Leptospermum cutting medium

[Mickeyjaytee]

Hey all

I’m wondering if anyone knows what a good cutting medium for leptos is? I have grown many different species from seed however, there are some hybrids I’d like to try such as ‘white wave’, ‘pink cascade’, ‘fore shore’ and ‘lemon bun’ and the nursery stock is just no good root wise so I’m trialling cuttings.

So far I’ve tried a bunnings seed/cutting mix with hit and miss results. I find the mix is very ‘gluggy’ and muddy. I also find the mix to be prone to fungal infection even though they state it’s ‘treated’.

I do sit them in a water tray (water isn’t too high, just enough to keep them moist but, not touch the cutting ends themselves) and mist the foliage a few times a day due to the hotter days.

How is propagation sand? I thought this might work a bit better but, I’m unsure and don’t want to go out and buy a heap if it’s no good. I did have a little left over so I took some cuttings yesterday but, that will take a while before I know if it’s a success. I also have vermiculite, coir and perlite on hand if that works better.

A little lost as to what would work for leptos especially in hot/dry Perth and also, how to keep the fungal infections at bay. I have had some strike to only lose them to it.

If anyone can suggest a good cutting mix and a treatment for fungus I’d certainly be in your debt! I wasn’t sure if a fungal treatment would hurt the cuttings being well, cuttings. Perhaps mixing in some sphagnum moss may help?

This is probably not the best time for cuttings but, I’m game to give it a go.

Thanks for any help!

[Sno]

My go to cutting mix is roughly 50/50 sand and peat . The sand has to be coarsish (new word maybe ) . I find humidity the key for most cuttings , a cut bottle , clear storage boxes etc work well . Moist but not soggy . Not sure about where you are but I usually strike native cuttings now .

[Mickeyjaytee]

My go to cutting mix is roughly 50/50 sand and peat . The sand has to be coarsish (new word maybe ) . I find humidity the key for most cuttings , a cut bottle , clear storage boxes etc work well . Moist but not soggy . Not sure about where you are but I usually strike native cuttings now .

Thanks for the reply Sno. I’ll give the mix a go. By peat do you mean coir peat? If so should I grind it up finely, soak then mix with the sand? I bought the Brunnings brand propagation sand from bunnings so I’m unsure if it’s coarse enough. I’ll take some photos tomorrow.

That’s for the tips! I’ve tried bottles and other clear coverings before but, I find the cuttings cook due to the dry heat this time of year in Perth. It might be different though with leptos. I also found with others species the chance of fungal attack greatly increases with coverings but, I don’t really know how to deal with it. My best bet I think so far has been to use water trays.

Just curious, how long generally would it take for them to take root so I can apply some fertiliser to get those nutrients in before I can repot? I’m a little clueless about propagation care

Fingers crossed I have more success! Thank you!

[shibui]

I use a 'standard' propagating mix for all species rather than a different mix for each species. Need to find something that works under your conditions and it should be good for all cuttings.
My mix is 50% perlite with 50% coir.
Find the fine grade of coir rather than the coarse 'mulch' grade - https://www.bunnings.com.au/brunnings-1 ... k_p0274283. Also one without added nutrients if there's a choice. The fine grade is used direct from the pack. Just rehydrate with water. Hot water penetrates quick. Cold water may take a day or 2 to wet the coir as it is hydrophobic when packed dry.

Humidity is the key to cuttings with leaves. Not enough and they dehydrate. Too much humidity and you get fungal issues. Pots should not need to sit in water permanently. I suspect that some of the problems may be related to sitting in water.

Cut down plastic bottles are easy and work well for small numbers. If cuttings are 'cooking' look at location/other conditions rather than the bottles. Cuttings should NOT be in sun. The cut down bottles do work - even in Perth. BTW - cut off the bottom of those PET bottles rather than the top. That leaves you with the screw on lid which can provide some control of air flow and humidity.

Another inexpensive, simple, small scale cutting set up is a clear or opaque plastic storage box which will take quite a few cutting pots. Bricks, gravel or wire stand in the bottom for the pots to sit on then water to provide humidity but below the level of the pots. Lid can regulate humidity if required but I'd start with max humidity with the lid fully closed for a start.

Automatic misting is the next level. It's used commercially and works really well but needs specialist equipment so relatively costly.

Time to root varies a lot - with species, variety and current conditions - temp, light, etc. I wait until roots show at the bottom of the pots before potting the rooted cuttings into individual pots. Should be no need for fertiliser before potting on.

[Mickeyjaytee]

I use a 'standard' propagating mix for all species rather than a different mix for each species. Need to find something that works under your conditions and it should be good for all cuttings.
My mix is 50% perlite with 50% coir.
Find the fine grade of coir rather than the coarse 'mulch' grade - https://www.bunnings.com.au/brunnings-1 ... k_p0274283. Also one without added nutrients if there's a choice. The fine grade is used direct from the pack. Just rehydrate with water. Hot water penetrates quick. Cold water may take a day or 2 to wet the coir as it is hydrophobic when packed dry.

Humidity is the key to cuttings with leaves. Not enough and they dehydrate. Too much humidity and you get fungal issues. Pots should not need to sit in water permanently. I suspect that some of the problems may be related to sitting in water.

Cut down plastic bottles are easy and work well for small numbers. If cuttings are 'cooking' look at location/other conditions rather than the bottles. Cuttings should NOT be in sun. The cut down bottles do work - even in Perth. BTW - cut off the bottom of those PET bottles rather than the top. That leaves you with the screw on lid which can provide some control of air flow and humidity.

Another inexpensive, simple, small scale cutting set up is a clear or opaque plastic storage box which will take quite a few cutting pots. Bricks, gravel or wire stand in the bottom for the pots to sit on then water to provide humidity but below the level of the pots. Lid can regulate humidity if required but I'd start with max humidity with the lid fully closed for a start.



Automatic misting is the next level. It's used commercially and works really well but needs specialist equipment so relatively costly.

Time to root varies a lot - with species, variety and current conditions - temp, light, etc. I wait until roots show at the bottom of the pots before potting the rooted cuttings into individual pots. Should be no need for fertiliser before potting on.

Thanks Neil, I appreciate it mate with the plastic bottles, do you leave them on until you repot? Perhaps I’d have to leave the lid off. I only do a few cuttings at a time so a bottle will be easy.

I have struggled with them before with heat and fungal attack but do have them in near 100% shade. I’ll experiment with a humidity box. Wouldn’t sprinkling of derris dust every now and then be beneficial to prevent fungus or, is that a little too harsh for cutting?

Thanks again mate!

[Sno]

I have always left the top on the bottle , you don’t want any part of the cutting touching the bottle so don’t put to many cuttings in the one bottle because they can grow foliage quicker than they grow roots . When you look inside the bottle there should be condensation on the inside sides of the bottle but the cutting shouldn’t have water sitting on it . I like the pot to be quite shallow but wider than the bottle so I don’t have to lift off the bottle when I water the pot . Make sure every thing is clean when you start ,some people dip the end of the cuttings in honey which has anti bacterial properties ,I just use rooting hormone . I have lost cuttings from removing the cutting too early out of the humidity bottle with only a small amount of roots . Try not to play with them too much ie lifting them out to see if they have roots they will either root or die , playing with them doesn’t help .

[Mickeyjaytee]

I have always left the top on the bottle , you don’t want any part of the cutting touching the bottle so don’t put to many cuttings in the one bottle because they can grow foliage quicker than they grow roots . When you look inside the bottle there should be condensation on the inside sides of the bottle but the cutting shouldn’t have water sitting on it . I like the pot to be quite shallow but wider than the bottle so I don’t have to lift off the bottle when I water the pot . Make sure every thing is clean when you start ,some people dip the end of the cuttings in honey which has anti bacterial properties ,I just use rooting hormone . I have lost cuttings from removing the cutting too early out of the humidity bottle with only a small amount of roots . Try not to play with them too much ie lifting them out to see if they have roots they will either root or die , playing with them doesn’t help .

Oh awesome advice, thanks Sno. I’ll take it all on board. Just with watering, how do I do it without removing the bottle? I used a coke bottle I don’t know how I could get it in there without it dribbling large drops and disturbing the soil.

[Sno]

I just water over the bottle a couple of times and that soaks the soil .
This is not the best example because i usually use a wider pot but it gives you an idea but I haven’t got any other thing on the go the moment . These are some hokado elms that I just chucked in when I was pruning I wasn’t planning on propagating but I know a couple of people that might want this cultivar . They have roots but I am leaving the bottle on for a while longer for them to develop more . They were only small tip cuttings taken about 6 weeks ago . I only use the bottle technique when I am taking just a couple of cuttings .

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E1D4042A-9B1E-4375-AC80-7213CDA45E9E-11724-0000046A71C422B5.jpeg

[Mickeyjaytee]

I just water over the bottle a couple of times and that soaks the soil .
This is not the best example because i usually use a wider pot but it gives you an idea but I haven’t got any other thing on the go the moment . These are some hokado elms that I just chucked in when I was pruning I wasn’t planning on propagating but I know a couple of people that might want this cultivar . They have roots but I am leaving the bottle on for a while longer for them to develop more . They were only small tip cuttings taken about 6 weeks ago . I only use the bottle technique when I am taking just a couple of cuttings .

7241584F-8E74-4B11-BB17-63CA9E074A76-11724-0000046159EA1F18.jpeg


E1D4042A-9B1E-4375-AC80-7213CDA45E9E-11724-0000046A71C422B5.jpeg

Thanks Sno I’ll try the bottle method. I usullay only take 5-6 cutting at any one time. I spoke with a horticulturalist yesterday and the had suggested giving everything a throughout clean with methylated spirits to help with the fungal issue. Pots, secateurs etc.

Thanks for all your help.i greatly appreciate it.Here’s hoping I have some success

Cheers

[GavinG]

I'm getting better results with 100% small diatomite at the moment - soak it before you put the cuttings in. Possibly gradually remove the bottles when you see solid growth - when there are roots forming, you don't need the humidity nearly as much, but the fungal diseases are more dangerous with lots of fresh growth.

If anyone has tips for growing L. brachyandrum cuttings, I'd be most grateful - the stems seem very fine, and any leaf load at all seems to be too much. I may leave it till later in the season.

Gavin

[shibui]

you don’t want any part of the cutting touching the bottle

I was wondering if this may be the problem you have associated with 'cooking'. Foliage and shoots that touch the cover stay wet and quickly develop mould and die. A leaf or 2 against the plastic doesn't usually hurt too much. Those leaves/shoots will usually go mouldy and die but the cutting will usually survive.
Having the screw cap at the top as shown in Sno's pic allows some flexibility in humidity control. When the cuttings are growing well you can unscrew the cap and allow some fresh air for a few days. If cuttings look sad screw the lid back on. When roots show, the whole cover can come off to harden the new growth ready for potting. Just remember they will need more water with no cover.

The plastic storage tub provides the same conditions but has more room so you can place cutting pots well clear of the walls and lid.

[Sno]

If anyone has tips for growing L. brachyandrum cuttings, I'd be most grateful - the stems seem very fine, and any leaf load at all seems to be too much.

I have never tried but when I looked it up, the National Herbarium mention using half ripened tips .