Air Layering

[SuperBonSaiyan]

Pines as cuttings and layers are just the tip of the bonsai myth iceberg.

I'd be interested to know more about what's a myth in bonsai, especially concerning pines and junipers.

The air layer one is something I'm hoping to try out on white pines.

[Daluke]

I got a mugo to layer.

A member of my club has lots of success with shimpaku.

[Daryl R]

Is there a correct way to cut off the "Top Section" of an A/L?
[image][/image]
Picked up a Crepe Myrtle with a nice trunk line fm Bunnings. A/L went on in Mar 21 & now ready to separate.
Keeping the bottom section (in the pot), read that a 'V' cut in the top of the bottom trunk produces nice growth for a Broom style, but other wise does it make any difference... V notch, straight across, slanting downward towards the back???

[shibui]

For ease just cut the stem below the layer any angle you can for a start. You can gently lift the roots a little if you need a bit more trunk on the base section.
Probably better to leave the layer roots alone this time as they can be quite brittle while still young. Comb out a little sphagnum if you are game and can do that without breaking too many roots but I usually just plant the whole ball as is for the first year. Next year the new roots will be much better attached so will survive handling. Then you can remove any remaining sphagnum, cut any remaining trunk below the roots and lay the roots out flat for future nebari.
I would normally just leave the lower trunk with whatever cut I removed the layer with until new shoots form. Chinese elms bud all round the edges of a chop so wherever you cut those will be the new top of trunk and can be cut more carefully. Most other species shoot from old nodes so shoots can come from anywhere on the trunk. Until those sprout you don't know where the top branches will be so just leave the cut top and wait until you get new shoots before making your final cut(s)
A V cut between 2 opposite branches will give a better transition from thicker trunk to the new, thinner branches. It will also reduce some of the swelling that often occurs with 2 or more branches close together.
Wait until the new leader shoots are strong before attempting a V cut. Like the new roots new branches are not well attached and tend to break off at the base with only gentle pressure if you slip while cutting.

[shibui]

I'd be interested to know more about what's a myth in bonsai, especially concerning pines and junipers.

We should probably start a new thread concerning bonsai myths misinformation.

Michael Hagedorn - an US bonsai professional published a book called Bonsai Heresy with many common myths. - https://stonelantern.com/products/bonsai-heresy

Not sure if it is still available from Stone Lantern or elsewhere.

[Daryl R]

Thanks Shibui; So that's my intention... cut just below the A/L, leaving the coir intact (roots look too fragile/ entwine d to try to reduce any of the coir).

Hopefully the top will survive but the bottom trunk movement was my priority...

[shibui]

Just re-read the earlier post and see that this is NOT to be broom style. In that case V cut is not desirable.
Leave the chopped trunk to produce new buds. Most will form toward the top, closer to the chop so cut according to where you want the new shoots to emerge.
Allow the new shoots to grow to gain strength and become more firmly attached to the trunk. While they grow review the trunk shape, nebari, any branches, features and faults to determine best view taking into account where these new shoots are growing to pick the best one as the new leader which will continue the trunk.
When the new leader is strong enough - 3-6 months, sometimes a year - recut the trunk at an angle to merge the thicker old trunk to the thinner new leader. Try to make that angle cut at the rear of the selected front to hide it while it heals but sometimes a side cut works well too. Seal the new cut to help healing.
Let the new leader grow free for a year or 2, maybe more until the new leader gains enough thickness to look like it is a natural extension of the lower trunk. Some wiring for trunk direction and movement may be useful in these stages but beware that the new leader will grow and thicken rapidly so watch closely for wire marks or you'll need to start over. For fast growing species I prefer to allow the successive chops and new shoots to provide the changes of direction/bends.
If you are lucky enough to have well placed shoots for branches they can be wired when young and flexible to set initial branch angles. Allow these to grow to thicken but not too much. Branches that get as thick as the trunk don't look good. More regular trimming will limit thickening, add bends and ramification to the branches. Watch out for wire marking. It is easy to forget branch wires and marks are really obvious on main branches, esp those species with smooth bark.

Chop new leader a little above previous cut site and repeat the process to develop more taper and branching. Each successive chop requires less and less time to match the sections below. After several chop and grow cycles you can get down to several cuts each season to manage taper and thickening. Eventually you'll be down to just normal maintenance trimming.

Don't worry too much if a branch breaks off while you try to wire. You'll almost certainly get new buds from around the base where it broke and can start again - a little more carefully 2nd time round!

[SuperBonSaiyan]

I'd be interested to know more about what's a myth in bonsai, especially concerning pines and junipers.

We should probably start a new thread concerning bonsai myths misinformation.

Michael Hagedorn - an US bonsai professional published a book called Bonsai Heresy with many common myths. - https://stonelantern.com/products/bonsai-heresy

Not sure if it is still available from Stone Lantern or elsewhere.

I've got that on my list to borrow next from the club library. Looking forward to reading it and learning what is a myth.

The good thing is I'm fairly new to all this so I haven't learned too much yet that will need to be unlearned. I also like experimenting by nature so even if someone says you can't do something (air layer a pine), I'll try it out if the cost isn't too high (wouldn't try it at the base of a $100+ tree for example, but I would try it out on smaller branches.)

[Daryl R]

Hi shibui, thanks again.

"V" cut was mentioned in Deborah KORESHOFF's book at the preferred method for creating Broom style but not what I'm doing here.

Think I have it sorted, will chopthis arvo, will post progressi e photos.

[terryb]

For ease just cut the stem below the layer any angle you can for a start. You can gently lift the roots a little if you need a bit more trunk on the base section.
Probably better to leave the layer roots alone this time as they can be quite brittle while still young. Comb out a little sphagnum if you are game and can do that without breaking too many roots but I usually just plant the whole ball as is for the first year. Next year the new roots will be much better attached so will survive handling. Then you can remove any remaining sphagnum, cut any remaining trunk below the roots and lay the roots out flat for future nebari.

After you remove the layer from the parent plant, you can also put a screw through the bottom of a plastic pot and into the trunk section below the roots (if it is long enough) to stabilise the layer in the new pot until the roots become less brittle. Adding a couple of ties at the top of the pot will further stabilise the new layer.

[Daryl R]

Hello Terry,
It is in 8" pot, so will be a long screw
But securing a cutting in a potisalways interesting.

[Ryceman3]

Hello Terry,
It is in 8" pot, so will be a long screw
But securing a cutting in a potisalways interesting.

I think Terry means like this ... the screw doesnt need to be that long.

layer.jpg

[KIRKY]

I believe that the original question pertaining to the V cut is for the original top of the parent tree not the air layer.
In some of the older books on bonsai years ago it was suggested to cut a tree flat across the top then to cut a V into that flat top or even two V’s if the trunk is large enough to create a cross looking down on the flat top in order to create two or four (if crossed) new branch tops for a future broom style tree. The only tree I came across recently with this technique done to it is a Chinese Elm belonging to Tasmania Heritage Bonsai on their Facebook site.
Closest thing I could find to show and explain this technique is this site by Curt Drury Creating a Broom Style Bonsai
For anyone interested in the technique or wanting to post photos here.
Cheers
Kirky

[Daryl R]

Thankyou Ryceman; yes, that makes sense

Thanks Kirky; the Koreshoff book was referring to a Chinese Elm.

[terryb]

I think Terry means like this ... the screw doesnt need to be that long.

Bingo!