Air-Layering A River Red

[FlyBri]

Gday folks!

Please find attached some pics of me attempting to perform an air-layer on a River Red Gum (E. camaldulensis).

RR_Skirt_Layer_01.jpg

This tree is a product of air-layering itself, and is the 'offspring' of this little Euc. In keeping with my belief that it is of utmost importance to create trunk movement early in the life of a Euc, I wired this one to within an inch of its life about a year ago. Turns out I was a little too vigorous, and I have paid the price by creating a nasty bulge where the trunk had snapped during the bending process. I could have simply chopped the trunk below the bulge, but the movement I had achieved in the upper trunk was too nice to throw onto the compost heap. Besides which, I know from experience that this specimen is well-suited to potted culture and the layering process, so the upper portion of the tree deserves at least a chance at becoming Bonsai stock.

RR_Skirt_Layer_02.jpg

RR_Skirt_Layer_03.jpg

In order to better turn the bulge into an asset rather than a liability, there are two things I will do here: [1] Ensure that the layer site is located at precisely the widest point on the bulge; and [2] Use a method known as a 'skirt layer' (more info here). So here goes...

Using an appropriate tool for the job (in this case, a cheap paint scraper with a new 'Stanley knife' blade inserted), a single cut is made around the entire trunk at the widest point of the bulge. (Rather than slicing the bark, it is preferable to press the knife edge straight into the bark and rocking it from side to side. In many cases, there is a noticeable 'pop' when the blade has penetrated the bark to sufficient depth.) Another cut is made about 15-20mm below this, and the two cuts are joined by a vertical cut. (A standard rule of thumb when layering is that the width of the ring of bark to be removed should be 1.5 times the diameter of the trunk at the layer point.) The resultant ring of bark is then removed from the trunk - if the cuts have been made correctly, the ring will pop off with no need for cleaning up the wound.

RR_Skirt_Layer_04.jpg

RR_Skirt_Layer_05.jpg

Here is where the 'skirt' method differs from standard air-layering: above the site where the bark has been removed, a number of vertical cuts are made so that the bark may be lifted (like the pleats on a skirt). In this case, I recall 7 or 8 cuts were made, each about 5-6mm apart.

RR_Skirt_Layer_06.jpg

Traditionally, the lifted 'skirt' is held in place by means of a ring of wire which is pushed up and under the flaps. Far be it from me to be stifled by tradition, I have come up with a much easier and safer way to get the 'pleats' to lift and stay in place: the humble tiler's wedge! They are so sharp at the point that they are easily inserted under each individual pleat, and their taper allows the pleats to be gently lifted to the desired point.

RR_Skirt_Layer_07.jpg

RR_Skirt_Layer_08.jpg

Initially, I had intended to wedge every second flap in order to create a more undulating root flare, but decided that a Euc like this could use all the help it could get in trying to achieve a nice Nebari. In the end, I wedged every flap except the one where the original wiring injury had occurred, as the bark there had grown into the broken heartwood, making it impossible to safely lift the flap (refer to the 3rd and 9th pics). Using 3 heavy duty garden ties fed into each other around the trunk, I created a platform which would help support the layering pot.

RR_Skirt_Layer_09.jpg

RR_Skirt_Layer_10.jpg

The split pot was then carefully placed around the trunk, duct taped back together, and gently filled with a 50:50 mix of chopped sphagnum and my standard Native Bonsai mix, so as no to disturb the wedging.

RR_Skirt_Layer_11.jpg

RR_Skirt_Layer_12.jpg

Now all I can do is water and wait. (Hopefully the layer takes, or else I'm gonna look like an idiot...)

Thanks.

Fly.

[anttal63]

a brilliant mind you have fly. when did you do this work fly

[Jon Chown]

A great educational post Fly and I'm sure that the layer will take.

Jon

[FlyBri]

Gday Ant & Jon!

Thanks for the support. The work I showed here was performed on Saturday just gone (24 Jan, 2009). I hope to remove the layer before winter, but we'll see what happens: it won't hurt to have the layer in place for another 3-4 months over winter, except that I may forget to water it as thoroughly as I should...

I'll keep you posted.

Fly.

[Steven]

Excellent tutorial Fly, thanks for sharing your work with us!
S.

[mudlarkpottery]

Great tut, Fly. I might have a go of your method with some plums whose branches are in the way and I planned on doing a few layers instead of just cutting them off.
Penny.

[FlyBri]

Gday folks!

Here's another River Red that I've had for some time now. I am having difficulty in settling on a design strategy for the tree, but the trunk needs to be shortened significantly if I wish to achieve taper and movement in my lifetime. I have already taken one layer from it successfully, so I figured the aforementioned trunk shortening might as well take the form of an air layer.

BaLoc_RR_Jul_09_01.jpg

BaLoc_RR_Jul_09_02.jpg

You can see in the second photo that I have tried a 'point graft' in order to create a new leader, but I am not satisfied with the progress so far. There seems to be a gross imbalance between the growth of the lower branch and the upper ones, so I'll (eventually) remove the top of the tree in order to force its vigour further down the trunk.

BaLoc_RR_Jul_09_03.jpg

Using the scraper blade (see previous posts in this thread), I gently but firmly 'rocked' my way about the trunk to begin the removal of a ring of bark: this took some time, as the bark of this specimen is really thick (8-10mm?).

BaLoc_RR_Jul_09_04.jpg

I then sliced 'pleats' into the bark above the ring, using a sharp scalpel, thus creating the 'skirt' (or 'kilt' ). Each pleat then had a wedge placed beneath it, but you can see that this has had little effect on the flare of the layer.

BaLoc_RR_Jul_09_05.jpg

In order to create the basal flare I desired, I inserted another wedge under every second pleat, gently pushing each wedge as deep as I dared: in most cases, the wedge virtually disappeared beneath the bark of the layer. It is not a very dramatic shape that I have created, but compare the bark above and below, and you can see how far out the pleats have moved.

I haven't included photos of the medium or pot, as I believe these aspects are covered above. I hope to remove this layer in Spring sometime, in order to get the new trunkline growing ASAP.

Thanks.

Fly.

[FlyBri]

I hope to remove this layer in Spring sometime, in order to get the new trunkline growing ASAP.

...Well it is Spring, and I think my initial projection was a little ambitious...

Depending on who you believe, you should not disturb an air layer until such time as it has sent roots out through the bottom of your pot/growing medium. However, my experience with layering this particular tree has taught me that it is worthwhile checking the progress of a layer to ensure that the wound is not 'bridging'. As I had expected faster rooting with this tree, I thought I'd best see what was going on. So, yesterday I gently removed the gravel/sphagnum medium (as I worked, I did not find any roots) and pulled the split pot off the trunk.

BaLoc_RR_Sep_09_01.jpg

BaLoc_RR_Sep_09_02.jpg

Generally speaking, I was quite happy with what I saw once the medium was removed: there were little proto-roots around the entire margin of the 'kilt' (as indicated by [B], but there was some 'bridging' here and there (as indicated by [A]).

Bridging is the parent tree's attempt to heal the wound created by the ring-barking. Bridging can indicate that the initial wound was not completely stripped back to the cambium layer, but a tree which is averse to the layering process (or one which has strong recuperative powers, like this River Red) may attempt to bridge the wound as a matter of course. (In some cases, a tree will completely bridge its wound rather than throw roots from the layer.) While the bridging on this layer is not severe - and it appears to be starting roots - it is best to remove it, as it is redirecting growth and potentially impeding root development.

Using a sharp scalpel, I gently scraped the offending material off, revealing a newly cleaned cambium layer.

BaLoc_RR_Sep_09_03.jpg

Once I was happy that the bridging had been eliminated (temporarily, at least), I placed the pot back into place, backfilled with my medium (I opted to add a bit more chopped sphagnum to the mix), watered thoroughly and wrapped the layer in a plastic shopping bag. I'll check it again in a couple of months' time, at which stage I hope to update this thread.

Thanks.

Fly.

[Jarrod]

Looks the goods mate, shouldn't be long till you can remove it!

[Asus101]

At the time of removal will you also remove parallel roots as well?
Something I was reading in a bonsai today issue was showing a maple that had been layered but still had a poor nebari. It was said that had the parallel roots been removed at removal or soon after, the nebari would have been much nicer.
My first layer had this issue, too many roots going the same way. Sadly the tree did not get through the summer last year, but the article did give some insight into a mistake made.

[bodhidharma]

Thanks very much Fly. I enjoyed that immensely and found it VERY informative. I have not played enough with eucs but getting the desire now.

[FlyBri]

I hope to remove the layer before winter, but we'll see what happens: it won't hurt to have the layer in place for another 3-4 months over winter, except that I may forget to water it as thoroughly as I should...

Gday folks!

Thought I'd better check the progress of the layer from the start of the thread, as it has now been about 9 months since I began the process. The top of the tree is growing so vigorously that either the layer has taken, or the wound has bridged. My suspicions about possible underwatering were confirmed when I removed the medium from the layer site. There is evidence that root tips had begun to form, but had died back once the layer site had completely bridged.

RR_Skirt_Layer_Oct_09(1).jpg

At this point, I might have given up on the layer and hacked it off, so as to concentrate on the parent tree. However, the flare it has already achieved (albeit it woody and free of roots) is quite promising, as is the movement above. So, I grabbed my trusty scraper blade and re-wounded the layer site, widening it by about 5mm.

RR_Skirt_Layer_Oct_09(2).jpg

Given the existing 'lignotuberous' flare and vigorous growth (both top and bottom), the layer should now take easily, and I hope to remove it before Xmas.

Updates to follow.

Thanks.

Fly.

[FlyBri]

Looks the goods mate, shouldn't be long till you can remove it!

Gday Jarrod!

Just removed its plastic bag this morning, and it looks like success is not too far away now:

BaLoc_RR_Nov_09_(1).jpg

However, as there are only roots on one side of the pot, I'll pinch these ones back and wrap the layer up for another couple of weeks. I could probably safely remove it now, but if a bit of patience means the difference between the new tree struggling or hitting the ground running, I'd rather wait. Besides, how long has it already been?

At the time of removal will you also remove parallel roots as well?
Something I was reading in a bonsai today issue was showing a maple that had been layered but still had a poor nebari. It was said that had the parallel roots been removed at removal or soon after, the nebari would have been much nicer.

Gday Asus!

I'm not entirely sure what you mean about parallel roots... Got diagrams?

Thanks.

Fly.

[FlyBri]

BaLoc_RR_Dec09_01.jpg

BaLoc_RR_Dec09_02.jpg

BaLoc_RR_Dec09_03.jpg

BaLoc_RR_Dec09_04.jpg

BaLoc_RR_Dec09_05.jpg

BaLoc_RR_Dec09_06.jpg

More to come...

Thanks.

Fly.

[sreeve]

Congratulations Fly, a great result and really fantastic tutorial.

Were you making the pleats in the hope of getting the roots to come from the end of the pleat and by doing so, get a headstart on flare?

Or another reason I could think of would be to open up a lot more of the cambium layer and therefore improve the success rate of the layer?
Regards
Steve