Air Layering

[TimS]

I thought about buying that shishi more than a few times hahaha

When you do the layer i would cut the branch off at that time, it won't affect the rooting as it will root at the green line, and removing it will make your life much easier to get the bag of moss tied on well

[SuperBonSaiyan]

I'm interested in the science behind air-layering.

Referring to this image:

As far as I can work out (generally speaking) when we ring-bark the tree, we remove the bark, phloem and cambium, and we expose the xylem.

By doing this, we effectively cut off water and nutrient transport from the phloem layer, but the layer can still survive (temporarily) because the xylem layer also transports water and nutrients (sap).

We want to make sure the cambium is cleanly removed, as cambium can reform into phloem (callous?) and potentially bridge the gap we've created.

I'm keen to learn more - E.g.:
- which layer do the roots originate from? bark, sylem, phloem?)
- is anything I've written above incorrect?
- what other types of tissue make up a callous (if any)?
- anything else about how air-layers work

[shibui]

As I understand it, cambium is undifferentated cells that can form whatever the tree needs. Cambium closer to the outside forms new bark, Cambium closer to the inside forms new layers of xylem (sapwood). If cambium is exposed to air it forms callus to cover the wound. If cambium is exposed to moisture it forms roots.
In layering, roots originate from the cambium layer immediately above the girdle.

Bark (periderm) is essentially dead cells that are retained to give the plant a protective coating. Therefore no plants, roots or shoots will grow from bark layers. Buds that do grow from older, bare sections of the tree originate in the cambium layer beneath the bark and push their way through to grow.

There's a good post on the science of air layering on Bonsai nut that may help - https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/the-s ... ing.27034/

[SuperBonSaiyan]

Shin-Deshojo air layer that I thought was dead for sure (it only had one wispy little root) is leafing out now. Loving the red colour

Hopefully this means the layer was successful, but I dare not inspect the roots until next winter.

[Daluke]

Put it on a tray of gravel. If roots pop out from bottom you are good

[TimIAm]

Question was asked earlier in the thread but didn't get a reply... I want to confirm if the best time to layer JM is after the new growth has hardened off?

I have a JM which has been ground grown for 10 years and it has one small bud low down that I'm going to rebuild from. I want to give it the best chance of success.

Due to recent warm weather the buds are ready to go. Anyone have any suggestions as to when is a good time? Just mentioning again that I'm in Sydney, so I'm already getting Spring growth on most of my trees.

[TimS]

Question was asked earlier in the thread but didn't get a reply... I want to confirm if the best time to layer JM is after the new growth has hardened off?

I have a JM which has been ground grown for 10 years and it has one small bud low down that I'm going to rebuild from. I want to give it the best chance of success.

Due to recent warm weather the buds are ready to go. Anyone have any suggestions as to when is a good time? Just mentioning again that I'm in Sydney, so I'm already getting Spring growth on most of my trees.

Yep after the leaves have hardened off. Here in Melbourne i start basically all my layers from late september but more likely October just to be safe but basically once the leaves have hardened off you're right to go

[austindrake]

What about when to sever a layer from the mother tree? I have a few layers on a mate's ornamental plum which appear to have been successful now, having left them on over winter.

The tree has only just begun to flower, and has not yet opened any leaf buds - is there likely to be enough energy stored in the branch to sever the tree prior to leaf opening, assuming the roots look plentiful enough? Or is it best to wait until the leaves have at least completely opened? Or better even to wait until they've hardened?

[TimS]

When to sever is a less precise question. I've had JM's I was happy to separate inside 8 weeks, and others I've left on for 18 months.

As a rule for any and all species if I see a good healthy set of roots around the circumference of the moss then I'm generally happy to separate. If I see only a few roots I'll leave it on until I see more. Can't be much more specific than that

[Dean.C]

Wondering what you guys think about this video ?
" How to Double Air Layer "
Seems a bit risky as airlayer roots are really fragile but something i would'nt mind trying at some stage .
I dunno how to embed sorry.

https://youtu.be/10xgBb6PDck

[Stevie_B]

IMG_4456.jpeg

IMG_4457.jpeg

If this takes off, I really feel that it will make me look like a much better practitioner than I am

[SuperBonSaiyan]

Has anyone started their layers this year yet?

I've done a few JM's - going to do a few more + shimpaku, JBP, and ume soon.

Waiting for soft growth to harden on swamp cypress before I attempt that, and waiting for buds to pop on golden elm.

I learned from last year and I've been using sphagnum that's not as wet this time around.

[TimS]

Very close to starting mine, I was checking the trees I want to go yesterday. Some not quite ready, others can be started

My list is

JM straight species thick trunk with crap roots
JM Shishigashira
JM Kamagata
JM Arakawa
Trident maple maybe but tree not looking healthy enough for it ATM
Prunus mume various
Trialling JWP, no expectations of it

[TimIAm]

Looking for suggestions. Last year I started this large air layer on a mature tree. I think it's a juniper, but possibly a cypress.

The branch is about as thick as a wrist. The branch had a fair bit of foliage and is still happily growing and having some growth this spring. So, I'm satisfied conditions are still good and the layer hasn't failed.

To date it has only calloused over. It is still fair from rejoining the bottom as I put a fair bit of distance between the top and bottom ring cuts.

Initially, I added rooting liquid but nothing since. I have heard of layers taking years, so I'm happy to stay patient, but if there is anything I should be doing, I'd appreciate the advice?

airlayerj.jpg

[SuperBonSaiyan]

Looking for suggestions. Last year I started this large air layer on a mature tree. I think it's a juniper, but possibly a cypress.

The branch is about as thick as a wrist. The branch had a fair bit of foliage and is still happily growing and having some growth this spring. So, I'm satisfied conditions are still good and the layer hasn't failed.

To date it has only calloused over. It is still fair from rejoining the bottom as I put a fair bit of distance between the top and bottom ring cuts.

Initially, I added rooting liquid but nothing since. I have heard of layers taking years, so I'm happy to stay patient, but if there is anything I should be doing, I'd appreciate the advice?

airlayerj.jpg

I know some conifers could take longer than deciduous, so I'd just keep the sphagnum damp and continue to wait. I don't think applying more rooting hormone could hurt either. I mixed powder into water and applied with a syringe last year on some shimpaku layers.