AusBonsai

Melaleuca linarifolia 'purpurea compacta' 1

These guys are really hardy. They tolerate wet conditions and myrtle rust. They're basically the commandos of the Melaleuca world.
They have very small foliage, and you can reduce a massive amount of the root system.

For better recovery after a root prune, I highly recommend leaving most of the foliage on the tree.
However, this is all in proportion: If you remove a significant amount like 80% of the roots (like the first root reduction from nursery stock, then I would normally reduce about 40% of the foliage mass.
But with regular annual root prunes, I wouldn't reduce the foliage at all.

This tree was purchased from the Big Flower, at Ourimbah on the Central Coast for $9.95 in an 8inch tub.
20Feb2020
15Jan2021
10Jan2022


I realize its not quite yet 01.01.2023, but its easier to post that its 2023, so looking back people can easily distinguish that its a year apart. Its only 1 day before the actual date.
01Jan2023

Awesome little tree Rory. I’m keen to follow this along and see how it develops. Thanks for the information, it’s great that you guys share especially for beginners like me I haven’t heard of purpurea compacta and will keep a look out for one! It looks great so far!

Thanks Rory,
In regards to the root trim aspect, do you think there is any merit using sphagnum moss on natives? I know Peter Chan raves about it for his trees, and I wonder how it would go for our delicate roots?
Thanks

Stevie_B wrote: ↑January 18th, 2023, 10:06 am Thanks Rory,
In regards to the root trim aspect, do you think there is any merit using sphagnum moss on natives? I know Peter Chan raves about it for his trees, and I wonder how it would go for our delicate roots?
Thanks

I’ve not used it. Losing moisture isn’t something I have a problem with. Perhaps I could see the benefit on material that doesn’t shoot roots from close to the trunk, but most natives I’ve grown will send out roots in a mix of a standard growing medium, mixed with River sand. The river sand is heavy and holds the tree in place VERY well after a repot. Also, the river sand provides exceptional drainage, and combined with a mix of any standard bonsai medium, it then doesn’t have the mix staying too wet too long. For example with Casuarinas and Melaluecas, I know I can pot into this type of a mix and it will shoot roots regardless of the centre root ball drying out a little bit before the edges of the pot. So personally I don’t see a benefit of sphagnum moss. But I also don’t collect material from the wild… sphagnum moss be a benefit for that.

On the flip side… if I used sphagnum moss on a Banksia, I’d be very worried about root-rot. It’s all subjective to your type of mix and micro climate that you keep them in.

03Nov2023

Placed into an Esther Griffiths (Walsall) bonsai pot (United Kingdom). Esther makes beautiful pots.

It was recently repotted, which is why it looks a bit raggedy, as the new foliage will soon regain its vigor and look better soon.

I've separated the cloud growths a bit more... yet I absolutely detest bonsai that are displayed with definitive clouds and nothing in between. Mels and Eucs pretty much never grow like that. From a long distance away it may seem like they do, but the closer you get the more you realize that there are multitudes of growth between the clouds... and this growth just hasn't developed enough to be recognizable as a 'cloud' from further away. You'll see endless shoots all along the long branches taking advantage of the sparse cavity and the better areas of sun.

I've trimmed the foliage a lot and now set the structure more in place for its continued development.
10th May 2024

Near me the paperbarks grow mostly straight branches across the first 2/3rds of their length. The remainder is very loopy. Difficult to replicate because of wiring below the horizontal and the tendency to grow new shoots. I think I know what I want to try and replicate in miniature though.