When to attempt the tourniquet technique

Homer911 · Post by **Homer911** » April 7th, 2016, 9:12 pm

I am interested in trying out the tourniquet technique on a few trees.

I have never tried it before and was wondering when would be the ideal time to carry it out? Im thinking and time in the growing season.

I have a few maples, chinese elms, figs that need bigger feet.

Obviously the trees need to be healthy to carry out this technique otherwise it may stress it out too much.

Summer?? Spring???

shibui · Post by **shibui** » April 7th, 2016, 9:22 pm

I think there are several versions of tourniquet.
1. just tightens a wire around the bark and relies on the tree growing to constrict growth and initiate roots so it will take some time to get your layer rooted but plenty of time to feed the tree and get it healthy.
2. involves a very narrow ringbark with wire tightened in the thin groove where bark has been removed. The wire should stop the callus from healing over the cut and re-establishing normal sap flow therefore callus and roots should form even though the cut was only very narrow. This should produce roots as quick as normal wide ringbark layer technique but will be more reliable.

You should be able to use any layer technique any time of year. roots will form quicker in spring/ summer but I think I remember an article saying that winter was better for wire in groove layer on beech in Japan - I think it related to better nebari?

literati79 · Post by **literati79** » April 10th, 2016, 11:06 am

Hi Homer. Just wanting to clarify. Is this for air layering or for trunk fattening?

Trees grow most vigorously in Spring. A good time for these sorts of projects. That said, girdling is a risky business and if carried out when the tree is in full vigour, it would be wise to check the wire very frequently. Hope that helps a bit.

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Homer911 · Post by **Homer911** » April 10th, 2016, 11:20 am

shibui wrote:I think there are several versions of tourniquet.
1. just tightens a wire around the bark and relies on the tree growing to constrict growth and initiate roots so it will take some time to get your layer rooted but plenty of time to feed the tree and get it healthy.
2. involves a very narrow ringbark with wire tightened in the thin groove where bark has been removed. The wire should stop the callus from healing over the cut and re-establishing normal sap flow therefore callus and roots should form even though the cut was only very narrow. This should produce roots as quick as normal wide ringbark layer technique but will be more reliable.

You should be able to use any layer technique any time of year. roots will form quicker in spring/ summer but I think I remember an article saying that winter was better for wire in groove layer on beech in Japan - I think it related to better nebari?

Thanks shibui, yeah i was looking at performing the wire around the trunk without the ring bark. I will read up on this a little further to see how risky it is for my tree.

Homer911 · Post by **Homer911** » April 10th, 2016, 11:22 am

literati79 wrote:Hi Homer. Just wanting to clarify. Is this for air layering or for trunk fattening?

Trees grow most vigorously in Spring. A good time for these sorts of projects. That said, girdling is a risky business and if carried out when the tree is in full vigour, it would be wise to check the wire very frequently. Hope that helps a bit.

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Its for neither. I want to create a new nebari that is all at the same level and girth. I have two huge roots on a maple that just dont look great and i want to start from scratch.

Homer911 · Post by **Homer911** » April 10th, 2016, 11:27 am

This young girls youtube video shows the technique very clearly. I think she has a follow up video too.

https://youtu.be/Q2v2mB_vr6U

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literati79 · Post by **literati79** » April 10th, 2016, 11:49 am

Any pictures of the trees homer?

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literati79 · Post by **literati79** » April 10th, 2016, 11:54 am

I see what you mean now. Wasn't sure.

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Homer911 · Post by **Homer911** » April 10th, 2016, 2:45 pm

I'll upload some pics tomorrow.

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Bonsaiforest · Post by **Bonsaiforest** » April 10th, 2016, 9:13 pm

Would tourniquet method work well on a "flowering cherry" that has a really poor nebari ...? & being deciduous when would be best to carry this procedure...?

Homer911 · Post by **Homer911** » April 12th, 2016, 7:35 pm

Here are a couple of my trees that I would like to perform the tourniquet technique on

literati79 · Post by **literati79** » April 14th, 2016, 8:14 pm

I quite like the nebari on the elm. Keep us posted on your results. Wouldn't mind giving this a go myself on a few trees.

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shibui · Post by **shibui** » April 14th, 2016, 8:30 pm

What do you hope to achieve with the tourniquet method on these trees Homer?
I see you already have an air layer on the elm so maybe you are trying to do more than just make a new tree?
More info on what you think this will achieve could influence our advice.

Homer911 · Post by **Homer911** » April 15th, 2016, 9:18 pm

I am air layering the elm so I would not be performing the tourniquet method on this until the top comes off. All I want to do to these trees is increase the root flare/create a totally new set of nebari.

The medium maple has two huge roots on either side that I dislike and want to create a even radial root system. The same for the swampie, it has only one large root that is not pleasing to the eye.

Is this not a great idea??? Is there something I'm missing?

NAHamilton · Post by **NAHamilton** » April 15th, 2016, 9:41 pm

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