AusBonsai

Scott Roxburgh wrote:How much root work did you do? Raking? or do you only recommend for established root pads?

I had to take about 50 percent off the trident to fit it into the pot, but less of the Corky bark elm, Chinese elm, Larch and Beech. More than 50 percent off the Taxodium mucronatum.

Uncoiled and cut off long roots, rake then light trim around the edge and light work underneath. Just a regular repot.

Grant

Interesting, I was thinking it would have been a lighter repot.

My concern was changing to an Autumn repot would forgo the good technique of raking and arranging roots radially. Good to see Shibui's advice confirmed by another good grower too.

You don't have any pics of the rootball just prior to potting do you?

Scott Roxburgh wrote:Interesting, I was thinking it would have been a lighter repot.

My concern was changing to an Autumn repot would forgo the good technique of raking and arranging roots radially. Good to see Shibui's advice confirmed by another good grower too.

You don't have any pics of the rootball just prior to potting do you?

No. just did it. The Trident had put on a lot of growth.

A huge chop/scar at the top of the tree had almost healed over after only one season. I had left some branches to elongate but cut them short after I broke the pot.
Major cut had been "Double Sealed".

Grant

One week later the Trident is in 90% full sun and did not lose or damage one leaf,
The Chinese Elm was always in about80% full sun and is doing fine,
The Corky bark elm is doing fine; looks fab in its new pot.( I am considering importing a pallet or two of Tokoname pots; anyone interested?) It is still in a shaded spot for another week and then into 90% full sun.(Mesh cage provides some shade of maybe 10%).
Will trim all the trees once they go deciduous in about 2 to 3 months time. The Elm may keep its leaves longer and so I would trim back anyhow around late June if it does not self shed.

Grant

Hi Grant
Just a question, is it necessary to trim long growth back when you do a repot now , as i'm growing some shoots long to thread graft on my japanese maple . I want to do this when the tree goes dormant but the tree needs a repot as it's getting a bit potbound . I live in Adelaide and the winters are reasonably mild( day temps 9 - 15 deg C and night 2 - 7 albeit a bit wet) . so if i'm going to repot in autumn should i do it now to give time for roots to establish again before it gets rainy and wet .
regards
peterb

peterb wrote:Hi Grant
Just a question, is it necessary to trim long growth back when you do a repot now , as i'm growing some shoots long to thread graft on my japanese maple . I want to do this when the tree goes dormant but the tree needs a repot as it's getting a bit potbound . I live in Adelaide and the winters are reasonably mild( day temps 9 - 15 deg C and night 2 - 7 albeit a bit wet) . so if i'm going to repot in autumn should i do it now to give time for roots to establish again before it gets rainy and wet .
regards
peterb

No need to trim back growth and you could do a light repot now or in a month.

Grants

Hi Grant
thanks for that advice
regards
peterb

Hi Grant
Could you tell us what you are using as dressing gravel and where do you get it from. I think it looks great.

Regards

Ron

I use a brown Scoria from QLD,
A so called 3mm brown pebble from Sydney,
A mix that looks like Aquarium mix (white and pale mix) from Melbourne
A 3mm gold from Nthn NSW,
Decomposed granite from Canberra,
And Carnarvon gravel from WA..

If I see a pebble I like I just purchase and file it for future use.

Grant

Update.

5 weeks later the tree has started to colour with the approaching cool weather. It is doing fine.
As well as working on my trees I have been installing/building/expanding shelving for my pots.
All other trees, deciduous, conifer and semi evergreen(Taxodium mucronatum) that have undergone autumn repotting are doing fine as well.

Grant