AusBonsai

Update,

Now also stocking 1kg and 1/2 kg rolls of Japanese Aluminium Wire.

Plus Kiyonal Cut Paste and Japanese Putty(Green Lid).

All able to be posted.

Grant

Hi all,

New stock of Copper has arrived and all sizes in stock.

Grant

Hi all,

Just back from Japan and Shanghai. Great trip with Shuji in Japan and visited many nurseries. Saw the Shanghai Penjing collection before we got to Japan.

I am now more convinced than ever that copper is the way to go with all conifers for best results. All my conifers, including Cedars, are setting after one application of copper compared to the usual bounce back after aluminium.

Allow the copper to lightly bite in for best results as well; the bark will heal quickly and invisibly as long as it does not cut in more than half the thickness of the wire; where you would have difficulty removing it without damage.

Good stock of copper (and aluminium) in stock.

I am also taking delivery this week of very heavy duty, Japanese made plastic turntables suitable for both workshops and for under big bonsai. The larger one is rectangular 40cm x 30cm and weighs approx 2 1/2 kgs. I saw them in use in Japan on my trip.

Grant

Photos at the club meeting Grant? Or here, I'm easy... We expect full documentation to all stakeholders, with addenda, agenda, jargon, blithering, bibliographies, biosphere impact analysis statements and beer count. This being Canberra.

Gavin

Grant Bowie wrote:I am now more convinced than ever that copper is the way to go with all conifers for best results. All my conifers, including Cedars, are setting after one application of copper compared to the usual bounce back after aluminium.

Just curious... if both aluminium and copper are able to hold position until biting (all be it needing to use thicker aluminium), why would bounce back be material dependant?

wrcmad wrote:

Grant Bowie wrote:I am now more convinced than ever that copper is the way to go with all conifers for best results. All my conifers, including Cedars, are setting after one application of copper compared to the usual bounce back after aluminium.

Just curious... if both aluminium and copper are able to hold position until biting (all be it needing to use thicker aluminium), why would bounce back be material dependant?

Don't know; just does. Some trees react to the biting in and bend up in a curling motion(Mugo pine for instance) and the aluminium cannot resist the action whereas the copper holds it firm.

Copper just seems to work better; an observation.

Those of you who have had problems with cedars give it a go.

Wiring is a mixture of art and science. You want to use as little as possible, for the artistic side, but it still needs to do the job. Some people wire very badly with wire too closely coiled and the wrong size; thus the wire cuts in too early; it has to be removed too early and the branch does not set.

If you use copper you can wire much further apart and a bit looser; by the time the wire bites in the branch puts on girth and sets.


Grant

G'day Grant,
What is the purpose of 'anealing' the wire?
Does it make it softer or harder?


Cheers
EZ
Via Tapatalk

CoGRedeMptioN wrote:G'day Grant,
What is the purpose of 'anealing' the wire?
Does it make it softer or harder?


Cheers
EZ
Via Tapatalk

My understanding(imperfect) is that it softens the all bare copper by orienting the the structure of the atom in a linear manner. This makes it easy to use and apply to the tree.Bending and applying the wire heats/stresses it slightly and the atoms/structure changes/reorients making it stiff and thereby locking the wire into the new position. Over time(about 3 to 4 months in my observation) the wire really hardens into its new position. It is also much firmer when you cut it off if that is what you do.

To re-anneal the wire you can straighten and reheat(kiln/fire etc) the wire; but I don't believe it is ever as good as the first time and eventually will have weak and strong areas and be unsatisfactory for re use. If it is reused and re-annealed many times I believe it turns to powder.

I never re use copper heavier than about no 16 or at a stretch no 14.

Grant

Grant, do you do mail order to Melbourne ?

Brian wrote:Grant, do you do mail order to Melbourne ?

Yes, I have multiple times.

Also i will most likely be coming down for the native show.

PM with prices and sizes sent.

Grant

Grant Bowie wrote: My understanding(imperfect) is that it softens the all bare copper by orienting the the structure of the atom in a linear manner. This makes it easy to use and apply to the tree.Bending and applying the wire heats/stresses it slightly and the atoms/structure changes/reorients making it stiff and thereby locking the wire into the new position. Over time(about 3 to 4 months in my observation) the wire really hardens into its new position. It is also much firmer when you cut it off if that is what you do

Correct. When you flex copper, the imperfections in the atomic crystal structure move through the crystal lattice easily, allowing the metal to be malleable. These imperfections move until they hit a grain boundary, whereby they can't travel anymore, and the metal becomes stiff. More flexing will cause the metal to start to fracture.

When heated (annealed) the atomic structure rearranges itself into a low stress formation, and the crystal structure becomes "reset", ready to be deformed again. However, any fractures from previous bending do not repair themselves during the annealing process.

Grant Bowie wrote:

wrcmad wrote:

Grant Bowie wrote:I am now more convinced than ever that copper is the way to go with all conifers for best results. All my conifers, including Cedars, are setting after one application of copper compared to the usual bounce back after aluminium.

Just curious... if both aluminium and copper are able to hold position until biting (all be it needing to use thicker aluminium), why would bounce back be material dependant?

Don't know; just does. Some trees react to the biting in and bend up in a curling motion(Mugo pine for instance) and the aluminium cannot resist the action whereas the copper holds it firm.

Copper just seems to work better; an observation.

Those of you who have had problems with cedars give it a go.

Wiring is a mixture of art and science. You want to use as little as possible, for the artistic side, but it still needs to do the job. Some people wire very badly with wire too closely coiled and the wrong size; thus the wire cuts in too early; it has to be removed too early and the branch does not set.

If you use copper you can wire much further apart and a bit looser; by the time the wire bites in the branch puts on girth and sets.


Grant

Thanks!

Grant Bowie wrote:Update,

Now also stocking 1kg and 1/2 kg rolls of Japanese Aluminium Wire.

Plus Kiyonal Cut Paste and Japanese Putty(Green Lid).

All able to be posted.

Grant

Hi Grant,
Just wonding how much you charge for the kiyonal cut paste, as well as how much it would cost to get posted to Melbourne? I live in Williamstown 3016.
Cheers, Pearcy.

Bah! Was meant to PM that. You win this time Taptalk...

Pearcy001 wrote:Bah! Was meant to PM that. You win this time Taptalk...

PM Sent. PM Sent.