AusBonsai

Okay!
I think maybe I might try my hand at a root prune. I have to learn soon and why not do it on a strong hardy (inexpensive) tree.

Any really great posts or tutorials on beginner root pruning/ cutting and repotting?


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bonsai_beginner wrote:Okay!
I think maybe I might try my hand at a root prune. I have to learn soon and why not do it on a strong hardy (inexpensive) tree.

Any really great posts or tutorials on beginner root pruning/ cutting and repotting?


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Think the link below is the Shibui post that was mentioned by someone earlier, it's pretty comprehensive.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18188&start=0&hilit ... g+tridents

Have fun!

Thank you!

Especially loved the link to bonsaisensation's tutorial on root pruning and reporting. Very helpful and insightful. I had no idea soo much root mass can be safely removed from a tree! Definitely saved that one in my browser for later referencing!


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It's important to note that Shibui did this in winter when it's usual to root prune deciduous trees. May be safer to do a light root prune now and leave the drastic root prune until next winter. Also a hard prune works well with young stock and particularly tridents. It would be worth, if you haven't yet, to read the whole thread linked above.

I know this might be a silly question, but can all species be root pruned the same way? I.e. Like bonsaisensation's tutorial?



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Of course. Many will die quickly after though

Did you end up root pruning that one?

Cheers,
Nigel

Hahaha so I take that as a no, they all can't be root pruned the same way

Not really, I just sliced the bottom cm or so off and slipped it into a larger pot. I'll let it go till next winter when I'll give it a really good root pruning


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Definetly not all species can be root pruned hard. Bonsai sensations post showed normal practice for root pruning most species commonly used as bonsai and if you leave plenty of feeder roots and remove or cut short the larger roots you should be fine with most. Tridents can be cut much harder when young as shibui has demonstrated, leaving virtually no feeder roots. Some species like some of the Leptospermums need to be root pruned very lightly and under water or death will surely follow.

A good thing to keep in mind is that young plants growing vigoursly will cope with much harder root pruning and this should be done in order to produce good roots for the future of your bonsai. First get the roots right, then the trunk, then the branches and finally the foliage.

bonsai_beginner wrote:I know this might be a silly question, but can all species be root pruned the same way? I.e. Like bonsaisensation's tutorial?

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i thought i should provide some sort of response since my work was referred to.

short answer is no. correct answer is yes, to all the exotic varieties traditionally used for bonsai cultures anyway. and provided that they are root trained from young age. and at the optimal time.

i have been doing root pruning for the last 3 months and the species included: trident maple, japanese maple, japanese black pine, juniper squamata prostrata, and juniper procumbens. all were root pruned as hard as shown in my tutorial. out of 400 black pines, only 5 showed signs of stress, ie yellowing of the old needles. however, i am not worry at all as new candles are pushing through now. out of 100 juniper procumbens, only 3 showed yellowing of foliage, 30 stayed as they were, and the rest is pushing good growth.

it is definitely risky to root prune as hard as i did(at least 90% of the original root mass), but i felt comfortable enough with my understanding of how tree works to do it. the question then becomes: why do people root prune that hard? i have my reasons, i am eager to learn what others have to say about this subject.


regards


Tien

Thank you both!
The reason I'm asking is basically for when I begin root pruning some of the ficus' I have over the next couple of months. I was wondering how much to take off these.

By the way, Bonsaisensation, your video was very helpful and informative. Thank you



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OK..here is a dumb question. So how much is too much root pruning and de-foliage for a healthy trident maple in spring and summer? De-foliage twice or three times and root once?

David

I don't know the answer to that David. I'm just starting to explore the root pruning in growing season aspect. Adding defoliation to it will add many more combinations and complexity. I do not do much defoliating anyway. I find that proper pinching and pruning gives me good results with leaf reduction. Occasionally I use partial defoliation to balance strength.

Incidentally, I may have killed a trident this spring with a massive root prune. Not sure where I put the photos but if I find them I'll post a few.

From what I've read a lot of people usually say to avoid a defoliation after a root prune. They usually leave it a bit to allow the tree to recover

I've never tried it, again I'm a beginner so this is just from the reading I have done


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I believe defoliage leafs during growing season helps to shape next year's buds. It lets sunlight through to inner branches and help the structure of branches (softer looking). I am talking from experience as I just defoliaged a good 60% of my trident maple. You will see the impact of not defoliage as inner leafs are turning yellow because energy is distributed to the outside of the tree. That's my 2 cents.

David

bonsai_beginner wrote:Thank you both!
The reason I'm asking is basically for when I begin root pruning some of the ficus' I have over the next couple of months. I was wondering how much to take off these.

By the way, Bonsaisensation, your video was very helpful and informative. Thank you



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with the ficus you can go quite hard in terms of root pruning. i used to root prune them over winter ( yes i know..) and took off easily 70-80% of the root mass, and it would come back with a lot of vigour during spring time. though, i did take off maybe 1/3 of the foliage too just to be safe.