Of bonsai competition results in

[xtolord]

It seems like the site crashed down when the results were out ( i expect too much traffic in one go )
The owner(s) are moving to another server but it is going to take some time I expect.

[Neli]

Since the sight is down, here are my entries.

my third entry and the highest score
Judge #1 6.25
Judge #2 5.75
Judge #3 8.0
Total Score
6.7
6.7/ 10
Judge #3: Interesting design and use of starting material.
Would you believe that I grew this from a cutting?

First update.
I have decided to Check on the plant and see how it is growing. There were lots of branches that were not needed for the future design but were shading smaller branches that needed to grow better and I decided to chop the plant..
Another reason for deciding of chopping it is that there are places where I need branches, and the foliage mass was so thick that it was unlikely that they were going to bud. Opening it and exposing the areas to sun should increase the possibility of back budding.
Since The first portion of the main trunks is almost fully developed, All I need to do now is decide on the style and develop the second section of the three trunks I plan to keep, and Part of the primary branches. The rest will need to be done under more controlled environment in order to be able to achieve better tapper and ramification.
The plant is very fast growing, but at the expense of large internodes.
I shall have to be reducing any leaders /branches at the moment to probably one maximum 2 internodes.
Also the branches at this thickness are totally unbendable and separate from the trunk at the smallest attempt to move them. Very young branches are almost succulent like and brittle. There is one stage when they are slightly lignified , which is the best for bending. So they will need to be bent when slightly lignified and clip and grow employed, in combination with wiring.
The branches were cut somewhat higher than needed , in case of possible die back . Ones they back bud and the new branches are established, they will be reduced to the correct size.
I have removed very few of the branches that are not needed. Left many of them so I have better options when styling. A branch can be removed at any time, but to re grow it needs time. So as long as they were not bar branches which can create reverse tapper, I have removed very few.
At the same time areas where the branches are cut need to heal, and for that reason ones I have decided what the final design will be exactly, they will need to go .
I would probably need to use electrical tools for some of the branches and in that area electricity is absent.
Attention needs to be paid to the rotting wood. I shall clean it today and apply wood hardeners and waterproof it.
I have the possibility of going with 3 or 5 trunk style. The trunk is the main feature on this tree, and going with 5 trunks will detract from the focal point which is the uro at the base of the tree. For this reason 3 of the trunks will need to be removed so that only 3 remain.
The branches will be styled in somewhat upward direction, and the style will be slightly windswept, multi trunk.
As the thickness of the trunks need to proportionate to the height , I made the right trunk the tallest, and the middle one slightly lower. If the development progresses well I shall evaluate the appearance and might make the middle trunk highest.
So possibility for change are still there.


Half way progression:
The tree was dug out from the ground , and preliminary trimmed, at the end of winter August) and bare rooted.. All bottom growing roots were removed, and larger roots growing horizontally shortened to less than 5 cm. All roots were arranged laterally and shortened. The tree had lots of fine roots.


While it was growing in the ground, frequent shallow watering was performed in order to encourage surface root development. It was fertilized every two weeks.
Unfortunately I did not have the correct size pot for the tree, and had to use much larger pot made from cement by me.. For this reason I filled the pot with stones, put a perforated plastic over that and planted the tree on top of the plastic in a home made mix: Zakadama ( crushed village made bricks) large particle sand, laterite and a tiny amount of compost.. 90% inorganic mix.

After planting the tree the tree was trimmed again.


Initially it lost all its leaves, and gave me a scare, but with carefull watering (avoiding over watering) while keeping the tree in the shade, the tree has recovered well.
After I dug out the tree. I realized that there was a large portion of the trunk under ground, which negated the initial option of multitrunk tree.
As e result the design of the tree has changed, to more broomish style, and I have decided to keep all 5 trunks for that reason.

All primary branches were left with leaders/sacrifice branches to thicken them in proportion to the trunk.


Three quarter progression.
Entrant’s full name: Neli Stoyanova
Complete address with telephone number and email address: Plot 2234 New Kasama Lusaka Zambia,


Common and Latin name of species: Deutzia scabra Chinese Snow Flower -
Starting and finished height of tree: 120cm
Pot source, if used: DIY cement training pot
Accompanying descriptive text, as outlined in the rules:

The tree has recovered well from the transplant, and back budded very well..


The first step was to allow all branches to grow, to help the tree recover from the transplant and rebuild its root system.
All the leaders were left to grow free while some of the branches shading the lower shoots were removed.
After 5 month, the top section (sacrificial branch to thicken the lower portion was removed since the diameter was already in proportion to the lower portion of the branch and I needed some extra back budding in the lower section.
After the branches reached 6-8 pares of leaves they were reduced to 1 internode. This tree has 10 cm internodes. After I have done the same 3-4 times, all secondary branches will be wired and allowed to grow free in order to thicken them. While cutting back clip and grow was employed to add movement to the branches. Ones they have thickened , they will be cut back to the shortest internode, and regrown for Taper and movement. At that point tertiary branch development will commence.
This technique has allowed me to reduce the internodes to 1cm and less.
After the tree showed very strong growth, I carved most of the points that were the branches were cut, and I did not need any additional budding, , in order to commence healing. Some branches were left above the cut points to assists with healing of the wounds.
Also some carving was done on the uro section and polished.

The bridge above the Uro was left with 2 branches to grow in order to strengthen it.




Final submission:
Entrant’s full name: Neli Stoyanova
Complete address with telephone number and email address: Plot 2234 New Kasama Lusaka Zambia,
Tel: 00260966666664
Email: nelibonsai@gmail.com

Common and Latin name of species: Deutzia scabra Chinese Snow Flower -
Starting and finished height of tree: 120cm
Pot source, if used: DIY cement training pot
Accompanying descriptive text, as outlined in the rules:
The tree has recovered well from the transplant. Very strong growth and fertilizing every two weeks, added to the already long internodes of this shrub. Full sun exposure helped little to reduce the internodes.
During this period, my main concern was to promote strong root growth, by promoting strong top growth. Bone meal was added to the home made fertilizer cakes, supplemented with sea weed extract, and organic fertilizer.
The tree was planted over 1-2 cm of media mix, and all roots spread horizontally and radial direction, in order to prevent roots growing downwards. I needed roots to develop strongly so I covered the root ball with another 7cm soil over the nebari.
I had an option to leave more soil under or over the root spread, but I decided on the later, since surface roots are much easier reduced than vertically growing roots.
I tried to uncover the nebari for the purpose of the competition, but there were so many fine roots that I felt the health of the tree will be affected, since our winter is starting next month. Eventually surface roots that are not needed will be removed gradually after and during the repot.
The trunk flairs into a beautiful nebari, that just needs to have its roots thickened.
The trunk has lots of character, and movement, with some taper, that can not be seen since the nebari is covered with soil, but can be seen on the bare rooted tree's previous pictures.
The textured bark and the uro already give the appearance of an old tree. For this reason the branches will have to follow the same direction, with lots of movement, taper and direction.
The trunk is a sumo trunk, and the branches will need to be in proportion to it. lower portions/sections of the primary branches are thickened enough with exception of the front left main branch.
What is remaining now is to continue developing the second section of the primary branches and thicken them sufficiently, while creating movement at the same time.
Since this tree has very long internodes, I have been developing the branches like an acer. Grow 6-8 leaf pares and reduce to one internode, while leaving selected branches as sacrifice branches to thicken various sections of the tree.
Ones I have 2-3 short internodes, I will leave the branches to grow free for the tree to recover its strength, and at the same time thicken those sections. The process will be repeated until, desired length and taper is created in the primary branches.
Lots of unneeded branches were left to help with the thickening of the primary branches. This tree has the habit of producing 3 buds and more, from each internode. If left they can create bulges at the internode points. For this reason all third branches coming from a node were removed, while leaving some of the second branches as sacrifice or main branches.
At this point I have managed to create only 1-2 internodes that are short, and to which all branches were cut. I left long stubs at the end of the branches since the tree had some die back of small branches, during the first trim.
Our winter is starting next month. Ideally I would not have even shortened the branches now, but left them to grow, but that was going to make me present to the judges just a overgrown bush on which nothing is seen. Considering the fact that we dont really get frost in Africa, I decided to trim it but did not want to defoliate it at this point, since the tree is not strong enough for that yet.
The future of the tree is to develop well tapered branches with lots of movement, with a crown in the broom style with drooping branches on the side, to be in sync with the image of an old tree, with branches drooping from their weight. Close view will be portrayed by adding lots of detail to the execution of the design.
The Uro and the hole on the side of it, will be used as focal point, of the design. The bridge over the Uro needs to be strengthened and somewhat thickened and for that reason I left two shoots emerging from the centre of it to grow, which will be removed ones this task is accomplished.
At the same time regular sealing will be done to preserve the dead wood.
Some minor carving still needs to be done on some branch chop points , but that will be done ones the branches emerging from those points have lignified.
The tree has flowers that emerge on the ends of branches on new growth, in somewhat spiky fashion. The broom style will best allow for the flowers to be viewed, covering the crown at the tip of the tertiary branches,
Techniques used were basic clip and grow, carving, wood cleaning, sealing and waterproofing, combined with some tinting of the cavity, so the bleaching from the lime sulphur used as preserver, is not so stark.
I am not sure if I did not make a mistake to trim the tree, or I should have wired the branches and left them so that they are cut after the competition, so it temporarily looks better. But it needed to be done so it will be what is meant to be.
Thanks, to the organizers of the competition for giving as an incentive to try and excel. to the judges for taking the time to evaluate our entries and good luck to the rest of the competitors

[Neli]

Comment of the judges:
Judge #1: Excellent start, great future drawing
Judge #3: Good potential and choice of Bouganvilla cultivar.
score 6.6
Judge #1 7.0


Judge #2 6.5


Judge #3 6.25


Total Score
6.6
6.6/ 10

I was given this bougainvillea by a friend, who dug it out from a farm. I have no information on the variety, since I got it recently and it has not flowered. At list now has few leaves so I can tell it is a bougie.
He did not use any cutting instrument and just broke the branches carelessly, and short. As a result some of the branches have several deep cracks up to the base. I trimmed what I could but some I just left cracked hoping they will some how heal, since they were just too short and at good positions.. I tied them with wire hoping they will create callus, heal and not dry.
I put the tree in the shade to recover after planting it, and never noticed that there is a mould growing on/under the branches. I have since shifted it on the sun, but I have not seen any growth, which makes me somewhat worried.
My first priority will be to develop a good root system and make the plant grow vigorously. Our winter is starting just now so not much will be done at the moment in terms of styling, in spring depending on the condition of the plant I will re pot it.
The plant needs drastic trimming and re growing new branches , the nebari needs attention, if there is any at all, but all that will be attended to during repotting.


It has finally developed some leaves and flowers and I have identified it as bougainvillea pixie. B. Pixie has very small leaves, flowers are with short stalks directly attached to the branch on very short stalks , as opposed to the other varieties that have long stalks and somewhat hanging flowers.
Taking that into account and that profusely flowers on new growth, I have settled on a compact informal upright design, with well defined pads,, with air space between the pads.
I have not done too much as to cutting all the necessary branches, since the health of the plant which was dug out not so long ago is of paramount importance at the moment, and the fact that our winter is just starting, and not much growth is to be expected.
Considering the fact that roots can still grow above 10 degree C, I expect a well established root system by September when our spring starts. I would then allow the first flush of growth, to replenish the food reserves of the plant, and later reduce the two very large branches remaining.
So far I removed only branch 3 and 4 at the base and curved the area.
You might be wondering what is that lamp of clay, where the branch was cut. A friend of mine uses a lamp of clay after chopping, and after few trials, the cut callused much faster, with the clay applied.

Of prime consideration now is the health of the tree...only few branches had leaves. I am still trying to save some of the branches that were cracked to the base almost, before reducing them, and waiting for them to buck bud before deciding where to cut them, since on one side a big sliver of cambium and bark are missing.

Three quarter update:
Initially the tree was left to grow and recover from the transplanting shock.

The next step was to remove some unwanted branches and cover them with African cut paste, (lump of clay) that works very well for me, on large cuts compared to the Japanese cut paste I have used.

After the tree has recovered it was repotted in summer. Bougainvillea prefers to have warm weather when repotted. At the same time all large branches were reduced drastically, in order to create movement and taper.
During the repot I discovered that there were only 3 large roots going vertically. I reduced them within reason and decided after the tree recovers to ground layer it.
Since I did not want to stress the tree with so many procedures, I decided to use a less invasive technique, than ring barking, and I drilled holes around the diameter of the trunk and applied root hormone and tooth picks. The section was covered with bonsai mix.
The large branches that were cut back budded very well, and as a result shoots were selected for continuation of the primary branches and some left to heal the cut surfaces. Ones the new branches are established well and lignified, I shall carve the end sections of the large branches to make them more aesthetically pleasing.
Ones the new branches showed signs of lignifying they were wired in to position and allowed to grow. Also some sacrifice branches will be used to allow them to thicken in proportion to the lower section and the trunk.
I need a lower right branch and for that, I have prepared a large cutting that I airlayered and plan to graft on the right the way my Oyakata Urushibata from Taisho en thought me to, By drilling a hole in the trunk and inserting the branch so the cambium of the two matches, while the branch is still supported by its own roots.
Lets hope it will work, since I have never seen it done on a bougie, and bougie is infamous for it rotting abilities, and slow healing of wounds. In any case I have planted it in a very large container to promote grows which will assist with this technique.

The tree has grown very well after the repot. The ground layer looks very promising, and some roots are developing..
The tree was allowed to grow. The branches need to be thickened, and for that reason they were only wired but not cut back. Internodes on this variety of bougie are couple of mm apart, and back budding is very strong. Some buds had to be rubbed off.
All flowers were removed, in order to allow the tree to concentrate on growth. Some leaves at the base of the branches were also removed to assist with the wiring.
Second round of wiring was done few days ago to avoid the wires biting in.
The movement to the branches was applied only on the first 5 cm from their beginning since they will be cut back hard. So the long extensions pointing somewhat upwards should be ignored.
leader at the top was also left to grow and fatten.
Top branches in the apex were cut back, to avoid them over thickening.
Future of the tree:
I need one branch on the right as second primary branch. I am still investigating the possibility of grafting a huge branch on the right, but just in case that will be unadvisable, I wired a long branch from the left and left it to thicken near where it needs to be approach grafted.
I need to find out from people who have done grafting on bougies or try it on an expendable tree first, since I would not like to leave a huge hole, gaping hole, just in case the branch does not take.
Fusing the small branch with approach grafting will not be a problem Branches naturally fuse on bougies. As long as the branch is lignified first before approach grafted, chances are very high. Considering the fact that bougies have very brittle branches ones lignified, this branch had to be wired into exact position while very young and soft.
I need to heal lots of wounds and that is not an easy task with bougies. But I would prefer to accomplish that since they have very soft easy to rot wood.
For that I would need to promote vigorous growth, and only cut back the branches ones they have thickened enough.
Apex and branches ramification needs to be done also.
Ones the leader is cut back I know I will get lots of back budding bellow on the trunk, especially if I defoliate at the same time. That will be done as soon as spring starts to get maximum back budding.
Techniques .used:
Clip and grow, wiring, carving ground layering sealing of wounds and in the future grafting.
Thanks to the organisers and judges, and success to the rest of the competitors.

[Neli]

I dug this plant from my old farm on 10 01 2013. They were 3 plants like a clamp.I grew them from cuttings, in packets...and the roots escaped. I separated them, and reduced the long branches. Planted it directly in the ground. It did not skip a bit and budded shortly. It had very little roots when I dug it out.
Unfortunately, this is the only tree I have not found a single bonsai made from, so it will be a challenge. It has small/medium leaf and it is a very easy plant to grow. So I shall learn how it performs as bonsai on it.
Found some other varieties of vitex but Not too sure if they are similar in requirements, since they look totally different. Apparently is the most popular plant for bonsai in Thailand:
The plant is apparently very sensitive to temperature changes and root disturbance.
Link: http://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/t382-vitex-quinata
Found some vitex on Walter Pall's travel blog, but no info what so ever, and again different variety.
I have not decided how I would style it, but I see there will be lots of curving which I enjoy a lot. The problem I see here is that there is no tapper what so ever and that will be the biggest challenge, to overcome. I guess there will be needed some very creative curving...
Main aim for now is to make it grow and develop good root system so I can repot it in the spring and start working on it.
Meanwhile I shall trim the huge old and the new branches so that they can be used in the future design, without disturbing much the development of the plant.

Up to the end of winter the tree was left to recover. Our winters are warm so root development is still possible.
End of winter the tree was dug out and the smaller branches were reduced in order to lighten the load on the roots, after the transplant. All large roots were reduced very close to the trunk, and all cuts were covered with sulphur.
All leaders were left as they were in order to facilitate thickening.
Unfortunately. one of the large branches (top right) developed a crack and dried up.
The tree was left to recover in the shade.
I dont have the rest of the text for the submissions







I did not finish carving it

[Neli]

This entry I withdrew...My dog chewed a big branch, but it grew well after that.

[kcpoole]

I like the trunk and top section on that one
Nice movement and taper into the second section from trunk.

Ken

[xtolord]

You have such wonderful material
Thick trunks, huge taper
I'm usually stuck with thin sticks as materials :/

Here are a quick snap of my entries : http://maubonsai.blogspot.com/2014/05/r ... award.html

[xtolord]

ofbonsai site is back online

[Neli]

I like the trunk and top section on that one
Nice movement and taper into the second section from trunk.

Ken

Which one Ken?
The bougie?
X, thanks...so I wasted my time posting them for nothing???