Swamp Cypress Germination

[BirchMan]

Hi
I've been trying for a couple of years to get collected seed from 'swampies' or 'pondies' to sprout. This autumn I grabbed a handful more dropped cones from a vigorous mature tree in a park and kept in a paper bag for a couple months. They cracked open a little by July at which point I rubbed them somewhat more open and apart as much as possible. One thing I find is it's not clear which part of the 'wedges' are the seed, so I just plant everything that comes from the cone.
I've gotten them to the point in the picture a couple of times before they spontaneously disappear again. Any tips on getting them to the point of standing up and unfurling? Germination rates have been very low.

IMG_2702.jpeg

[treeman]

You need to use a mix that you are absolutely sure if free of insects and has suppressive qualities for pathogens like pythium and phytophthora and other damping- off diseases etc.
If you make your own mix you can solarize it by laying down in hot sun in a clear plastic bag with the top folded under until it reaches at least 60 degrees for a few hours. Right through the mix! It must be moist. This gets rid of any potential problems within the mix like cut worms, slugs, slaters, millipedes, worms. (Or you can just use a good quality potting mix (not seed raising mixes)
After it has cooled you can store or use it. After sowing you need to protect the germinating seeds from all possible predators including birds, mice and slugs/snails. If you do this you should not have further problems. Check also if your seeds need cold stratification.

[PWC]

Do you have the option of takinking cuttings, I believe cuttings have a high survival rate. This would also give you more advanced material to work with as the cuttings from what I have read can be of reasonably large diameter. I have a 20mm trunk chop that I have potted up that appears to be successful ,but to early to be shore of at this point.

[beanwagon]

Do you have the option of takinking cuttings, I believe cuttings have a high survival rate. This would also give you more advanced material to work with as the cuttings from what I have read can be of reasonably large diameter. I have a 20mm trunk chop that I have potted up that appears to be successful ,but to early to be shore of at this point.

I am yet to have a swamp cypress cutting fail no matter the diameter. I just stick them in a bucket of water.

[Bougy Fan]

I have found the best medium to grow swampy seed in is sifted pumice. I sell a mix similar to Boon's mix and I sift all the components. I have tried swampy seed in the fines from all components and just pumice and found I get a much better strike rate in pumice. I just collect the seed from local trees and sow it straight away. I have always found swampies to have a low germination rate.

[AdamBonz]

I also can confirm that swampy cuttings root reasonably easily. No real point in messing with seeds when you have access to a tree?

[BirchMan]

Thanks all. I hadn't really thought of cuttings since I was fixed on cracking the seed issue. I can easily snip a few branch ends. I'll have a crack once the growth hardens off this month or early October.

Bougy Fan I'll definitely try the sifted pumice next year though.

Cheers

[treeman]

I am yet to have a swamp cypress cutting fail no matter the diameter. I just stick them in a bucket of water.

That's good information. Have you ever tried it with Taxodium mucronatum?

[Trimmy]

You need to use a mix that you are absolutely sure if free of insects and has suppressive qualities for pathogens like pythium and phytophthora and other damping- off diseases etc.
If you make your own mix you can solarize it by laying down in hot sun in a clear plastic bag with the top folded under until it reaches at least 60 degrees for a few hours. Right through the mix! It must be moist. This gets rid of any potential problems within the mix like cut worms, slugs, slaters, millipedes, worms. (Or you can just use a good quality potting mix (not seed raising mixes)
After it has cooled you can store or use it. After sowing you need to protect the germinating seeds from all possible predators including birds, mice and slugs/snails. If you do this you should not have further problems. Check also if your seeds need cold stratification.

Why do you recommend against seed raising mixes?

[treeman]

You need to use a mix that you are absolutely sure if free of insects and has suppressive qualities for pathogens like pythium and phytophthora and other damping- off diseases etc.
If you make your own mix you can solarize it by laying down in hot sun in a clear plastic bag with the top folded under until it reaches at least 60 degrees for a few hours. Right through the mix! It must be moist. This gets rid of any potential problems within the mix like cut worms, slugs, slaters, millipedes, worms. (Or you can just use a good quality potting mix (not seed raising mixes)
After it has cooled you can store or use it. After sowing you need to protect the germinating seeds from all possible predators including birds, mice and slugs/snails. If you do this you should not have further problems. Check also if your seeds need cold stratification.

Why do you recommend against seed raising mixes?

The commercial ones I've seen are ok for tomatoes and lettuce but too fine for slow growing, long-term seedlings. Normal (good) potting mix works better IMO. They are probably ok for water loving things though..

[BirchMan]

I've now taken some young sprigs which are sitting in a bucket of water. Fingers crossed.