Pre work on yamadori How much

Josh · Post by **Josh** » June 17th, 2012, 7:28 pm

Just interested in how much work people do to trees before they collect them. I know most people cut around the roots to encourage feeder roots before digging. But how much work do you put into the actual tree. Pruning it back, shaping. I have found a couple of trees lately and wondering how much time I should spend on them before digging. Prune them back, start to shape.
Also I was talking to a mate recently who said he snaps the trunk of eucalypts to get them to reshoot lower on the trunk. He leaves the top attached so it still has leaves to send sap to but will reshoot lower to save itself. Anyone tried or heard of this.
Does anyone have photos of trees when first found, then after preperation and finally after dig.

Thanks in advance.
Josh

Craig · Post by **Craig** » June 17th, 2012, 7:35 pm

None

Zero

Zilch,

dig it up

take it home

thats it

Paulneill · Post by **Paulneill** » June 17th, 2012, 7:38 pm

if you can be sure the tree will survive it could be pre trainned as much as u want , but if there is a chance that the the tree may not survive or die back . all pre trainning would be a wast of time .

matlea · Post by **matlea** » June 17th, 2012, 7:45 pm

As Craig said! Would like to try and do some work on a tree still in the ground, but would need to be sure it wasn't going to be damaged/ removed etc by other people... Than it would be a waste of time! I would rather get it home and put it into the ground or grow box where you can keep an eye on it.

Josh · Post by **Josh** » June 17th, 2012, 7:47 pm

Cool, thanks guys. Guess I'm going digging soon

Josh

Dario · Post by **Dario** » June 18th, 2012, 1:30 am

Hi kidsandall, I am not trying to complicate things but I think it depends on the tree and situation.
For example I have trunk chopped a couple of thick trunks and left them in the ground for a year. I had to go back so that I could select my main trunk line/leader....left all shoots at this stage, but pruned all back (except my chosen leader), so that the main leader I selected would get a head start on the other shoots, ensuring that it would become the new trunk line.
I did this because the trees are safe where they are, but mainly because I wanted to save time.
Being that the trunks are quite thick, leaving them in the ground has acheived fantastic growth and thickening of the new trunk/leader. This has helped to speed the transition between the base and new leader, utilising the tap roots that are in the ground.
Each to their own, but in this instance I know for a fact that I saved a bunch of time. If I had just taken the tree home when I trunk chopped it I would have had to wait for the tree to recover, and it probably would have taken at least two years to get to the same stage (however if it was a thick trunked fraxinus/ash for example, I wouldn't have bothered as they grow so quickly anyway).
When I collect it I will trunk chop the new section and regrow taper again (at home this time), but I will be way ahead of the game.
The down side of this approach is that I had to go back a few times to make sure things were going as planned.
This is one situation where leaving it onsite can help.
So I think it is species dependant and possibly age related (depending on the species). And as stated earlier by matlea, wether the tree will be safe at its location.
I can also think of a couple of other situations, but they are not really worth mentioning as you would probably not come across them in Australia that often.
For the vast majority of trees (and most likely situations) as Craig said, just grab it and do the work at home.
Good luck, Dario.

Josh · Post by **Josh** » June 18th, 2012, 7:51 am

Thanks, guys, I am a bit surprised people don't do more work on them before taking them as Dario said, it can save a huge amount of time. I have a couple of small trees I took and I left some in the ground. The ones in the ground are 3 times the size of the ones I took.
What is the survival rate of trees people have taken, as a few mentioned trees not surviving??????

Josh

Hackimoto · Post by **Hackimoto** » June 18th, 2012, 8:29 am

It depends on the species and the time of year. Always make sure the roots are kept moist / wet at all times.

Deciduous trees, dormant at the end of winter, mostly you can do whatever you like, but not excessive wiring or carving.

Figs, in the warm weather, the same as above. I trim back and totally defoliate, then pot and put them into full sun and they are back in leaf within weeks. You may need some shade in very hot, dry climates.

Most other evergreens and conifers, tread with great caution.

These methods have worked for me in a sub-tropical climate.

AusBonsai