. Should find them and sow now.

I can't find any advice for cuttings of M. raph. but so many other Mels strike readily it is worth trying again. The box you described should be good for cuttings.
In general, half hard wood strikes best so take cuttings from spring growth from mid - late summer. Look for sections of stem that will bend a bit but crack when bent further. Very soft fresh wood strikes well but can be challenging to maintain enough humidity to keep them healthy while roots grow. Older wood is hardier but seems to have less ability to make roots so half hard sections are good.
Easy to strike species can root in soil or potting mix but these media have pathogens that can invade slower to strike species. Inert media is better. Use a good propagating mix. 50/50 perlite/peat(or coir) is used a lot. Same ratio of coarse sand peat is also good.
Morning cuttings are usually better hydrated so take material early for better results.
Cutting material can be stored in plastic in the fridge for a few days if necessary but the earlier you do them the better the results should be.
I prefer sections around 100-200 mm long. Remove lower leaves. Some leaves will help rooting but too many can stress the cuttings so reduce leaf to around 1/3?
Dip the base of cuttings in rooting compound available in powder, liquid and gel forms. I prefer gel as it also contains nutrient which can help kickstart roots. Base of cuttings should be cut fresh to help uptake of rooting compound so recut the base if it has been exposed to air for longer than 5 minutes or so.
Use a stick to make holes in the propagating mix for each cutting. There's no point adding rooting compound if you just scrape it off again by shoving the cutting into the mix.
Water well then place in the cutting area. Good light is important but strong afternoon sun could cook your babies.

We have found that cutting ability is linked to parent health and vitality. Cuttings from garden grown trees strike better than the same species in the bush because the garden ones generally have better nutrient and water. There also appears to be some individual genetic ability to strike. Cuttings from one plant will give a better rate than another plant nearby. If you still have problems with cuttings from your tree it could be worth trying another tree for cutting material.

Most advice for propagating this species is around seed. Should be easy to grow from seed. Seed will add a couple of years to the project but you will have nice soft, flexible stems to work with initially.
You could also look for young stock in local native nurseries. They might cost a few $ each but you will be a year or so ahead.

Thanks Shibui for taking the time and effort to provide all that information. It’s much appreciated! I’ve searched the topic a lot but I haven’t been able to find a detailed procedure for propagating with cuttings, just the standard generic one copy and pasted onto different websites. I have tried some of the things you mentioned but to understand things like needing a fresh cut when treating with hormone gel and the details of selecting the best type of cuttings will I imagine make a significant difference.

I have a large seed collection but it’s a little disorganised so if I manage to propagate one from seed it will be a while before I know. There’s only a few that I genuinely know what they are. I’ll have to work out a better system because I’ve managed to grow about 5-10 seedlings this year and I’d like to try again.

[shibui]

I have a large seed collection but it’s a little disorganised so if I manage to propagate one from seed it will be a while before I know. There’s only a few that I genuinely know what they are. I’ll have to work out a better system because I’ve managed to grow about 5-10 seedlings this year and I’d like to try again.

Welcome to the obsessive seed collectors club. I have a similar sounding store of seed over this side. Way more than I can ever grow but maybe I'll need some of them one day