AusBonsai

Apparently one is only for conifers & azaleas the other is for maples etc.
Is this correct or can I just buy one of them and use it with all my trees ?
What's the difference ?
Thanks in advance
Ross

Hi Ross,

I am led to believe that the colour is the difference between the two. One is for species that have lighter coloured trunks and the other is for species that have darker trunks, but essentially its the same product. I maybe wrong with that, but from memory that is how it was explained to me.

Cheers

David

Thanks David

Hi i quick and urgent question. I have the cut paste shown in the second pic. Stupid question but how do i use it. It feels like play dough to me. Am i suppose to mix it with something. It simple won't smear on.

There is a trick with using it. You pull out a piece, roll it into a ball, stick it over the wound, then a bit of spit on your thumb will press it into place.

Brian wrote:There is a trick with using it. You pull out a piece, roll it into a all, stick it over the wound, then a bit of spit on your thumb will press it into place.

I managed to work out the trick. Replaced spit with a dab of water.

stocaz wrote:Apparently one is only for conifers & azaleas the other is for maples etc.
Is this correct or can I just buy one of them and use it with all my trees ?
What's the difference ?
Thanks in advance
Ross

Hi Ross, your correct in your explanation of the use. That's what the specs tell us. I have only ever had the green lid putty, (6044c), and I have used it on all sorts of trees. In recent years I have been sealing with Kiyonal S1006 before putting the putty on the wound. I let the Kiyonal S1006 harden then apply the putty.
When I use the putty I put some water in the lid and use that for keeping my fingers wet.

Regards Ray

I saw somewhere that Chinese bonsai growers traditionally used candle wax as wound sealant. I have successfully used both candle wax and bee's wax to seal wound. Both seem to work fine and are much cheaper than other wound sealants. Anyone else tried either of these?

Peterji wrote:I saw somewhere that Chinese bonsai growers traditionally used candle wax as wound sealant. I have successfully used both candle wax and bee's wax to seal wound. Both seem to work fine and are much cheaper than other wound sealants. Anyone else tried either of these?

I have been using home-made paste, a mixture of plasticine & oil. Never thought of bee's wax. I have a large block of bee's wax I got for other purposes but has never been used. Might give it a go & see how it works. Do you need to apply heat to melt it or is heat from rolling it in your hands sufficient to get the required consistency?

Cheers

There are several ways of using wax for sealing cuts in plants. Wax is too hard to use as it is but you can heat it to soften it (can be a bit messy and you need to plan ahead to have it ready for use) or you can mix it with other substances to make it softer and ready for use like the commercial sealers and grafting wax.
Here's a couple of recipes I found:

"You can use heated liquid wax. It should be not too hot. If you can stand holding you finger in it then it is not too hot. We used a crock pot to keep the melted wax in. I used to bench graft several hundred dwarf conifers and Japanese maples each winter when I worked at a nursery. For field work, we had wax melters that looked like kerosene railroad lanterns with a tin can on the top. I did mostly veneer grafting and budding."

"Home made grafting wax:
10oz (weight) rosin
2 oz (weight) beeswax
1 oz (weight) charcoal powder
1 T linseed oil
Heat the beeswax and rosin at 250F until they melt. Stir in the remaining ingredients. Allow to cool to a spreadable consistency and brush it onto the graft. Charcoal and rosin are sold by "Chem Lab"."

Other recipes do not include the charcoal powder and older ones use fat (tallow) instead of linseed oil. Measurements do not need to be exact - more oil will give a softer wax.

shibui wrote: "Home made grafting wax:
10oz (weight) rosin
2 oz (weight) beeswax
1 oz (weight) charcoal powder
1 T linseed oil
Heat the beeswax and rosin at 250F until they melt. Stir in the remaining ingredients. Allow to cool to a spreadable consistency and brush it onto the graft. Charcoal and rosin are sold by "Chem Lab"."

Other recipes do not include the charcoal powder and older ones use fat (tallow) instead of linseed oil. Measurements do not need to be exact - more oil will give a softer wax.

What is the purpose of the charcoal?


Cheers
EZ
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I ran out of sealant a while back ( realised just after I cut a major branch). Been using Vaseline ever since. Seems to work well and I like it cause you can see what's happening underneath. Anyone know of any draw backs using Vaseline? I have to reapply occasionally but that's not a problem.
I like using Vaseline because I can cover the edge where I cut the bark and stops the cut bark drying out. Doesn't seem to effect healing of the wound in anyway.
I did discover not to leave it sitting on the bench in the sun my bench is now water proof

Josh.

Lol Josh,
Good find!


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With the putty it is useful to warm it up by vigorously rubbing/rolling it in your hand into a sausage, over and over.

It is then easy to apply and sticks (to the tree) better straightaway.

There is another (cheaper) plain packaging putty that kingston Wang sells and it is fine; it seams to work as well as the others.

Grant