Help after dunking Maple !!!!!

Jasonb · Post by **Jasonb** » March 11th, 2013, 8:30 pm

Very good points andrew, I completely looked past winters approach. Leave the roots alone stocaz, as for dunk watering, that is something that I don't feel the need to do in my current environment. Perhaps some more experienced members could elaborate the pros and cons of this.

Jason

Andrew Legg · Post by **Andrew Legg** » March 11th, 2013, 9:03 pm

stocaz wrote: Thanks Andrew.

Are you suggesting once I repot the tree in spring into fresh bonsai soil that I should dunk it instead of watering as normal ?

Cheers

Nope, I'm saying that you should dunk it now to make sure it is evenly watered. Once you repot it into a better mix, you can then water normally as the water will be able to get through the soil ok without needing time to soak in. You may only need to do this a few more times depending on when your winter starts.

stocaz · Post by **stocaz** » March 12th, 2013, 7:47 pm

Ok.... So I slip potted the tree today so I'm hoping it will be ok.
I noticed every leaf on the tree is curled and crisped on the tips so don't know how I'm gonna go.

Should I have it in morning sun or complete shade ?

Thanks Ross

shibui · Post by **shibui** » March 12th, 2013, 8:05 pm

I'd be giving it morning sun. It will need some sun to make energy to recover.

The leaces are burnt now either because uit got too dry or because the roots died and could not supply water. either way the damage is done and you have done all that can be done to hlp. Now only time will tell. If it does not make it remember that all experienced growers have had dead trees.
As long as you learn from the experience it is not a total loss.
Tridents are pretty tough (I'm assuming its atrident from the trunk?).

that this one makes it.

Paulneill · Post by **Paulneill** » March 12th, 2013, 8:32 pm

Hi mate.

I don't see how putting it in a bigger pot with succulent mix will help the situation. Best bet is monitor the watering . The tree should be watered by submerging the whole pot for ten mins. to ensure penetration of the soil . Only do this when the pot has dried sufficiently. scrape the surface of the soil daily wait until the top half inch is bone dry Before submerging . After submerging prop the pot up on is side so it sits vertical long ways this help drain extra water from the pot .. I would be trying to give the tree as much sun as possible to aid with the drying of the soil plus the tree needs direct light. You could also use wicks to draw moisture from the pot by inserting about 20 tooth picks into the soil gently , leaving them poking out . As they dry they will draw out moisture. That glazed pot won't help use either a terracotta pot of wooden box they are much better as they both draw out moisture . Learn to judge the pot by weight this is always a good indicator .

When the tree looses its leaves It won't need watered (at all ) put it somewhere dry check its weight every couple of weeks this is when root rot will most likely happen.

Bare root the tree come late winter and get it into a good inorganic mix .

Good luck

stocaz · Post by **stocaz** » March 12th, 2013, 8:33 pm

shibui wrote:I'd be giving it morning sun. It will need some sun to make energy to recover.

The leaces are burnt now either because uit got too dry or because the roots died and could not supply water. either way the damage is done and you have done all that can be done to hlp. Now only time will tell. If it does not make it remember that all experienced growers have had dead trees.
As long as you learn from the experience it is not a total loss.
Tridents are pretty tough (I'm assuming its atrident from the trunk?). that this one makes it.

Thanks for that here is a photo I took today hopefully its not as bad as your saying ill be upset if I loose it

shibui · Post by **shibui** » March 12th, 2013, 8:50 pm

Its Japanese maple and looks quite well for this time of year.

Can't see what all the fuss has been about.
Most Japanese maples will have a few scorched margins this summer. Looks fine to me. Keep it out of really hot afternoon sun and don't let it get too dry.

Andrew Legg · Post by **Andrew Legg** » March 13th, 2013, 3:27 am

shibui wrote:Its Japanese maple and looks quite well for this time of year. Can't see what all the fuss has been about.
Most Japanese maples will have a few scorched margins this summer. Looks fine to me. Keep it out of really hot afternoon sun and don't let it get too dry.

Yip - if you have a Japanese Maple that does not have burnt leaf margins at this time of year, let us know how you're doing it!!!

Jasonb · Post by **Jasonb** » March 13th, 2013, 9:10 am

I have two that have had full sun for the entire summer and not one leaf had burnt margins, strange that others have? And it got pretty hot where I am too.

Jason

Jasonb · Post by **Jasonb** » March 13th, 2013, 9:11 am

My liquidamber on the other hand did, hence the slip pot and now it seems to have recovered. Are ambers and maples quite similar? Or is there some big differences that could have caused this?

stocaz · Post by **stocaz** » March 13th, 2013, 10:39 am

Thanks for all your advice..... I'm not too concerned about the leaves now I know it's fairly normal for this time of year
It was more that I thought I may have a problem with the tree due to the poor/muddy soil it was planted in.

Ill just sit tight till spring

then re pot it in some quality soil then

MattA · Post by **MattA** » March 13th, 2013, 11:02 am

It would be possible to do a light repot removing the coiled outer roots & some of the inner soil at this time of year, while spring is optimal it is also possible to do deciduous trees now. Even once leaf drop has occured, roots continue to grow & will give the tree a good headstart on next spring.

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