AusBonsai

I'm sure I posted this before but cannot find the thread so here's another fresh start.

Background is that we know we can root prune and repot figs and many Aust natives in summer when they are growing. Many expert bonsai growers now root prune pines in autumn and some very experienced growers report they have better results when repotting cedars in mid summer.
I started to wonder why we are told that we MUST repot deciduous trees just before budburst and why so many are convinced that root pruning out of season will guarantee death of the tree so I started to experiment. The original trial was 2 young, dispensible (just in case) trident maples and were root pruned in November. Both survived and grew strongly. the following year they were repotted in late December and grew strongly.

So it seems that root pruning maples when they have leaves on is not a death sentence (at least here in Yackandandah, Vic - love to have some others try this in other areas to further prove the theory????)
This year I have decided to up the ante and do the summer root prune but not prune the top. I have seen regular articles saying that leaving the top intact will actually speed up recovery because extra foliage can feed developing roots but up to now i have always gone along with conventional wisdom and pruned the top to reduce demands on the reduced roots maybe this is also a myth??
Here is the subject: note the dates of previous repotting written on the pot. Both times previously I have removed around 3/4 of the roots and it does not look too dead. I gave it a good soaking then back onto the bench in full sun. Now the wait to see what happens. Anyone want to make a prediction?

Prediction = 1 ) if you have a couple of hot days you will loose 80% of the foliage a little die back but nothing too serious
2) if you have a few mild days you will loose 20% of leaves and then new buds will hit in 10 - 14 days
3) coolish days tree should power on as if nothing has happened.

I think the answer lies in the weather condition for the first week after the root hack.

But maybe I also have no idea.

Cheers Mase

I have quite often root pruned and repotted outside conventional dates, and never had a problem. The only ones I have lost was prunus elvins but it was so pot bound it wouldn't have made it if I hadn't tried. Natives ; I have never been too fussed on the time of year and also have never had any major problems such as death. Anything fairly hardy I have never had a problem with, except some leptospermum and banksia. Casuarina I have never had a problem with, and Mel's and cals, it doesn't seem to phase them. I am losing interest in exotics so it's hard to comment much on these.

hi Neal
i don't think anything negative will happen to the tree, the amount of roots left on it are far more than enough to carry on as usual. if u were to cut off 90-95% of the root as per proper root pruning now, then i think the tree will definitely have a lot of dried leaves over the next week or so.



regards

Tien

masekeane wrote:Prediction = 1 ) if you have a couple of hot days you will loose 80% of the foliage a little die back but nothing too serious
2) if you have a few mild days you will loose 20% of leaves and then new buds will hit in 10 - 14 days
3) coolish days tree should power on as if nothing has happened.

I think the answer lies in the weather condition for the first week after the root hack.

But maybe I also have no idea.

Cheers Mase

Funny you mention this, as it's something I've noticed while planting my veggie garden and regularly allow for. Makes sense to me

I think it will be fine with a little bit of after care. A couple of weeks ago I did some much harsher treatment to a trident I got from your nursery. The stump has been in the full sun on hot days and it's sprouting new growth.

As you know Neil i repotted Elms in January and i have been repotting up till this morning, even Japanese maples. I think it was Hiro who said we could repot all year with our moderate climate. Not so with collecting a tree methinks. I did dig two large tridents last month and bare rooted them and they are powering away.

I agree with Mase.

Good on your for conducting these public tests Shibui.
It's only by pushing boundaries that we learn and improve our knowledge and skills.

I collected 10 one year old celtis saplings from the grounds in work .
I experimented with them , some a carefully dug up and defoilated others I just ripped out of the ground and left the leaves
On. It was November last year. The ones I ripped out and kept the leaves on recovered much sooner .

I have seen Ted Poynton root prune Chinese elms all year round at his bonsai nursery.

Aftercare Neal? Shade, mist, Seasol, magic incantations and Tender Loving Care? Yeah, right.

Gavin

GavinG wrote:Aftercare Neal? Shade, mist, Seasol, magic incantations and Tender Loving Care? Yeah, right.

Gavin

Aftercare Neal? Shade, mist, Seasol, magic incantations and Tender Loving Care? Yeah, right.

I have heard some of those things mentioned Gavin but rarely use any of them.
Here it is on the bench. It does have the company of plenty of other plants I suppose - that might help with recovery. No dead leaves yet Mase , not a single one despite a couple of pretty warm days. Clouds building up today with rain predicted tomorrow night.

Misery loves company

I believe the comment around pushing boundaries is well made. When we start out, we follow the guidelines like rules and as we get a grasp of the techniques we should push beyond the guidelines.

I have often merely kept to the guidelines as it gives structure. Life can happen and get busy, so some structure helps. Last year I started pushing some boundaries with planting trees outside of the customary times. All were fine. Last weekend I repotted, with 60-70% root pruning, branch pruning and wiring of three Celtis. I wanted the trees in smaller pots. They did get some Superthrive and into shade. They have not missed a beat. I looked at them this morning and they look great.