Some Air Layering Experiments

[CommonCalluna]

Hello there, new to the community here but really excited about joining.

In between the deluges in Melbourne yesterday I decided to take my first try at air layering.

I thought I'd share what I've done, and how it goes. Feedback and suggestions are welcome.

The first tree I tried it on is a new Chinese Elm, it's been pumping out growth since I repotted it after buying. (I've moved all my baby bonsai's into grow pots, both to encourage thickness and growth, and because I'm a beginner and the heatwaves in summer will be brutal, more soil means I have a greater margin for error on the 40c days.) I believe the tree will look better if I take off the middle branch as it diminishes the taper effect from root to crown.
So I've given it a go.
For such a small tree I found some 30ml dressing containers at my local $2 shop, poked a bunch of holes in the bottom, and cut a slit for the trunk.

For substrate for all of these air layers I've used a mix of peat moss and perlite.
I've had bad luck using spaghnum moss on anything but my carnivorous plants, it seems to either stay way too wet and drown the plant, or soak all the water intended for the plant into itself and leave the plant thirsty.
I was looking to try coconut coir on at least one of these, but 3 local Bunnings were all out, so peat moss it is.


Some photos of the Chinese Elm







I've also tried this process on a neglected lilypilly that's been growing despite the lack of care.
I think the base could make a nice open base for a bonsai tree one day, especially with all the growth it's been shooting out this spring.

I apparently have a thing for twin trunks as both my Chinese elm air layer and this Lilly pilly air layer are (hopefully) going to give me some twin trunk trees to develop if I'm successful.

Pictures of the Lilly Pilly.

The tree I have


The tree I want


The air layer




Finally, and on a bit of a whim, I've tried on an olive. This olive was given to me as a rescue plant by my sister who couldn't be bothered caring for it. It's since flourished as it's grown and last year gave me its first fruits.
I can't see a clear amazing tree here, but I'm interested in both olives as bonsai and air layering, so I figured I'd give it a crack on a branch that gives me a lot of future options if the air layer is successful.

Pictures of the olive.




I'm taking inspiration from 'Growing Bonsai by Jelle' and used small seedling pots to hold the moss, allowing me to water and check on the air layers easily. I wonder if anyone here has strong opinions for or against this? Or for or against the tightly wrapped glad wrap?
I'm somewhat worried about a closed gladwrap set up drying out, or growing mould instead of roots, which is why I've opted for the more open pot option. Though the air layer on my Chinese elm does have a lid.

So now to sit back and wait 2 months and see what happens. I'm very excited and I really really hope they strike.

If I may ask a question of some of the more experienced growers here, when do you seperate your air layers? My reading tells me early summer, is this still a good option in a SE Aussie climate where our mid summers reach over 40c several days in a row? Or should I leave it on the parent tree for the heat waves and look for a cooler week to seperate the air layers?

We'll see if the clear v white v black pots make any difference. The olive and lilypilly trees are in quite a sunny spot in my backyard. One pot reflecting get and one pot absorbing heat might make a difference? Who knows? But I can't wait to find out, I find the whole air layering process fascinating and I just wanted to give it a go

Thanks for reading my post, feedback, suggestions and discussion very welcomed.

[melbrackstone]

Good going there. As you gain experience and work out what works best you can start looking for opportunities to layer branches or trunks with movement already there. Also you'll find you can get larger sizes on some trees, widths of branches etc. It's all a learning experience, and can be as addictive as bonsai in itself. I'm in Brisbane and air layers at this time of year can take anything from 6 weeks to 6 months, depending on the species. The clear plastic ones are easier to see through, when new roots are apparent. Good luck.

[shibui]

I agree no differences between clear and dark cover for layers. Roots grow just as well but you can see how new roots are developing through clear without opening.
Open pot is fine when you can water daily. In the garden where watering is not regular closed layer is more convenient. I’ve never had problems with mould in closed layers.

[BonsaiBobbie]

Nice cuts

[CommonCalluna]

Thankyou all!

Sounds like I'll have to be on the lookout for clear pots to add to my already extensive collection of garden pots. I wonder how glad hubby will be

Good going there. As you gain experience and work out what works best you can start looking for opportunities to layer branches or trunks with movement already there. Also you'll find you can get larger sizes on some trees, widths of branches etc.

This is my hope, at the moment I'm working on convenient material to learn the process. I'm excited to find more and more opportunities for good layers as I learn more

Open pot is fine when you can water daily. In the garden where watering is not regular closed layer is more convenient. I’ve never had problems with mould in closed layers.

Good to know I have the option of sealing them up if I'm going to be away while the weather is hot! Thankyou for your experience.

What do you both look for before seperating your layers? Obviously root growth, are there any other good indicators you've found?

Nice cuts

Haha! Thanks! I'm so relieved, it's easier than I thought It would be :phew:

[melbrackstone]

Your first indication that things are ok is that the leaves will keep growing. Six to eight weeks later you might see roots through the transparent ones. Roots might also start showing top and bottom in the pots. Keep them going til they fill up the pot or container, is my usual MO. Make sure to cut well below the bottom cut to start with, (if you can,) then cut back the base carefully so you don't damage the new roots. Tease out the roots if they are easily done, otherwise just pot up the lot and do the root pruning next Spring.

[BonsaiBobbie]

I just did some more on the weekend. My third attempt at air layers.

This time I found them much easier and got nice clean cuts like yours.

The first time was a bit uneven and I scraped the bark off vs simply pulled off, but it be still worked. It was an autumn layer so I didn’t have many roots when I cut (fours weeks later). It is doing well!

[CommonCalluna]

Update:

It would appear that the air layers are going well so far. None of the trees have skipped a beat. Continuing to push out growth as if nothing had changed for them.

My olive started budding for flowers and the air layer branch has been no exception. So today's task is to cut off all the buds on the layer and ask her very politely to please focus on roots not fruits.

[shibui]

Growth above the layer is not always indication of success though it is certainly much better than quick death.
Last spring I put layers on some Japanese maple named varieties. They stayed alive right through summer but no roots. This spring they all grew new leaves. When I checked just before leaves started I found a single root on one layer so cut that one off and potted it up. I've had layers survive in the past with very few roots and that one is still looking OK 6 weeks later and now has leaves so I'm still optimistic. Nothing like a reminder for the tree to get on with new roots.
The others had no sign of roots so I left them on the parent. One has just started to look sick with leaves turning black and shrivelling so I guess that one is not going to make it.

Normally I'd look for new roots (seen through the bag or by gently opening to check). As mentioned they don't need much root to survive but if you have the opportunity leave until the bag/pot is getting reasonably full.
Beware of leaving too long through hot summer. If the moss/soil mix dries out completely all your new roots will die and often the layer with it. Remember that roots will be taking more and more water from the layer so it will dry out quicker as the roots grow and weather gets warmer. I find it is usually better for me to take them off garden plants earlier rather than later. When getting regular water there's less problem.

[CommonCalluna]

Growth above the layer is not always indication of success though it is certainly much better than quick death.
Last spring I put layers on some Japanese maple named varieties. They stayed alive right through summer but no roots. This spring they all grew new leaves. When I checked just before leaves started I found a single root on one layer so cut that one off and potted it up. ...

Normally I'd look for new roots (seen through the bag or by gently opening to check). As mentioned they don't need much root to survive but if you have the opportunity leave until the bag/pot is getting reasonably full.
Beware of leaving too long through hot summer. If the moss/soil mix dries out completely all your new roots will die and often the layer with it. Remember that roots will be taking more and more water from the layer so it will dry out quicker as the roots grow and weather gets warmer. I find it is usually better for me to take them off garden plants earlier rather than later. When getting regular water there's less problem.

Do you know of any way to encourage the plant more towards root growth, when it wants to do something else?
Would tip pruning encourage the plant to put its energy downwards? Or just stress the plant as it tries to put out new foliage and grow roots at once?

These are my first air layers, and the olive in particular is more if a learning process than a prospect. If you have any tips I'm open to them

[shibui]

I don't know of anything that will encourage a layer to make roots.
it is generally accepted that more growth above the layer will help provide the food - building blocks - that will move down the sap path to the layered area and encourage roots so pruning will probably not help and may even slow root production.
I've always taken the view that some will work and some may not despite what I do so accept some failures as well as the successes.

[CommonCalluna]

Yeah that makes sense, I make tons of regular cuttings knowing only some of them will take. Time will tell

[Rintar]

did my first 2 layers yesterday one on a ficus benjamina "too little" about 3 inch trunk thats way too long with no back budding and a prunus ... with good bark some form of nectarine by fruit but was sold it as a flowering plum.

[shibui]

some form of nectarine by fruit but was sold it as a flowering plum.

Does that mean you think the plant is not a plum? Should be fairly easy to tell peach/nectarine from plum by the leaves. maybe we could help with ID if you post some photos - good clear shots of: bark on the trunk, leaves and leaves on the branches, fruit, overall shot of the tree, flowers if you have them.

[Rintar]

The leaves are more Nectarine a little like some peach the fruit is the right darker colour for mature nectarine but there is no yellow its all a darker plum colour with no fuzz on the fruit. The bark is a crackly aged afair. I'm not that worried Shibui my plan was to always do cuttings/air layers of it. Its a prunus it could be a wild seed form a cross pollinated variant or just its own little freak strain. It leans into Nectarine more than anything but the fruit flavor and shape isn't quite right. I might post in ID thread later to watch the debates or see others view but its a garden fruit tree and its pretty.