10 Little Samurai's- PJ figs

[Mitchell]

I would love to hear from our experts on their opinions and suggestions, particulary if you would have some suggestion to fix the roots.

It is normal for thicker Ficus cuttings to grow roots out the callus formed by wounding the tree instead of the side of the trunk- I believe its "easier" for the tree to do so. (But scientifically it has something to do with auxins.)

No expert here but there is no reason for growing new roots higher up on the trunk. For the thickness of the trunks you have you will also want to end up with a few thick roots to make up the nebari. If I were you I would select seven to nine strong roots and cut of the rest (the area between the chosen roots can also be cut into an upside down V) to help build those seven to nine roots. This will have to be done a few times because the cut roots will grow again.

The other way you could go is to let the current roots grow a little stronger and then bundle them into seven to nine groups to let them fuse over time.

This kind of cuttings give you nice fat trunks but working them into believable bonsai is going to take a lot of creativity and time.

Here is one "exactly" the same that Im working on:

S4010007 (2).jpg

Lennard

I was under the impression a nebari should start from the side of the plant, not underneath. I may just be not following.

I am not concerned though in establishing roots so much, more-so how to grade / blend the trunk with the current roots.
There are plenty there and your bundling method sounds good for making them more prominent.

The "lip" is what screams cutting to me. Perhaps taking a chisel very carefully and removing the lip section above the selected roots, would give the the illusion of coming from the trunks side.

[lennard]

"I was under the impression a nebari should start from the side of the plant, not underneath. I may just be not following. '

The roots are coming from underneath the trunk for now but over time the area where the root and the trunk meet will get "bigger". The roots getting thicker will push against each other forcing the jointed area upwards. Roots getting thicker is also why you should thin them out so they dont force each other upwards or downwards.

You still have to grow the cuttings on a tile or something to force the roots growing horizontally.

Hope this clears this up.

Lennard

[Jamie]

you want an even, neat nebari as to help pull the lower trunk out and create a smooth transition from nebari to trunk. doing general root work while at this stage will help bigtime in the long run, do it properly now you wont have to fix it later

[Mitchell]

After further examination, I see what you mean. The bigger roots are blending in nicely. 9 and 10 are looking very nice, in their Buzzings baskets with new medium. I will start on the rest tomorrow.

[lennard]

Just for the interest thereof :

Callus/ meristematic(?) growth between the bark and the wood:

naby uitloopsels.jpg

Callus growth between the bark and the wood turning into roots(without any medium):

closeup.jpg

The above Ficus is Ficus burkei.

Lennard

[craigw60]

Hi Mitchell, Even if you want to grow your figs into sumo style shohin a few years growing will help a lot to soften the transition into the new trunkline. By selecting one or more leaders (depending on the style you want ) and growing them on then cutting back and repeating, you will in the long term end up with better trees. This process will also help with nebari development and basal flare.
Craig

[Mitchell]

Hi Mitchell, Even if you want to grow your figs into sumo style shohin a few years growing will help a lot to soften the transition into the new trunkline. By selecting one or more leaders (depending on the style you want ) and growing them on then cutting back and repeating, you will in the long term end up with better trees. This process will also help with nebari development and basal flare.
Craig

Definatley sounds the go Craig and I believe is my general plan. The new containers will allow twice the room they have been growing in.

Bought some of those rotary cuttings bits and a flew shaft for my drill. Should be interesting. I don't plan on carving all of them, just one for the moment, to see what I end up with.

[Mitchell]

I may have a suitable solution for #2. As the air roots have been spiraled around the trunk, perhaps a could re-create a strangler fig which has consumed another tree. With some tricky carving I think I can pull it off. Should look spectacular if I can create what I see in my head. Fig perched a top of the colapsing carcass, of a once existing massive tree.

Will post some pics later.

[Jamie]

sketch it out first mate, i always sketch out what i plan to carve first as the old saying goes you can take it off but its not easy to put back on. look forward to seeing what ya do though mate

good luck!

[Mitchell]

sketch it out first mate, i always sketch out what i plan to carve first as the old saying goes you can take it off but its not easy to put back on. look forward to seeing what ya do though mate

good luck!

The basis of the design would be to remove the dead rotting wood from the stump. Which is probably something that needs doing anyway to stop it going further. Not planning on cutting anything atm.

[Mitchell]

Just for the interest thereof :

Callus/ meristematic(?) growth between the bark and the wood:

naby uitloopsels.jpg

Callus growth between the bark and the wood turning into roots(without any medium):

closeup.jpg

The above Ficus is Ficus burkei.

Lennard

Do you get much die-back on top of the stumps? The flat top section looks darkened like mine. Mine appear to be sealed / dead ontop of the flat chop but the edge cambrium / bark is alive. Can I ask what methods you use to cover / blend the such a large flat chop into the tree. Even if one strong leader is selected and grown, I do not believe you could ever get rid of the flat chop by growing. SO is carving the answer, or should it just be covered by twisting branches and foliage? Would we not have to carve / cut the flat chop to an angle achieving taper yet opening up a massive deadwood area on one side?

Had a look at the carving I did last night on the deadwood and I believe I am heading in the right direction, with #2.

[Amanda]

Could be an idea for #2

[Mitchell]

Could be an idea for #2

That's exactly how I saw it, except utilising the wrapped aerial roots. This should hopefully give the impression or power being the dominant plant and also vunerability as the supporting lifeforce is almost about to colapse from under it. I should be able to achieve this as the wrapped aerial, looks undersized to support the plant free standing without the rotting base.

[Mitchell]

Almost finished rough carving. Plenty more detailed work to go.
Thought the live vein under the aerial roots added some interest, may end up removing it and just leaving the aerial roots.

[lennard]

Do you get much die-back on top of the stumps? The flat top section looks darkened like mine. Mine appear to be sealed / dead ontop of the flat chop but the edge cambrium / bark is alive. Can I ask what methods you use to cover / blend the such a large flat chop into the tree. Even if one strong leader is selected and grown, I do not believe you could ever get rid of the flat chop by growing. SO is carving the answer, or should it just be covered by twisting branches and foliage? Would we not have to carve / cut the flat chop to an angle achieving taper yet opening up a massive deadwood area on one side?

Had a look at the carving I did last night on the deadwood and I believe I am heading in the right direction, with #2.

No die-back on this one.

No examples on the net to turn a 30cm thick cutting into a bonsai so I have to follow my instincts on this one:

Im planning to do a fig-style with this one- an open umbrella style where the width of the crown is greater than the height - on a trunk that is as long as the height of the crown. (Im not even thinking of trying to grow over the large fat chop.) I have already cut V-areas between the "new" branches. almost the same as in the virt:

met lyne.jpg

Over time I believe the center of this stump will rot away right through leaving me with a totally hollow trunk.

Scaring the bark to add age or even growing some roots out of the trunk is a possibility.

Removing one side of the trunk making a hollow trunk bonsai is also a possibility.

Hiding the wound with twigs and leaves while its healing would be the only way to go for now.

This air layer is part of a massive incredible nebari I have dug:

nebari klein.jpg

I think you are doing fine the direction you are going with yours.

Lennard