AusBonsai

Hi all,
Thought I would post these photos showing the development of new roots. The tree is one that I used for demonstration at the last School of Bonsai exhibition. I wanted to show that layering can be used in other ways other then creating new trees from mature stock. This tree had a very ugly base and root system.
I added the wire at the top cut of the layer. Notice how the cambium has stayed above the wire and allowed the roots to grow evenly around the trunk.
I decided to plant the old root system and see what the results are. Just a bit of fun to see what happens. I like to place a CD under layers to get a good horizontal root system.
The roots are fully covered for protection and to allow new roots to develop.
Regards Ray

Good on you for posting mate! Will be sure to try this on one or possibly more of my trees

-Mo

Thank you, Ray, for showing the progression. I truly enjoyed viewing these photos as I'm about to take off 3 air layers this weekend. Thanks again for your post and enthusiasm.

Hi Mo and Witchstreet,
Thanks for the replies.

This is a really good way to create a new Nebari. A couple of years under the ground and you will have some mature roots. With so many roots available you will be able to pick an choose what roots you want.

Regards Ray

Great results Ray! Thanks very much for sharing.

Do you have any pictures of the base of trees that you have done a few years ago to show what the results are?

Regards,
Steven

Great post! Never even thought to use an old CD! What a good idea

Thanks for sharing Ray, very informative, I'll be referencing this when I get around to doing my large trunk C Elm - I assume the best time of year to start this process would be early spring (when repotting) or a bit later after the sap is definitely flowing?
I'll also be interested to see if the remaining root base does kick off. Good luck,

Ryan

Hi Ryan,
Thanks mate. On Chinese Elms I would start to do layering when you see new buds forming. If you do it then you will have a new tree in 2-3 months.

One point that I should mention is the difference between Corky Bark Chinese Elms and ordinary Chinese Elms. In my experience I have found that Corky Bark's are quicker in forming roots and also a greater number of roots. I therefore always use the wire wrapping tight up against the top cut on the ordinary Chinese Elms. You will see the wire in the photo above.

With ground layering I use a different method for doing the layer. After cutting the bark away for the layer and binding with wire I use a different mixture to wrap the layer. Get some Sphagnum moss and make sure you soak it in Seasol for at least a half hour. Take the Sphagnum out and cut it up into shorter lengths, say 25mm. Now mix some Muck with the Sphagnum until it will stay together and not fall apart. After you have prepared the layer wrap this mixture around the layer. Use a pot that is large enough to be able to place some soil in around the layer and the Sphagnum/Muck mix. The soil needs to be forced in fairly firmly so that the Sphagnum/Much mix is firmly against the layer. Feed the layer with Seasol. Do not use any fertilizer at this stage. After the tree is showing new growth you can use a liquid fertilizer such and Charlie Carp or Powerfeed.

I hope your layer goes well.

Regards Ray

Hi Steven,
Sorry, I don't have any photos of previous ground layers. I have taken these photos to show the progression of this layer. This is the tree I layered as a demonstration at the 2012 School of Bonsai exhibition. I will be doing ground layering and ordinary layers at the 2013 exhibition, and, it is good to show what results can be achieved.

The following photo will show the results of layering after being planted for a period. The tree was placed on a CD and the roots buried after the layer was taken from the host tree. Even though the tree above in the post is a ground layer the results will be the same as this photo. With the stage the roots are at on this tree you could start to pick what roots you want to keep and remove the others.
Regards Ray

Hi Steven,
Special post for Steven.

Do you have any pictures of the base of trees that you have done a few years ago to show what the results are?

After Steven asked this question I have decided to do a layer. I was going to do this tree at the School of Bonsai exhibition later in the year, but, I'll find another tree for that purpose. It is a little late to do this but I won't take it off until the exhibition.
When preparing the layer cut right down to the hard wood. It is very important not to leave any Cambium. Make the width of the cut about 1.5 times the thickness of the trunk.
After preparing a layer I wrap the layer with damp flannelette. This keeps the cuts most. This allows me to prepare the hormone etc.
Prepare the moss ready to mix with muck. Soak the Sphagnum in Seasol for at least half an hour. Cut the moss up finely and mix with muck until it holds together.
The layer will now be fed with Seasol until I see new growth. When there is reasonable response from the tree I will introduce liquid fertilizer.
Regards Ray

Well done ray!

Epic post, photos and description.
Can you kindly provide some advise as to when you might conduct this work on other species?
Say figs, natives, maples etc etc.

Thanks!

Champion bit of information and education for us all, thankyou Ray.

Boics wrote:Well done ray!

Epic post, photos and description.
Can you kindly provide some advise as to when you might conduct this work on other species?
Say figs, natives, maples etc etc.

Thanks!

Hi Boics,
Figs = After the weather really warms up. I see you live in Victoria. Does the weather warm up in early December?
Maples Elms = When you see new buds forming in Spring. This would apply to many species. When the buds are forming there is a lot of vigor going on in the tree.
Natives = I am still learning about natives myself. Pup or Dennismc may be able to give some ideas.

Regards Ray

Thanks Ray.

Once again great thread and visual demonstration.

Gets hot in December round here - yes.

Thanks Ray,
Great post and excellent photography too.
Any chance of a photo of the top of the base of the tree in the picture above that you shot from below?
Regards,
Steven