AusBonsai

Thanks Kevin

Yes, I think I agree, the wide angle (this time with the ipad,) can be a little off-putting. I've just got to take the proper camera out, as you say, and try it with a decent focal length, with an easily recognisable object for scale. For interest, the height of the pot is 200mm, and the tree is another 400mm.

I shot this again this morning, with ipad, before heading out for the day, so I'll leave them there til I get proper images.

You're right about the two longest branches, they aren't too far apart from each other, but I've pushed the longer lower one around to the back a little, using Anthony's suggested front, and hopefully when I can prune them to the desired length they'll not look so wild and wooly.

Yes, I'll be attempting to bring the apex over too, hopefully as my knowledge on wiring without breaking improves.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

Cheers

Looking good Mel,

I can 'see' your tree a lot better in these images.
The extra work you've done also helps and what I'm seeing is impressive.
I can see your little tree will soon be a Bonsai.

Well Done,
Kevin

Hi Mel
Well done Mel,I put pressure on you and you performed very well mate,sorry about that.. lol...Okay but you not finished yet..haha There is one spot irking me and it is the Apex,just could be camera angle,it looks very straightish getting to there from last branch,if it is not the camera angle,then needs to be crooked a bit/bent other words,but you have done enough bending Mel,but I have noticed a shoot or two between the apex and last branch.. gob smack in the right place there,so we could use that as our apex,so when long enough and still green wire to come towards viewer more (it will bring the top down little from being perched),so don't touch apex or growth let it power out,the energy going to the top will hopefully help promote it more.

Now the back branches,only if we want be very fussy they could come up a fraction,but if close to stress/breaking point leave alone.

The guy wires on the little tree,wondering why,as that part looked fine.

As with growth get it nice and lush healthy and if you find some branches leggy push back slowly.

And just another tip rotate your tree ever few weeks to main light source so foliage spreads evenly in all directions.

Once again well done,time to relax and enjoy your tree....Cheers Anthony

Ignore this Mel,its for Kevin he loves angles....top view looking down maybe/aerial..lol well done to you mate for helping Mel

Thanks Kevin and Anthony! I need to do a sketch of my own,I think, Anthony. Reckon I'm getting confused by which front to work with. I'll stick with yours, and get that apex under control. Will get into it tomorrow, and hopefully make sense of what I'm attempting by sticking to the one view.

Will also set up the proper cam and use something for scale reference.

Thanks again guys, I'm really appreciative of your help and suggestions.

Cheers

Mel

Oh well, I needed to stop messing with it anyway...

Thanks again Anthony, and Kevin, Ken and Pearcy for your input.

Hopefully in Spring I'll be able to do some meaningful pruning.

Cheers

Hello Mel,

Bugger!
Did you remember the technique in twisting the branches internal fibres while bending?

I do personally believe allowing your tree to rest over the next few months is the right decision.
Down here soil temperatures are dropping fast and allowing your deciduous trees to harvest as much nutrients as possible for storage, I believe, right now, is the smartest option for the long term development of your Myrtle Bonsai.
Are the Myrtles in Brisbane deciduous?

P.S.

melbrackstone wrote:I need to do a sketch of my own, Cheers Mel

I agree
(EDIT) Also don't feel trapped within the current parameters of your tree. You design a tree - then grow it.

Thanks,
Kevin

Bugger!
Did you remember the technique in twisting the branches internal fibres while bending?

Hi Kevin, I suspect I might have forgotten that little bit of advice at the time...

It'll do us both good to take a break, that's for sure. We've only just gotten night time temps below 20 here, so everyone's enjoying a break from the heat!

Yes, the crepe myrtles do colour and drop their leaves in autumn, another reason to like them, since we don't have many that do here in the sub-tropics. Liquidambar and Lagerstoemia are probably the best.

melbrackstone wrote:

Bugger!
Did you remember the technique in twisting the branches internal fibres while bending?

Hi Kevin, I suspect I might have forgotten that little bit of advice at the time...

I have never had much luck bending Crepe once the lignify, They are worse than Azalea fro being brittle and only minor tweaks can be accomplished. Twisting the at the same time usually breaks them just as fast. They have not flexibility at all

melbrackstone wrote:

Yes, the crepe myrtles do colour and drop their leaves in autumn, another reason to like them, since we don't have many that do here in the sub-tropics. Liquidambar and Lagerstoemia are probably the best.

these 2 species are really the best autumn colour for me here. ( added to Pin Oak).
does not get cold enough for mos6t others

I have never had much luck bending Crepe once they lignify, They are worse than Azalea fro being brittle and only minor tweaks can be accomplished. Twisting the at the same time usually breaks them just as fast. They have not flexibility at all

I must admit I'd been surprised at how much I'd been able to move the branches, up until that *crack* moment! I had only the little bit of experience with smaller crepe myrtles up til then, and found them very easy to break.

Good to know about the Pin Oak, Ken, thanks. I don't think I've ever seen one. The upside of having such a mild climate of course means we can pretty much grow things year round...

Cheers

Thought I'd update this tree, so that the progression can be recorded.

Took the tree to a carving workshop at the Brisbane International School of Bonsai mid last year, to get that ugly stump of a branch cleaned up. Meanwhile I've been clipping and growing, in an attempt to get some ramification going. Some new shoots appeared to help cover up some bare spots, but still not enough to give me back branches yet. I've left a sacrificial branch growing from the base to help thicken up the roots in the back, also because I want to see it flower! I gave it the same treatment as all my other crepe myrtles, and stopped trimming at the end of October 2016, and all the other trees have flowered....but not this one.

I've trimmed the leaves on this tree twice in the last two weeks, it's growing madly with the heatwave conditions! Hopefully I'll be able to place the pads and make do without back branches for another year...

Cool tree! I really like crepe myrtles [SMILING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]

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Thanks, me too! They really grow well here in Brisbane.

Nice colour mel.
Mine have not started yet

Ken

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Cheers Ken,

None of my other crepe myrtles are showing anything but green!

I'll keep hoping.