Japanese Maple choices - Beginer

[Haydenmc]

Nice old stock, but definitely not a trident, looks like standard Japanese maple.

[squizzy]

Agree with Hayden. Def a Japanese maple. Not a trident. Looks like great stock well done.

Squizz

[shibui]

OK Homer,
First you will need to appreciate that it is difficult to design a tree just based on a few small 2D photos. Much easier to assess options when you can see the whole thing in 3D.

Your choice of shape appears to be leaning toward Broom style. That is fine with a Japanese maple. When making a broom style tree try to leave more than just 2 main branches. The 2 you have chosen are great but see if you can also leave another one, thinner if possible, moving toward the back to give some depth to the tree.
Also cut the branch you have showed to the right back quite hard. You will need all the branches to produce new shoots so there will be some ramification - you need lots of small branches and twigs to make the canopy of the tree and they need to start dividing not too far above the first fork.
After that it will be a matter of feeding so it grows and regular trimming to make it produce more and more shoots to fill the canopy.
Just a word of caution. Japanese maples make lovely bonsai but they are not as easy as tridents to style. You will have to learn relatively advanced pruning techniques to maintain this as a good bonsai. Hope you have found a club. They will have members who can help point you in the right direction.

[xIIRevoEvoS]

I agree with others that its not a Trident Maple, where did you buy the tree from exactly?

[Homer911]

Oh, I'm sure they told me it was a Trident. I got it from South Bonsai.

Yeah, I forgot to colour in blue the third branch I would keep. And it is at the back. I think I will have to do really heavy pruning.

I will try to verify what type of maple it is, this may help me.

Unfortunately I can't commit to a club at the minute. I know this would help me a lot, maybe next year.

[Homer911]

OK, here is the rear branch I was talking about. This is a view from the side. It will need a lot of thickening.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429958304.728123.jpg

[Boics]

Homer.
You seem to be uncertain about the species still?
Mate that is a Japanese Not trident maple.
No two ways about it.

Trident / tri = 3.

Trident leaves are 3 pointed.
Yours are more.

[xIIRevoEvoS]

Homer,
http://kuromatsubonsai.com/wp-content/u ... _61401.jpg Trident Maple
We know what Tridents look like and there are different types of trident which have 3 point.
100% certain that its a Japanese Maple and like others have said its not a trident maple. I too own 4 types of trident maple and they all have 3 points. 2 of them are from Ray Nesci which are cultivated and the other 2 are Taiwan Maple/typical trident maple specie.
Who did you speak to at BS, was it a lady that you spoke to or a one of the gardeners? Unless you misheard or thought it was a trident maple with the tree that you got now which is a Japanese Maple.

[Homer911]

OK, thanks folks. I realise I do not have a trident but a Japanese maple.

Am I good to cut back when the leaves drop?


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[shibui]

You can prune any maples at any time of year but it is easier to see what you are doing when they have no leaves. I try to avoid hard pruning in autumn because it often forces new shoots to grow that then have to cope with winter - won't really harm the tree but I do like to see them have some dormancy to keep a natural cycle.
The other time I try to avoid is spring just before the buds start to grow because I have found that Japanese maples 'bleed' excessively at that time. Japanese maples often weep a bit of sap(?) after pruning at any time of year but usually stop after a few hours. Root pruning seems to stop any bleeding almost immediately so if the cuts continue to bleed and you are worried just repot the tree. Looks like it could do with a transplant anyway.

My preferred time for hard pruning Japanese maples here is soon after leaf fall up to mid winter so I'd say go for it.

[Homer911]

Thanks all for the useful info guys. Great site by the way. Loads of info.

Do you think that the large branches are too large to train downwards. I know that wire wouldn't suffice but I could use a turnbuckle style jobbie. What do ya reckon??

[peterb]

Hi Homer
it depends on what you're trying to achieve, if you're trying to make an informal upright with a single trunk and the branches going off from there then no you cannot bend them , maples are to brittle once they get to even 1/2 that thickness. If you;re going to try a broom style well then i think you might be able to move them a little , but i cannot see why you would want to because you will be cutting back fairly hard to start putting taper into the branches and you can then shape the shoots when they are young. Mate it sounds like you're itching to start doing something with your tree , might i suggest you buy 1 or 2 cheaper starters and a slightly larger pot for each , pot them up and wire them etc and leave this tree for awhile till you have looked at some trees , read a bit and have a bit more experience as this is good stock you have here Glad you like the forum, you can cetainly learn a lot from the guys and gals on here , good having you on board.
regards
peterb

[Homer911]

Hi Homer
it depends on what you're trying to achieve, if you're trying to make an informal upright with a single trunk and the branches going off from there then no you cannot bend them , maples are to brittle once they get to even 1/2 that thickness. If you;re going to try a broom style well then i think you might be able to move them a little , but i cannot see why you would want to because you will be cutting back fairly hard to start putting taper into the branches and you can then shape the shoots when they are young. Mate it sounds like you're itching to start doing something with your tree , might i suggest you buy 1 or 2 cheaper starters and a slightly larger pot for each , pot them up and wire them etc and leave this tree for awhile till you have looked at some trees , read a bit and have a bit more experience as this is good stock you have here Glad you like the forum, you can cetainly learn a lot from the guys and gals on here , good having you on board.
regards
peterb

Can you tell I'm eager??? Ha ha : )

I think the informal upright cannot be achieved with this due to the forking branches.

I'm just a little concerned that the branches are too thick & all pointing upwards. Maybe I could grow further branches on the sides to fill the tree outline.

[shibui]

I think the informal upright cannot be achieved with this due to the forking branches.

Nothing is impossible. To achieve informal upright just cut off all thick branches just leaving the trunk shape then make new branches from the shoots that will grow in spring. Also note that Japanese maple are often styled with rising branches because that is how they grow naturally.

However I think you will be more comfortable with broom style. That means all branches are upright with smaller ones spreading out and up to fill in the umbrella shaped canopy. The main branches you have are ok for the base of the branching but you will have to cut them all quite short because that is the best way to get them to sprout new shoots that will make all the smaller branches of the canopy.

[Homer911]

Thanks shibui, I think your right about the broom style though. Here is my cutting plan and then allow it to grow new branches for a couple of years.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430383642.482454.jpg