AusBonsai

I tried the air layer and gave up. Not sure if the chop was correct but the back budding was amazing great tree I think for a novice to try out on. I cut it about 6 months ago. Question to all what would you do from here. Its still rooted in the original pot.

Sent from my GT-S5300 using Tapatalk 2

raewynk wrote:I tried the air layer and gave up. Not sure if the chop was correct but the back budding was amazing great tree I think for a novice to try out on. I cut it about 6 months ago. Question to all what would you do from here. Its still rooted in the original pot.

Sent from my GT-S5300 using Tapatalk 2

Hi Rae,
A couple of questions if I may.

• In a couple of the photos there is a brown mark down the top of the trunk. Is this damaged bark?
  Are you feeding the tree, if so what fertilizer are you using?

Regards Ray

Hi Ray M,

when I cut the trunk I put the sealer on the top and since I cut it, I guess you could only call the fluid sap leaking. I have sealed a couple of times and it still happens.
The ficus was originally I believe around 8 - 10 years old so they told me.
Whether that had much to do with it not sure?
I was contemplating putting a bag over it or some plastic??? Is this viable??

pity the back shooting is so low
Near the top of the cut would have been much better as you will have to cut back to the highest shoot

Ken

raewynk wrote:Hi
Ray M,

when I cut the trunk I put the sealer on the top and since I cut it, I
guess you could only call the fluid sap leaking. I have sealed a couple
of times and it still happens.
The ficus was originally I believe around 8 - 10 years old so they told
me.
Whether that had much to do with it not sure?
I was contemplating putting a bag over it or some plastic??? Is this
viable??

Hi rae,
Just as a starter, I would cut the trunk back to the top of the fused root. You need to spray the cut with water, this may require several applications of water before the sap will stop. After the sap has stopped I would use Kiyonal S1006 to seal the cut. Give the tree a lot of fertilizer to see if you can get some new shoots on the top of the trunk.
Regards Ray

Ray M wrote:
Kiyonal S1006

Regards Ray

So that's what the squiggly lines on the tube say.

Thank you sir!

HI Ray M and all,
Ray you said to cut back to the top of the fused root. Is this in reference to last picture, the cross over of the trunks or lower down.
Below the new growth.
Just need to clarify, sorry, being blonde at the moment.

Cheers
Rae

All advice appreciated for the learning curb. For me and all others that read. I bow and say thank you to you all.

raewynk wrote:HI Ray M and all,
Ray you said to cut back to the top of the fused root. Is this in reference to last picture, the cross over of the trunks or lower down.
Below the new growth.
Just need to clarify, sorry, being blonde at the moment.

Cheers
Rae

All advice appreciated for the learning curb. For me and all others that read. I bow and say thank you to you all.

Hi Rae,
Sorry I haven't answered you sooner, I've been away for a few days.
I've added a photo showing where I think it may be worth giving a try. When you make the cut, cut straight across, not at an angle. When you have new leaders growing you can choose an appropriate one and cut at an angle behind it. From your photos it appears that you have a reverse taper from where the line is. If this is so, cutting there will remove the taper. Don't forget to give it plenty of fertilizer.
Regards Ray

thanks Ray for the clarification.

I really need to buy your book.

where you have put the line through. You see the natural fork of the intertwined. I light bulbed an idea of cutting down in a v shape and trying to push the two together and getting them to graft?? Any ideas on whether this would be possible.

I have contemplated and contemplated for 9 months before I chopped and now I contemplate again.

I agree with all that it should be shorter to the ground.

Regards
Rae

raewynk wrote:thanks Ray for the clarification.

I really need to buy your book.

where you have put the line through. You see the natural fork of the intertwined. I light bulbed an idea of cutting down in a v shape and trying to push the two together and getting them to graft?? Any ideas on whether this would be possible. Being a Fig I think that would work fine. If you can get the cambiums to match that would be a great asset. You will need to bind them very firmly together. If you can do that, you should get healing much quicker, and during the healing process you don't want them to be pushed apart or that will defeat your intention.

I have contemplated and contemplated for 9 months before I chopped and now I contemplate again. Good on you mate. I commend you for putting in the effort. This is certainly the way to learn. Reading and advice is most definitely helpful, but practice is what will stick with you.

I agree with all that it should be shorter to the ground.

Regards
Rae

Regards Ray

Ray

To bind them together when I get their I would use ???? as a binding material. I didn't want to scar the bark.
Twine, tape though I don't think that would have the strength that I would need.

Any suggestions anyone?

Cheers all
Rae

raewynk wrote:Ray

To bind them together when I get their I would use ???? as a binding material. I didn't want to scar the bark.
Twine, tape though I don't think that would have the strength that I would need.

Any suggestions anyone?

Cheers all
Rae

Hi Rae,
Somewhat difficult to answer without seeing the tree. If the sides can be pulled together reasonably easily after you cut the V there are a couple of possibilities. When I am trying to protect bark, and I need to do some heavy wiring, I use some under-felt and place this around the area where the wire would be locked before wiring up the branch/trunk etc. You could possibly use some under-felt and bind it with some substantial wire ties. Another method that is used is to screw the two sides. I would use stainless steel screws. Make the hole on the side that you put the screw through about the diameter of the screw, then let the screw bit into the other side. This allows the two sides to be pulled together more easily. If you use a counter sunk screw the head will eventually be overgrown by the bark. You will have to make a final decision based on how easy the sides can be pulled together.

Regards Ray

Cheers Ray,

for the advice, I will keep the posting coming when I manage to get to it.

Regards
Rae

Finally cut today and put in strainer to stabilize for a few months.
Long job.
Cheers
Rae

Not sure if you've seen this thread on trunk chopping, but Steven revived it earlier today.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8312